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MtnDon
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# Posted: 24 Feb 2015 01:49
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Quoting: felineman If someone wants to recheck my calcs please do, the math gets a little confusing.
Without spec'ing any tool use, taking into account a loss of 15% at the inverter and allowing for cold temperature battery capacity loss of 50%, I come up with needing battery capacity of around 1600 amp-hours minimum at 12 VDC. Three days of autonomy. Use tends to grow over time.
I would not even consider that capacity on 12 volts; 24 volts minimum, IMO. And 48 volts would put more batteries in series, fewer parallel; better for the battery health as well as cutting down on the battery to inverter wire size.
I didn't see where the battery type was listed but it sounds like you have them already. ??? 12 of what, if I may ask?
I have to wonder if the estimate of 5 hours of sun may be optimistic. Unless you plan on a tracker. I live south of latitude 35 N and on a fixed array count 5 hours good. The sun shines longer but doesn't do much early and late in the day and winter is worse.
Two trailers behind a tow vehicle? If you mean both trailers having a typical ball coupler and single or tandem axles like most of those do, I would say no way. That would make me real nervous. The hitch weight of the last one (#2) would be bearing down on the rear of the first trailer, causing the front of #1 to get lighter. That might be a handful, a nightmare of sorts what with things rocking fore and aft on a bumpy road. YMMV. People do that with a gooseneck 5th wheel on a truck with a ball hitch second trailer on the rear of the 5th wheel.
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felineman
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# Posted: 24 Feb 2015 02:28
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12 batteries at 248 AH each interstate I agree the 5 hrs sun is min when you try to tell the weather to do something it does the opposite. Don I agree with the amount of weight on boulders hence why I was gonna go dry stacked full length walls I might be stuck using mortar or cement seeing as how slow the stack process is I might be able to to use a bonding agent as I would only be mixing only enough I need at the time. Sand is gonna be a pain to get in and is not accessible from the property. I would prefer keeping my system to 12 volt even if I have to split the systems apart and have separate systems for the water pump and lighting. I already have my inverters. I see your point on more then one trailer now guess its an extra day driving for two trips. Maybe 3 if I have to get sand. Batteries will be stored inside a special vented and heated box in the attic with my stove pipe going through it to keep batteries at a optimal temp. So battery temp lose isn't an issue, I've had one too many frozen batteries up north to repeat that lesson. Weight of the cement mix I haven't taken into consideration and will probably be the third trip. Thank god I left myself a good chunk of money for contingency. Fuel building materials and tools I have covered. Have enough panels and batteries to make 2 solar systems, might get a few more batteries just to be safe. I expect the paper work to be done Wednesday for the property and the first trip up as soon as the snow melts enough I can limp up the still frozen path. probably end of March before the rain turns it into a slush puddle the size of Texas. Must remember to buy more mothballs. Wanna get the tractor and RV trailer up before the ground thaws. The trailer is a tri axle so it shouldn't get stuck too bad. Anything else you guys see I've missed?
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 24 Feb 2015 08:57
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Sounds like you have it well in hand and I have to say it, even though I'm 99.9% certain you have it already but "Bug Shirt" ! I love mine and it's saved me from scratch-fests which one cannot fully appreciate until they have truly suffered being the food source for a million critters than want to feast.... all at once.
I have this one: Bushline Bug Blocker Pullover Jacket but mine is a light sand/tan colour. A most worthwhile investment !
