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| Author | Message | 
| Smawgunner Member
 | # Posted: 22 Dec 2014 03:56pm Reply
 
 Finally getting around to finishing the inside of the cabin. I'm starting with the upstairs. We vist every week or so. It'll be heated with a wood stove.im not sure what to use on the walls yet. I worry about moisture issues with the drastic temp changes when we fire up the stove in the winter. And of course then there are worries about mold, warping etc. I would rather work with drywall than some type of paneling...what are your thoughts on this?
 
 
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| Just Member
 | # Posted: 22 Dec 2014 06:18pm Reply
 
 dry wall or solid wood paneling only ,, composite panels will warp if not heated . been my experience
 
 
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| MtnDon Member
 | # Posted: 22 Dec 2014 06:25pm Reply
 
 We are into our 6th winter with our cabin. The interior walls are mostly 5/8 drywall. One end wall is T&G and the ceiling is all T&G.  We don't get sustained below zero temperatures but Mid December thru early March is mostly below freezing, 24/7. The drywall appears as it was when we finished it in late 2008. Ditto the T&G. We don't have high humidity most of the year so that is also a blessing. Humidity mainly occurs in July, August. It sits unheated for two to three weeks at a time in winter. Then we arrive and stoke the wood stove and turn on the propane wall heater. Two hours later it's comfortable. Then we leave and it gets very cold again. No issues for us.
 
 
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| hueyjazz Member
 | # Posted: 22 Dec 2014 07:10pm Reply
 
 Has anyone had problems with paint peeling from drywall due to cold?  I had large industrial properties where paint has shed from the walls in structures that went into deep freeze in the NE.
 I figure it might have been due to multiple layers of paint, spaces that were heated for years then not and contraction. A coat or two of latex on drywall in a cabin may not be an issue.
 So far I've resisted putting any drywall in my cabin.  But to be honest, I like the look and feel of real wood, in the woods.
 
 
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| MtnDon Member
 | # Posted: 22 Dec 2014 07:42pm Reply
 
 No peeling here.
  
 One thing we like about drywall is the ability to use Color!!
 
 
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| Smawgunner Member
 | # Posted: 22 Dec 2014 08:45pm - Edited by: Smawgunner Reply
 
 Just,...I sure hope you're wrong,..I just spent two days hanging 4panels of 1/4 inch composite beadboard on the ceiling!,, lol
 I also worry about mice chewing through the drywall if they get behind the walls.
 
 
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| Just Member
 | # Posted: 22 Dec 2014 09:17pm Reply
 
 I only ever tried 2  4 x 8 panels, they both failed but you never know that was 15 years ago it may be better now.
 
 
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| bldginsp Member
 | # Posted: 22 Dec 2014 11:05pm Reply
 
 Paper faced drywall suffers in an unconditioned space when there is high humidity. It can mold and deteriorate. So long as a building is heated and lived in this doesn't happen, but we non full timers leave our cabins unheated a lot during the moist times of year. So I decided to use the fiberglass faced gyp board products. I'm using Dens Armour for both my little guest bath and for the cabin. It's a lot more expensive, but the fiberglass facing won't mold and the gypsum formulation resists deterioration from moisture exposure.
 
 No I don't have stock in Georgia Pacific. Just trying to use a product that suits the circumstance.
 
 
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| toofewweekends Member
 | # Posted: 23 Dec 2014 02:19am Reply
 
 T&G on our ceiling and top half of walls. 1/2" painted plywood run horizontally on the bottom. Looks good, no issues in 5 years. We visit weekends a couple of times a month, and winter runs October to April in southcentral Alaska.
 
 
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| 22hemi13 Member
 | # Posted: 23 Dec 2014 07:25am Reply
 
 I put paneling on drywall. Only issue I have is not enough glue apparently on a few panels. Those will be removed and reinstalled.
 
