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apray
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 17:07
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We are preparing pine tongue and groove for the interior walls of our small cabin. The boards are 8 inches wide. We are putting Watco Danish Oil on the boards, before installation, and they are drying blotchy.
We are brushing it on and wiping it off.
We chose Danish Oil because we want a natural look. We are happy with how it brings out the grain. We don't want to use any polyurethane.
What is odd is that we had no trouble with using it on pine tongue and groove that we installed on the ceiling. Maybe because it is cut with the 3 inch grooves? We also used it on rough cut black walnut for the window trim, also with no problem. We didn't even wipe that off.
Any ideas?
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apray
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 17:21
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We are also thinking about putting up the pine without putting anything on it. I saw an older post where people wrote that they were happy with the unfinished pine. Thoughts about that?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 18:31 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Pine, fir, birch, some maple and other porous woods need a pre-stain conditioner to avoid the blotchy appearance. Use the correct type for the stain (water or oil base).
I've used a lot of woods with no stain, just a clear coat. I particularly like the Miniwax Polycrylic which does NOT have a yellow cast like many others.
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apray
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 19:48
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Is there any way to fix the blotchy wood?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 20:07 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Paint.
Sorry, I couldn't resist. Stripper and/or sanding is about it as far as I know. Sometimes applying mineral spirits and then rubbing with a cloth can remove stain, but only if done before any final finish coats are applied. Also won't work if you use a stain / finish combination. You could try restaining on a sample to see what that might accomplish. The problem with pine is that the stain may have gone deep in the softer areas , making it difficult to remove all the stain.
G/L
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apray
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 20:40
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I smiled at your "paint" recommendation.
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Shadyacres
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 21:04
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I think the bad thing about using pine unfinished is trying to keep it clean.
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razmichael
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 21:08
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Quoting: MtnDon particularly like the Miniwax Polycrylic
MtnDon, what prep work do you do before using this? Satin Finish? We want to keep our pine natural looking as well but have not decided what will work well without yellowing.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 21:42
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Satin finish is what I like best. It is milky white in the can and dries crystal clear.
Prep is to sand. I use a decades old quarter sheet pad sander that has a vacuum attachment. Then I wipe the surface with a tack rag and apply the first coat. I apply a thin well brushed out coat. It dries fast in our desert climate. Then a light sanding with 220 grit. Tack rag again and a 2nd and 3rd coat on most things.
This link will take you to photos of the pine T&G ceiling with the Minwax Polycrylic
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razmichael
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 22:03
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Thanks - looks great.
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apray
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 22:11
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Thanks, mrhayes, that is great to know.
MtnDon, I love the photos. Your ceiling turned out very nice!
We are going to see how the boards look tomorrow when we return to the cabin. Keeping fingers crossed, because we don't want to start over with new boards. Building a cabin (even a tiny one) sure is a project, especially when you are doing some things yourself. A fun and rewarding project, except when things don't go so well.
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apray
Member
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 22:33
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This is what we have going:
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apray
Member
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 22:35
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Oops, sideways.
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apray
Member
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# Posted: 23 Jun 2014 13:45
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Update to the problem: We turned the sticky-spotted boards over and did it again. This time after applying the Danish oil, we wiped it dry. We also made sure to stir it thoroughly. This took care of it! I did call Watco, and the guy was very helpful. We are pleased with the result. Natural and not shiny. I will try to upload a photo later.
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