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felineman
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# Posted: 25 Feb 2015 23:51
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Sorry spent most of day with lawyer putting last details on property purchase. I'll be getting water/tree/mineral rights for 99 years and right of way for 2010 acres. Taxes will be 384 bucks a year with no permits required. and seeing as its 347 KM from the nearest town I don't think I'll ever get a building inspector out there. Still gonna build to code though more for my own safety then anyone else's. I'm looking at 4 trips to get everything out there, First trip is tractor and gas trailer, then RV camper and quad followed by solar and building materials. First trip to commence once the snow melts enough to get up trail but the ground is still hard enough to drive on. 13.6 hrs one way that is a long haul with a 32 foot trailer. Might hire a second driver or get a self storage bin delivered. Internet and TV sat dish should be installed by end of April so I may not be online much till it does get installed. Solar system is easy to set up. Have zoned for mine/res/rec and agri so building anything I want shouldn't be a problem. Might get a fly over but doubt anyone for Mines and natural resources will even come up. Thanks Steve I did forget to add that and will pick a couple up Friday. Lots of work checking list making sure I have everything I need as supplies are expensive the farther north you go. Picked up some metal working tools and an big honking anvil last week so that gets added. Also picked up 2 more 100 LBS propane tanks so thats 5 I now own. Still trying to find a local sand supplier but might just stick with dry stack stone foundation on a rubble trench seeing as there are no rules saying you can't use it. Land has 2 major rivers and 1 small lake on it with full rights. It seems the property has been in their family since the early 1800's and their gonna grandfather the rights for another 99 years, I only hope to live that long :P So any questions comments or just general chit chat that you want to do with me better hurry up before the spring comes and I'm nowhere to be found 
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 26 Feb 2015 06:44 - Edited by: Steve_S
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CONGRATS on Closing the Deal !!!
I'm glad the bug jacket is now on your list... Wait till Mid-July when the deer flies carry off moose. Life would be horribly miserable without proper protection from them nasty critters.
I would also very strongly recommend a screened shelter / tent big enough to setup a table & a chair ... somewhere to sit and eat/drink etc and have a modicum of protection.
With 2 rivers and a lake, there will be sand there somewhere but you'll have to find it when everything is thawed and the bugs are feeding... (I have to laugh as I know a lot of folks readin here who have not travelled that far north, can't fully appreciate the ferocity & size of the critters).
A Sea Container may be a very good idea but getting it delivered could be quite a task... but it would certainly be a good way to get a big qty of stuff up in one shot. The other + from that, they are Bear Proof (that will be an issue) and can provide for food storage and more. You can always add to it and use it for more later on as an out building or shop etc...
While XplorNet will do what you want (web etc) have you considered other communications methods ? Shortwave / HAM ?
Some may think I over think some things... but the "Rule of 3" has been drilled into me for several decades. 3 uses for everything, 3 "backdoors" or backups, 3 chances... It's served me well and saved my keister (and others) on many an occasion...
Another couple of Thoughts...
First Aid kit ? You haven't mentioned it, I assume you have provisioned some of it but some essentials to include: Neosporin & Polysporin, Afterbite(tm), Rubbing Alcohol (80% or better), Detol (Antiseptic), Aspirin AND Tylenol, Bandages, bandaids (Elastoplast better), a couple of tensor bandages (big & small sizes) and the usual regular fixins. I mention all these because of your remoteness and access to available help should something occur. You need to be able to deal with things as they arise to prevent being knocked out of the game. If you haven't taken a First Aid Course, I'd suggest it's a good idea (I got combat medic trg yrs ago and it's proven it's worth).
Supply of ! un-scented ! soaps, shampoo's (if ya have any hair left, I don't LOL)... remember that anything scented = big neon sign to bugs advertising "Eat Here, Free Food".
Masson / Canning jars and lots of "Good Quality" zip lock type HD freezer bags for storage & preservation use... 5 Gallon "Food Grade" buckets with tight lids (check with restaurants & food stores, free or ultra cheap).
Ohhh & Bear Spray ! self-explanatory. 
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I know that I may be repeating things and pointing out the obvious but sometimes it's the obvious things that are missed, which are most important for a successful long term venture into the remote wilds... and being remote, one has to account for extras that will likely be needed in various situations. So if some of what I am stating seems redundant, other's following the thread may benefit if they do not have the experience or who may have missed some of these points in their own planning.