 
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| Ruggles Member
 | # Posted: 23 Dec 2014 11:22pm Reply
 
 We kept going back and forth and finally ended up with a good deal on t&g cedar, enough to go up 3 plus feet from the floor and then used 7/16 OSB from there up. New this summer so we'll see if it holds up well or not. We just caulked the seams and then painted it. I didn't like thinking of hauling drywall up the mountain, sounded like a lot of patching to me once I got up there hahaha.
 
 
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| BaconCreek Member
 | # Posted: 24 Dec 2014 08:29am Reply
 
 We used 4x8 barn wood siding from Lowes for the interior. Runs about 14.00 a sheet and is heavy stuff. We are in super humid KY and warping was a concern in our off grid shabin.  This product has done great and I suppose it could be painted one day if we chose to do so.
 
 
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| BaconCreek Member
 | # Posted: 24 Dec 2014 08:32am Reply
 
 Barn wood siding in kitchen area.
 
 
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| AK Seabee Member
 | # Posted: 31 Jan 2015 09:23pm Reply
 
 The T111 is $50.00 plus a sheet here. At $14.00 a sheet you cant go wrong. Heck, drywall is more then that here.
 
 The barn siding looks good in your place.
 
 
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| Truecabin Member
 | # Posted: 1 Feb 2015 12:36am Reply
 
 if its a house drywall is OK
 not for a cabin use wood
 
 sorry them is the rules
 
 
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| rmak Member
 | # Posted: 1 Feb 2015 09:04am Reply
 
 I watched and bought T & G on sale at Menards. That's my interior.  I screwed it on so I can remove if needed (Had to twice to change wiring).  I know it's more costly, but to tell the truth I hate working with drywall. The mess, the goop, the taping, the sanding, the re-sanding over and over.  I built the cabin to get away from those types of frustrations.
 
 Just my opinion.
 
 
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| toyota_mdt_tech Member
 | # Posted: 1 Feb 2015 11:33am Reply
 
 
 Quoting: Truecabin if its a house drywall is OK not for a cabin use wood sorry them is the rules
 
 I'm with "TrueCabin" on this one.
  
 
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| ShabinNo5 Member
 | # Posted: 1 Feb 2015 11:57am Reply
 
 Or interior choices have been a mix of pine T&G, T1-11 paneling and sheetrock. The Shabin is located in northern Minnesota and only heated on the weekends that we visit. In the past two years the outside temps have ranged from -25 f to 95 f.
 
 The sheetrock that is currently in place was installed 18 months ago. I have been told that since we only heat the building during visits, that the taped seams will crack as the building expands and contracts. So far there is no sign of cracking. I suspect that cracks may eventually show up. When heating the building, from extreme cold, I can hear the pop of the building as things warm up.
 
 If cracking is a concern, you can install the sheetrock vertically then cover the seams with a wood batten.
 
 
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| paulz Member
 | # Posted: 10 Mar 2018 08:16pm Reply
 
 Old but good subject.  I finally got some cedar T&G on my ceiling, sure beats looking at insulation.  Then yesterday I scored more, but it's 3 inch width not 5-1/2.  I have enough to go 4' up my walls.  Is it OK to put them horizontal across the studs or should they be vertical?  And like others have said I'd like to avoid sheetrock.  My walls are 12' high so I'm in perfect shape for 4x8 sheets of something above the t and g.
 
 I'm clueless on interiors, would wood paneling be OK above the cedar?  The barnwood siding above looks good.  Any other ideas?
 
 
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| Jebediah Member
 | # Posted: 11 Mar 2018 07:42am Reply
 
 The place I'm in has drywall, no paint but I think it was drywall compound that was used to make patterns into compound...I didn't like it at first but maybe that's why it was done this way because of moisture, not sure....Most walls and ceilings where finished with this method, maybe its a German thing as the previous owners were from Germany.
 
