|
| Author |
Message |
Snuffy
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Jul 2015 16:29
Reply
Due to the steepness of our property our building sits half on solid rock and half on compacted rock/gravel. This rock/gravel extends about 4' out from the door then falls away, dropping approx. 5' to the ground below. I want to build a deck that extends 12' and runs 24'(the length of the building). My plan is to support the near side on concrete pads and support the far side with 6x6 posts spaced six feet apart. If I use angled braces from the posts to the midpoint of the joists will that be support enough without having to attach it to the building?
|
|
bldginsp
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Jul 2015 18:56 - Edited by: bldginsp
Reply
Can't quite picture it. Can you post a drawing? Both top view and side view?
Is there a particular reason you don't want to attach it to the building? Decks love to be anchored to something solid.
|
|
Snuffy
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Jul 2015 19:38
Reply
I can't draw worth a darn. This is the best I can do. The deck will come off the right side of the building where the walk in door is. Ill try to post a pic. Hope it works.
|
|
Snuffy
Member
|
# Posted: 11 Jul 2015 20:55
Reply
Best drawing I can give you. I'm just not wild about drilling into my slab for anchors. If that's the only way then I will have to do that. I'm just trying to find another option.
|
|
bldginsp
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jul 2015 00:32 - Edited by: bldginsp
Reply
 Your drawing makes it clear. Tying to the slab eliminates the need for the cross bracing you drew (in that direction, but not the other). Holding the deck off the building will require the additional bracing but eliminates or reduces the possibility that the house framing will get rotted because the attached deck ledger board holds moisture against the building, rather than allowing it to drip away. You could install a flashing over the ledger to try to prevent this. Building the deck held away from and independent of the house with additional bracing is, in a sense, recognizing the reality that the deck won't last as long as the building. It all comes back to- do you want to plan for the future or not. If you've ever repaired rotted ledgers and rim joists it will make you think.
You said you were reluctant to attach to the slab (footing?) but this actually much easier than installing separate piers and bracing. No strong recommendation either way.
Edit- looks like you meant attaching the deck joists to a slab beneath them. The usual way to attach a deck is with a ledger (PT 2x6 or 2x8) bolted to the outside face of the house into the rim joist (I don't know if you were aware of this)
|
|
Snuffy
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jul 2015 09:18
Reply
Thanks for the info, bldginsp. There is no rim joist, its just a 5" concrete slab the bottom plate of the walls are sitting on. The siding overlaps this by an inch to inch and a half which doesn't leave a lot of slab to bolt a ledger to. My thought was the deck joists resting on 2" concrete pads or patio type blocks combined with the cross bracing would be sturdy enough without having to tie to the slab. I really appreciate the help, thanks!
|
|
bldginsp
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jul 2015 11:08
Reply
Keep the wood 8" above the dirt and give it lots of cross bracing, you'll be good. Good luck.
|
|
cspot
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jul 2015 12:10 - Edited by: cspot
Reply
The porch on my house is unattached. I had room so I put posts in the back to basically make a stand alone platform. That doesn't look like it would work for you as you wouldn't be able to dig a hole in the gravel without undermining the foundation. To me (opinion only) I would attach to the concrete slab. I would probably use some very short posts with this type of concrete post anchor to the concrete to hold the deck joists and posts off of the concrete which will help them to last longer.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_6472-166-PA66E-TZ_0__
This would only work though if you have room below the door to be able to raise it up.
|
|
|
cspot
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Jul 2015 12:17
Reply
Just throwing this out there, but another option would be to fill dirt around the gravel to give you enough of a level area that you could pour a concrete porch.
Not sure what your plans are with the gravel, but I would be concerned about overtime the gravel washing and flaking away if you will and eventually undermining the building. I would want to buttress around it with soil to hold it in place.
|
|
|