To that end, I'd suggest to people who have minimal or no experience being "way out there" to get ahold of some good "Bushcraft & Survival" books & guides and study them... I still refer back to some of my old training materials and to this day, they have served well... There is no substitute for being prepared and having the knowledge or at least access to it should the need arise. I was a Beaver, Cub, Scout... then Cadet, Reserves & Reg Force (infantry) and I'm still learning all the time.
Sorry this reply is so long but I hope it helps and gives you a chance to triple check your list.
Steve
PSS: It just occurred to me that you may not be as alone as you thought... as I recall, last summer Wynne & Gang were talking up the "Ring of Fire" Resource Development in that vicinity of Northern Ontario. If you are within that Dev Zone, things are going to start getting busy as they lined up the support, money & corporates to get started on that this year... If you are in that zone, M.N.R. likely has some pretty up to date maps and charts showing what is where... There is a lot of good stuff in the ground up there !
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Don_P
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# Posted: 26 Feb 2015 07:49
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Congratulations. Good point on Ham radio, they dropped the telegraph requirement some years ago, much easier to get.
On the foundation have you considered a treated timber crib above ground over the rubble trench or gravel pad, a couple of rows of 8x8's would serve the same purpose as a masonry wall but would not break up or slip rocks when things heave. Lag it together the same as the logs above. I'd carry several thousand olylog/timberlock type fasteners and a battery hammer drill/driver combo. For the log corners, notch and pass rather than butt and pass if that is the style you are using, stronger and less drafty. Spare wear parts for the mill, plenty of blades and sharpening gear.
The first thing I built on one job up north, and not nearly that far north, was a screened patio so we could get some relief other than the camper, one on each shoulder and they could carry you off.
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creeky
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# Posted: 26 Feb 2015 10:36
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bug protection... i did a mountain bike trip in way northern Quebec once. The local park station had a bug indicator. We were up there in mid-June. 5,000 blackflies per sq. meter!
A good cheap replacement for bug bite solutions is vinegar.
i use xplorenet satellite for internet. the modem eats a fair bit of power (45w/hr). so what I've done is leave the wifi router on 24/7 (5w/hr). then i have a belkin wemo power switch which I use to turn the xplorenet modem on and off. that way, at night, I save 12 hrs of power (12x45=540w). and it's overnight power. so it's a 1/2kw of drain off your batteries.
with the wemo I can turn the web off and on from the couch. Nice. I also built a beer can antennae booster for the router. ah off grid solutions. I used the imported 500 ml beer cans to get the taller can. 
btw. the overnight savings equals my power use for the day on my 10 cu ft electric fridge/freezer (winter). In the summer with the studio at 24-25 degrees I use a bit less than 1kw/day. (Note all values are actual, measured with an EM100).
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felineman
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# Posted: 26 Feb 2015 10:46
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got better sat phone. Bear spry 50 cans, and nope i'm at least couple hrs north of all the hustle and bustle. They did some road improvements, no logging that far north. Get some flyins overhead but thats about it. I got most spare parts covered, waiting on extra head gasket for tractor as machine shop was short on copper. Tents got them from the picnic table to the kitchen. I've done military training as a reservist and was Cub scout as a kid so I have training covered. I camp every year and even now cut lumber for firewood every year so I'm physically able. This has been a long process getting set up and doing everything I am able to prepare for the worse so that no surprises pop up. I still say dry stack over rubble trench is the way to go seeing as there are plenty of building still standing after hundreds of years with the same style foundations. There is no sand in that lake only small stones the rivers might have something I can use but they are not slow moving, approx 2-5 Km per hr as least thats what I'm being told. I'm using standard square notch lap joints with re-bar every 5 feet. In the Finnish style corners. I am considering the shipping container but not sure how a truck can get up my path, I might be able to fit in on my trailer but then how to get it off of the trailer. Little last details. Friend of mine has a mini bush hog I might buy it needs an engine but I can replace that, just so I don't have to hand clear the land. Always seems to be one more item you don't really need but want to bring. Well I'm off to the reserve to buy my smokes $10 a bag x 2 years worth there goes a grand. Should really quit but doubt my sanity would survive. First Aid covered I have access to almost everything I need to do anything up too minor operations, including the book "where there is no doctor" Mother was a nurse for 42 years so I've picked some basics up there too. Need to check amount of oils for chainsaw,bandmill,truck,tractor,skidoo,quad yada yada yada. BTW anyone know a good way to stop mice and other animals from eating your snowshoe bindings? I don't like the cheap plastic or metal framed one they have now a days, I own a good pair from the 60's made from wood and sinew.
