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dpoisson
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# Posted: 7 May 2014 12:14
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Howdy!
I'm building a simple outhouse for our hunting camp (composting toilet aka "toilette sèche". 4' square, single slope roof, with a place to sit and that's pretty much it.
I want to install a pipe so the lovely odors don't collect in the outhouse. I'm just not sure exactly how/where to install the lower end of the pipe.
- Should it be as close to the, hrm...odor's source as possible?
- Should it be above the odor's source, but below the seat so that when the seat is closed, it will have a way to espace?
Another question: How big should the pipe be? I have some left over ABS 1 1/2" pipe left...would that do or the bigger the better (4"?).
Finally, if I install a venting pipe, would I still need to have openings in the top of the walls (I was thinking of installing screen-mesh openings)?
Cheers!
David
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Gregjman
Member
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# Posted: 7 May 2014 12:22
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Commercial composting toilet or the bucket method?
With the bucket as long as you use sufficent cover material you shouldn't need to vent it with a pipe. I have a screen vent in the top of one wall and that's enough.
My box I built around the bucket has a toilet seat I close while I'm at camp. I put the bucket lid on when I leave for the week.
Anyone who uses a composting toilet correctly can attest that there is little to no residule odor.
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dpoisson
Member
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# Posted: 7 May 2014 13:54
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It'll basically be a hole in the ground with a small shed on top of it.
When you mention "cover material", are you talking about using sawdust to help composting or something else?
Cheers,
David
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wirivercabin
Member
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# Posted: 7 May 2014 14:19
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The fiberglass outhouse tanks that you can buy have the vent pipe attached right behind the seat, at the same level as the seat.
So I would say same level.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 7 May 2014 14:37
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In the vaulted toilets they install in the forests here, they use a 6or8 inch pipe to vent, and I think it's as high as can be in the stink chamber. I'd use 4 inch minimum, and I would install the screens in the upper walls, since all vaulted toilets I've used had them and still had a bit of stink despite huge vent pipes.
A vaulted toilet is just a deep concrete pit with a seat. They pump it out periodically. Instead of just a dirt pit, have you considered putting a plastic 55 gallon drum two feet in the ground, so the waste is contained? It would stop the sides caving in, and a health inspector would see at least that no sewage is getting in the dirt, which they don't want to see. Just a thought.
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dpoisson
Member
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# Posted: 7 May 2014 14:41
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bldginsp: Yes, I didn't specify the details, since that part I understand well, but that's what we were planning to do. But thanks for bringing it up!
I guess we can't over ventilate it, right? Better safe than sorry.
David
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 7 May 2014 15:07 - Edited by: bldginsp
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Yes, I think you are right, I'm no expert on these things but since you are relying on evaporation and passive movement of the air it seems like the more vent the better. Regular plumbing venting in a water system works by the active action of moving water pushing the air thru the pipes, but with nothing pushing the air except perhaps temperature differences you want as little restriction of air flow as possible
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Gregjman
Member
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# Posted: 7 May 2014 15:30
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You mentioned a composting toilet in the original post. But it sounds like your talking about a regular pit toilet.
Cover material is for composting.
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rayyy
Member
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# Posted: 7 May 2014 20:36
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5 gallon bucket toilet,take it out back to the compost bin every morning,dump it,3 fresh wood shavings hand full's and your good to go for another day!
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 7 May 2014 23:20
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Add lime to keep things broken down too.
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Don_P
Member
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# Posted: 8 May 2014 07:55 - Edited by: Don_P
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Yes, Vent the seat box, screen that vent to keep flies out, screen the house walls. We kept a trashcan full of ashes and a scoop in the little shack out back. While sitting like a snowbird on it's nest, the sign crafted by my wife on the lid was visible, it said "If you tinkle add a sprinkle, if you poop add a scoop" Our pit was dug about 4' square and the walls were made from 4 treated 6x6 posts surrounded by 1x6 boards to form walls. A treated deck on top and then the room on top. Been there 30 years although it's just back in the pines for emergency use now.
I found the old one while bush hogging, they had filled it with rocks, Felt a sinking feeling a split second before the mower began to make gravel. that took out the gearbox 
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 8 May 2014 09:15
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Quoting: dpoisson Howdy! I'm building a simple outhouse for our hunting camp (composting toilet aka "toilette sèche". 4' square, single slope roof, with a place to sit and that's pretty much it.
I bought one of these brand new.
http://www.satelliteindustries.com/products/outdoor/portable-restrooms_tufway.php
I used green on the sides. You can pick different colors or combos of colors. Its fly tight, vented, urinal, screening, door hing with hardware, toilet paper holder, vent stack, opaque roof to keep it lit up. Total cost was $699. And required no labor. So total cost was a wash. Hardware building one etc can make it spendy. For me, this was super easy.
Mine was called the Tufway 150
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dpoisson
Member
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# Posted: 8 May 2014 10:00
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toyota, we were thinking of adding a urinal too, but it would of been a funnel that drains into an ABS pipe that drains into the pit 
David
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