|
| Author |
Message |
mattd
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Sep 2015 22:35
Reply
My neighbor gave me the windows he was replacing. His contractor didn't take any time to carefully disassemble them, and there is no frame. What I have is essentially 2 panes of glass framed in wood - one was the top and the other the bottom that slid up and down to open the window.
How can I install these so that the bottom can still open, even if I have to prop it open? my 2x4 framing is already there sized 1" wider in each direction then the window size. And siding is still covering the hole.
|
|
Martian
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Sep 2015 08:20
Reply
You need to create jambs with a channel in which the window slides. The simplest way, IMO, would be to cut a thin strips and nail them to the top and side jambs. The minimum jamb width can be determined by stacking the strips and frames on top of one another. Make the inside retaining strip wide enough to fill the remaining space of your jamb. Add a piece of weatherstripping to the bottom of the upper/outer frame to seal the gap between the frames when the window is closed. The sill should have a slight taper to the outside for drainage. Allow for weatherstripping when determining the width of the channels.
There are a lot of ways to accomplish what you want to do. Depending on what tools you have available, you could cut grooves into the jambs for the windows instead of nailing on strips, for instance, but without weights, or springs, to hold them up, you will be creating the "better mouse trap". Be very aware of having someones finger caught if the support gets knocked out accidentally.
|
|
davestreck
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Sep 2015 08:33
Reply
I did exactly that for my cabin build. I got a number of old wood sash from a construction site dumpster and rebuilt them as "single-hung" windows, meaning the top sash is fixed and only the bottom sash opens. It worked great and saved me hundreds of dollars over buying new windows.
|
|
ChuckDynasty
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Sep 2015 19:03 - Edited by: ChuckDynasty
Reply
Your rough opening width would be too small for your windows as is with added jams.
|
|
Borrego
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Sep 2015 19:54
Reply
He would use 1x's for the jambs so the 1" extra width on each side would still leave 1/4". The problem will be in making them weathertight. Might be better to just buy some Vinyl sliders for your opening windows and use these old ones as fixed view windows...
|
|
MtnDon
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Sep 2015 20:27
Reply
|
|
ChuckDynasty
Member
|
# Posted: 28 Sep 2015 16:28
Reply
I read it as 1" extra on top and on side. If he's got 2" on side yes perfect.
|
|
bldginsp
Member
|
# Posted: 29 Sep 2015 08:44
Reply
I used to make wood doors and windows. Here's a standard setup for double hung jambs. The sides are exactly like the headers. You need pulleys with weights, or spring weights, to hold up the sash. You could make all this with a table saw in your garage.
|
|
|
WilliamGhent
Member
|
# Posted: 14 May 2016 00:48 - Edited by: WilliamGhent
Reply
So if possible try to take help of an experience contractor who can give you total ideas of it. If not yes, if you create jambs in the channel of the window slides. This can help you somewhat to get out of this problem. There are various ways to come up with. Get proper ideas or view some source which can help you with this issue.
|
|
Don_P
Member
|
# Posted: 14 May 2016 10:45
Reply
You know, as spammers go this guy is trying. The company is in FL and that sure doesn't sound like a southern drawl from Mr Ghent.
I'm sort of in the same situation. My clients priced windows and it looks like we'll be making them. I delivered the first truckload of locust for sills yesterday. Still up in the air on jamb and sash stock. The ~100 year old ones are poplar which I have as well as white oak which is much better for rot but is more prone to checking and moves more. The church we were married in is a small old mountain church paneled in chestnut. The windows were out of it but the local assembly had begun restorations of the building. I was working in a millwork and cabinet shop, my boss actually suggested the chapel, so I could grind matching knives and donated the windows. LOL, so I'm slow... 32 years. I hadn't thought about it, he set me up, but in a good way. Ah, just found a pic online.
Anyway... This is a good short piece about seals and weathersealing;
http://www.conservationtechnology.com/building_weatherseals.html
|
|
NateVT
Member
|
# Posted: 12 Aug 2016 12:47 - Edited by: NateVT
Reply
For anyone looking to figure out how to hold up the bottom sash of a double hung window - here are some options for you:
http://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/window-stop
Or just research sash stays, sash spring bolts, sash tension spring or Victorian window stay. All of these are used in place of weight/pulley systems.
I have sash stays installed on some of the double hungs in my house and I can attest that they work great. The other nice thing about sash stays (versus, say a piece of wood to prop up the window) is that they can hold the window open any amount you like.
Also just a bit of trivia about windows - double/single hung windows pre-date the weight mechanisms to keep them held open. They used to be called "guillotine windows" for reason I'm sure you can imagine!
|
|
|