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Don_P
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# Posted: 26 Feb 2015 14:05 - Edited by: Don_P
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Quoting: felineman gonna build to code
Quoting: felineman I still say dry stack over rubble trench is the way to go
Just sayin.
If there is a rebar or deadman of some sort laying in the bottom of the rubble trench with rebar extending vertically above sill level you can put speednuts on the rebar and I doubt it would be able to be withdrawn.
Moving up, infiltration is usually a bigger problem with log than R value. You'll be building with large green timbers that will shrink in service. One of the challanges in woodworking is that wood shrinks different amounts in different directions. Radial shrinkage is about half of tangential shrinkage. In a box heart... heart centered timber the vertical line from top to bottom through the heart is radial grain. On the inner and outer faces the cut is predominantly tangent to the growth rings. As the timber shrinks the faces tend to become convex. The timbers end up bearing on the center and gapping towards the edges. I've usually countered that by running a power planer down the middle of the bottom face making it lower than the edges, hopefully throwing the bearing and sealing back to the outer edges. This can be accomplished with an adze (wear shinguards or stovepipe) or a scorp by hand, hmm a log wizard on a chainsaw would do it. Foam tape can be run in that groove for more sealing. Chainsawing a groove about 1/4 depth in the center of the bottom face will encourage checking to happen in that protected face. Hollowing the meeting faces and notch in the half laps to make a tough path for the wind. Something along the lines of the sealed lap joint in "Notches of all Kinds".
You'll find that with rebar or spikes that a rocking chair log cannot be pulled down tight, you can beat on one end and raise the other or flip it over and get the ends down but not the middle. That is where we switched to lags and oly screws to pull things down "dollar bill tight"
For round and lightly sawn log beams this is a calc based on the math in Mackie's log span table book.
http://www.timbertoolbox.com/Calcs/logbeamcalc.htm
For fully sawn timbers the first simple beam calc works with heavy timber design values;
http://www.timbertoolbox.com/Calcs/beamindex.html
CRS, might have mentioned it before, or maybe just thinking loudly, a reciever at both ends of the truck for a 10,000 lb winch would be handy for self rescue. Charles McRaven built an A frame that mounted on the front of one of his trucks, a rolling gin pole for his stone and log work, that could utilize the winch.
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felineman
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# Posted: 26 Feb 2015 14:51
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I'll be doing a check cut the re-bar is only to satisfy the building code. Plus I'm using spray foam between logs. I was thinking threaded rod welded to a plate the same width of the foundation with the rocks around it. so long as it is holding the bottom log down it should be ok. No go on the storage bin delivery just can't get a truck in there till late June. But might be able to use a roller system to offload the container off my trailer. I have 2 x 5 ton winches installed one on either end of my truck so I'll be using them to lift anything I need to lift above my knee height. Even thought of the solar panel to recharge my truck batteries. Got same panel for skidoo,quad,tractor and sawmill. When I say I have 4 load I mean 4 32 x 12 x 12 foot container loads either packed in container or rv trailer that has been gutted except for bed sink toilet in the first 8 foot. so I have 24 x 12 x 7 storage area. My tri axle trailer is a class 3 37 foot long with 5 foot sides. truck is a Dodge ram 3500 gas guzzling POS but runs. Tractor is gas skidoo and quad are gas sawmill is 2 cyc onan 12.9 hp gas. OH and the gas trailer is a converted farm tank 10,000 liter full with gas, Just don't ask how much I had it filled at native reserve they don't pay tax Chainsaws are gas. Only thing I don't use gas for is fridge and freezer and thats liquid gas (Propane). My yard is starting to look like a parking lot. Want to get a small winch for the quad and trying to find an old wooden sled for hauling in winter. Not sure what else I need but post whatever comes to mind I may just have missed that item 
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leonk
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# Posted: 26 Feb 2015 15:21
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I don't think spray foam is a lasting solution in between logs, it ages, cracks etc.