 
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| neckless Member
 | # Posted: 11 Mar 2018 11:55pm Reply
 
 10 years  with drywall   no problems  yet  northeren ontario
 
 
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| Cowracer Member
 | # Posted: 12 Mar 2018 09:04am Reply
 
 I'm with the "Cabin's got to look like a cabin" crowd. I went with knotty pine T&G, finished very simply with 2 coats of amber shellac. I didn't even sand them, just wiped them down, rolled on the shellac, and followed up with a dry brush to get rid of roller marks and 'pimples'
 
 I did all the math and by the diff between doing drywall (assuming I hung it and paid to have it taped and sanded) and T&G was only about $600 for my cabin.
 
 
  
 Tim
 
 
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| ICC Member
 | # Posted: 12 Mar 2018 10:43am Reply
 
 paulz, you mention 4x8 sheets and wood panels. I have yet to see paneling that does not look cheap. Most panels are simply printed pictures of wood with fake grooves. They just turn me off. I'd much rather have drywall, then at least I have the choice of using bold colors if I want and changing the color if down the road a while I feel like a change.
 
 I also like T&G wood boards. Vertical or horizontal? Your choice. Tradition is horizontal but that is mainly because the wall studs are vertical and the combination makes nailing the T&G easy. I have some vertically placed T&G. Those walls had horizontal furring strips applied across the studs first.
 
 Actually, all my walls have drywall installed first. Everywhere. Taped and air sealed. Then some were finished to a paintable surface. Others, where the wood was to be applied, did not have the taped seams finished all the way to smooth as they would be covered. Taping to smooth is not that hard to do with practice and using a series of knives from narrow for the first application of mud-tape, and working to wider to finish.
 
 I don't like rough surfaces as they are dust collectors.
 
 
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| Eddy G Member
 | # Posted: 12 Mar 2018 12:13pm Reply
 
 I've done mostly t&g pine but incorporated some drywall and even some plywood on the walls...
 Use to be 1960's cheap and dark paneling and partial board either varnished or with a layer of joint compound spread on it ...it was pretty ugly...
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| Eddy G Member
 | # Posted: 12 Mar 2018 12:16pm Reply
 
 Here are a few before
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| Eddy G Member
 | # Posted: 12 Mar 2018 12:20pm Reply
 
 Another before an after
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| paulz Member
 | # Posted: 12 Mar 2018 12:35pm Reply
 
 Thanks guys.  ICC I agree most paneling looks cheap.  And I guess MDF is out too?  I see some that is white with grooves like T111 (hides the seams) that sure looks good in the Home Depot pictures.
 
 Did some reading online and, contrary to my friend's advice, running the T and G four feet up the wall horizontally is not a total faux paus.  And it would allow me to get more coverage out of the wood I have.  So I think I'll start with that and figure out the rest later.  Staying out of the cabin this week, my poor old body needs a break.
 
 
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| KinAlberta Member
 | # Posted: 12 Mar 2018 10:37pm Reply
 
 Technically, even wood T&G board is also known as “panelingâ€. Which is too bad because it gets tarred by the same bush as that awful fake looking pressboard stuff.
 
 Our two old cabins, both with 60-70 yr old knotty pine T&G boards on the walls have had zero wall issues. Neither is heated unless used and one has had years of periodic winter use.
 
 Cosmetically speaking, I wouldn’t mind a bit of drywall in a cabin but I live in a wall-to-wall drywalled house, so it’s pretty much the last thing I want to see when I get out of the city.  I like the natural, rustic feel of wood.
 
 
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| neckless Member
 | # Posted: 12 Mar 2018 11:35pm Reply
 
 i have  bin in a lot of  cabins  or  homes,,,, all wood  paneling  or  expensive  tandg  ......too much  is  to much....alittle   new  wave  stuff with  old  stuff  makes  for a  nice  look,,,,,lol
 
 
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| paulz Member
 | # Posted: 13 Mar 2018 03:00pm - Edited by: paulz Reply
 
 Burlap!
 
 Excuse me.
 
 
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