You surely know this - consider where you put rebar spikes in the walls if you ever decide to cut a window there or something...
in the old days they used wood - no problem.
for first aid, make sure to add common antibiotics + skin stapler.
Ask someone to check on you once a year or so
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felineman
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# Posted: 26 Feb 2015 18:20 - Edited by: felineman
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I have butterfly tape for stitches and almost every medication you could think of my doctor helped me out with prescriptions just in case he knows i'll be out in the boonies so hes given me somethings you can't normally get. He knows I have a background in St Johns and Military training. Spray foam actually is good IF you keep it dry. Being inside the joint where water won't go will let it last up to 10 years and by then I just drill a small 1/4 inch hole and respray, OH and it mice eat it they BLOW UP. Gonna miss the SNAP sound of the manual mouse traps going off. Ya trying to cut a re-bar for a window would kinda suck I'll have to remember to add them to my drawings for future reference. I'm only a 3 hour drive from a town POP 100+ so there will be people around and I do have police service but no fire service. I'll make arrangements for someone to stop by ever so often. I do know someone about 2 hrs down the road so he will be stopping in every couple months too. Logs are square cut with the corner taken off for a drip edge not much air will pass through my walls. I agree with the wood pegs instead of re-bar but building codes dictate BLAH BLAH BLAH keep them happy and they won't find something to screw you over with. Forgot to mention I have about 300 cans of beans going with me so I'm also running on beans. NOTE TO SELF sleep with window open. But I won't have any wolf or bear problems, they'll be running for the hills with green gills.
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leonk
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# Posted: 26 Feb 2015 21:52
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bears will love the smell
do you have a dog? someone to talk to, you know 
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felineman
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# Posted: 26 Feb 2015 22:47
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I am not a dog person, But once I get set up I may get a few chickens. Bears don't really bother me, I could always use a rug for in front of the wood stove. Its the wolfs that can be dangerous. I'll have a radio for music and internet for talking to friends. Plus I can always have a few friends come up and give me company and free slave labor. I grew up in that area so I have friends and family in that area.
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Don_P
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# Posted: 26 Feb 2015 23:43 - Edited by: Don_P
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Everything loves chicken
I'm not entirely certain why code matters and if they visit I'm pretty sure they'll see the foundation long before they dissect a wall. Section 404 Connections, of the code referenced log standard, developed with input from log builders on both sides of the border, states that connections shall be capable of resisting design loads in lateral, shear and uplift.
Wood dowels are listed under mechanical connections and fasteners in 302.3.6 with a description of how to calculate bending yield and shear strengths. Rebar is not specifically listed but would probably fall under "other connectors" in 302.3.7. (requires analysis, full scale testing, yada yada) I do not interpret this as disallowing rebar since the Nat'l Design Standard does reference metal dowel type connections... nails, drift pins, threaded dowels such as screws and lags, bolts, etc. Rebar in my view is a dowel type connection. Personally I wouldn't use either. I have sawn all the way down the length of a lag when a window changed, cut across more than a few, it ain't fun but it isn't a deal breaker. A metal detector will pick them up. Where you will have trouble with wood dowels or rebar is in withdrawal, the uplift connections at the top plate log and the gable ends if the roof ends are dependent on bearing on the gable. Threaded fasteners the whole way sidesteps the uplift problem.
"Standard on the Design and Construction of Log Structures ICC 400" is available online from the ICC bookstore. It is pretty technical, but there are nuggets to be gleaned.
Those are all US codes but they usually align very closely. The ILBA in Lumby, BC is who wrote the first draft of the log standard. The best way to get correct code information is to get a codebook. First question to ask when someone says "it's code" is "where did you read that in the code?" You'll find out that they have never owned or even read a codebook. Someone that is actually quoting the code will find that section without offense just as I gave chapter and verse above. So I'll ask because I might have glazed over that section, where did you find the rebar requirement for logs in the code?
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felineman
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# Posted: 27 Feb 2015 01:31
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Section (A) 2.F.1 of the ILBA log building standards last paragraph states: Log walls with spans in excess of these distances shall have reinforcement such as wood-keys, dowels, smooth-shaft steel, through-bolts, lag screw, steel bar or log stub-walls. All such reinforcement shall allow for settling (see Section 6). I have access to smooth shaft re-bar 1 inch think by 8 foot sections for under 2 bucks a length. Lot cheaper then the lag bolts at 12 bucks each. Yes code says this is not necessary unless the distance between notches are more then 32 feet but I want no chance of green lumber moving as it shrinks. Also if you scroll up and look at the picture I have of floor plan you'll see that even if I wanted to move a window I couldn't do to the fact that there isn't anywhere I could move it. Every inch of space has be designed to be used. I am working on proper drawings as we speak and will find a way to upload them in the next couple days. As for the foundation that I'm taking a chance on, I might be able to say its pier construction covered with dry stack stones which is legal. I don't know why they don't accept dry stack as its been used for thousands of years without issue unless done wrong or not maintained. I just don't want to have to deal with the environmental and health issues that concrete create. Concrete life span is 2-5 years before cracks and water damage start, It gives off-gasses off as it decomposes causing health issue. And the biggest part LOOKS LIKE SHIT. I want to use what is available locally. Ok windows are an exception. I would use hand built if I could find any that didn't leak like hell. I'm just trying to build the best cabin I can that will be here long after my kids kids are. Am I a little crazy? HELL YES, you have to be to want to go out into the middle of nowhere and build a cabin, BUT as Mike Holmes say "If your gonna do it, do it right" and "Minimum code isn't enough" Am I gonna do it by minimum code NO, I'm using 12 inch logs not the min that states 8 inch. Reason, Better R value and square log why? Because you don't have a 4 inch wall where the logs meet. Also gives you a flat surface to mount cupboards without the need to use strapping. Why square log, Also easier to cut with chainsaw or bandmill. 4 cuts your done, easy to notch no need to keep removing log to saddle notch your round log. I take the best with the easiest and make them work within the codes that I have to deal with. Would a 8 inch log be easier to move then a 12 inch, HELL YES. But I want the better R value so I'm not having to cut massive amounts of wood to heat the place. Don't forget the closest power line is 300 KM away. At current costs Hydro One would want 1.3 million dollars to install lines just to my cabin and that doesn't include the main panel or cabin wiring. Luck I can use a compost toilet in this area as NOWHERE in Ontario can you an outhouse anymore if it wasn't built before 1992 I think the date was. If before that then they grandfathered it in, and your not allowed to move it to a new location, you must have it sucked dry by pump truck. We can thank the idiots in Ottawa and Toronto for this because to them we should all live like the Jones and live in million dollar houses and dress the same and do everything the government says we should. Used to be a time we could buy a piece of property and build whatever we wanted on it do whatever we wanted. Now we can't even park a pop-up trailer in our driveways. I'll know more once my plans are done and certified by the local Inspections office in Ottawa, I have been in contact with him for a couple years and he has given me clear instructions on what I can and can't do. Hes connected with the Mines and Natural Resources office so he would know. Sorry for the long rant but I just wanted to be clear that I do know what I am talking about. I have about 12 years worth of research and many a phone bill talking to almost anyone I could about what I am and am not allowed to do. The only thing I have yet to figure out is foundation, I'm in an unincorporated township which means I have no building inspector BUT I have to follow the Ontario building code. There is a small part in the code about natural building materials that include dry stacked stones but it doesn't go into details and I could never get a straight answer as they all want their eye sore concrete crap. The structure I am building would never hold up to a pier support foundation and would need at least a 18 inch wide poured concrete foundation at least 5 feet deep, Anyone wanna do the math? add in the 300 KM trip one way and the time it would take to clear a 45 KM trail 14 feet wide pack the earth and spread enough gravel to support the trucks needed to deliver the supplies and pay the hired labor. If someone is gonna spend 3 hrs driving one way and then tear apart my dry stacked wall foundation just to find out IF I have used concrete piers then by all means do it otherwise I will use the system that has been around for thousands of years and is tried and tested billions of times and be damned with their opinion that their way is better thinking. I don't get earth quakes up that far north so i don't really have to worry about lateral forces. My cabin will be in the 40-100 ton range I'd like to see the wind that could push it off my foundation. Maybe in Texas or Florida but not in northern Ontario. Concrete is porous and absorbs water, what happens when that water freezes? Its cracks the hell out of your wall. No matter how much foam,plastic or drainage tile you use water will always find way in. With Dry Stacked Stone Foundations the rocks are almost zero water penetration and being dry stacked the water just runs down into the rubble trench and is carried away into the drainage ditch. No chance of cracked foundations and if a stone falls out just put a new one in. No thousands of dollars getting someone to fix it like almost every house over 10 years old and in most cases newer then that. So I ask who is right the people that prescribe to you that their way is the only way it should be done or by the way it has been done and proved works for thousands of years. I'd choice the latter over the money hungry buggers in Ottawa any day.
Just my opinion
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felineman
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# Posted: 27 Feb 2015 14:29
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Sorry didn't mean to scare anyone off with last comment I still welcome your criticism and idea. Was just a day day and took it the wrong way. Anyone have any knowledge about UV light purification systems. Would like to know how much power they use can't seem to find anything on them. Also anyone have experience with Kill-A-Watt power monitors I'm looking for a plug and read monitor that doesn't require you to program everything including your hydro rates. Still working on final drawings for cabin plan I'm taking ideas and drawings if you have any I'm not changing basic shape but may add your ideas in if its not too much work. Below is a quick drawing with paint of my basic layout.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 27 Feb 2015 15:39
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Friends have a UV system. IIRC it uses 130 watts when operating. Theirs is a large sized system. From a company called Trojan; I remember that because the name is the same as their batteries. Totally different company though. I'm sure Google can find the company and their specs.
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felineman
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# Posted: 27 Feb 2015 19:01 - Edited by: felineman
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Scrapped old plans think I've come up with better design and its even to scale let me know what you think and what you would change. Using common plumbing wall so PEX tubing doesn't freeze. And have second EXIT in case something might happen. Also now have More counter space and dedicated utility room where I can store my batteries and other things I don't want to freeze. The wind blows from the east and north so I don't really want windows on those sides but may add a east window for those hot summer months. Stove pipe will come up wall and travel along ceiling to exit out of bedroom ceiling allowing more heat to be retained. Not sure on code for this but will check. Total sq ft of cabin is 654 sq ft. Now thats tiny house living in style. Plus I have storage above the ceiling I haven't even figured out how to use yet, but probably just gonna insulate the crap out of. So let me know what you would change and why. Please don't just say change this I want the reason behind it.
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felineman
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# Posted: 28 Feb 2015 19:18 - Edited by: felineman
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New layout but same size I think this works better.
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felineman
Member
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# Posted: 2 Mar 2015 15:16
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Finally got an answer to my foundation issue. Gabions google it but its technically a wire mesh wrapped dry stone foundation and its approved by OBC. So now its just a matter of figuring out how to move trailer 32 foot,tractor,quad,skidoo,bandsaw mill, building material and everything else 1384 km one way in the least amount of trips as possible as soon as the snow goes away. OH and the trails is 47KM long 8 feet wide and rather muddy at the best of times. So a shipping container isn't gonna fit.
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