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pcroom
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# Posted: 23 Mar 2016 15:43
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Is most house construction floor joists and walls etc.
I don't have a nail gun so I'm doing it the fashion way but my question is I've been using bright common nails16d 3 1/2 long and now I've been noticing that the heads have rust on them.
But when I try and find 16d 3 1/2 in sinker nail gold color I can't find any... all I can find is 16d 3 1/4 but I can find galvanized in 16d 3 1/2
What type of nails and what length and does it really matter?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 23 Mar 2016 17:43 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Lengths and diameter both do matter.... more than a little surface rust
IRC, section R602.3 has tables with the nailing schedule for virtually everything; nail size and how many. Note, if you will, that they specify nails by both the common "D" number and by length and shank diameter. That is because one guy's 16D can be different from some other guy's 16D, and so-called 16D nails for a nail gun are mostly thinner shank 'box' nails. The table differentiates between 'box' and 'common' nails in several places. Galvanized are usually only needed for exterior exposure, though there is no harm in using them for framing as long as they meet the length and diameter specs. Galvys for framing will only hurt your wallet. 
Be sure to read the footnotes as there is additional important info there.
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 23 Mar 2016 18:34
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And while on the topic of nailing, the rafter heel joint nailing specs are in another table...
TABLE R802.5.1(9) RAFTER/CEILING JOIST HEEL JOINT CONNECTIONSa, b, c, d, e, f, h ... look at all the footnotes there.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 23 Mar 2016 20:21
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Galvies are harder to drive because they have a rough surface. I only use them where they will be exposed, or into PT.
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Don_P
Member
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# Posted: 23 Mar 2016 20:33
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The 16D CC sinker is fine, at 3.25 x .149 it exceeds the callout in the tables... the minimum unadjusted depth of penetration into the second member is 10 diameters, .149" times 10 = 1.49"... a 3" nail of that diameter works.
You can sort of reverse engineer most of the code nail tables. Using the awc.org connections calc you can determine the strength the table is producing then you can plug in your desired nail and see if it is at least equal... if not, drive another one.
One thumbnail way that generally works in the field when using a gun and looking at the code table, pull the trigger half again more times... if it calls for 2 nails, shoot at least 3
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turkeyhunter
Member
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# Posted: 24 Mar 2016 06:41 - Edited by: turkeyhunter
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what kind of nails to use???
the ones that fit in a nail gun
I built my home over 3000 sq. feet 18 years ago ....I subbed it out and did everything I could do a myself as well...my friend who was my framer was old school...we hand drove the nails the whole house.....I was a anti-nail gun guy...BACK THEN...now I own 4 nail guns....they have there place in building.
that being said I bought 25 lbs of Galvanized 16's ( the ones that fit a hammer:confused a couple weeks ago for $2 at a estate sale...a deal...don't know if I will ever use them...but could not pass up the deal
I had several eastern red cedar trees sawn into lumber back in January ....putting it up on a interior wall in my cabin this morning ....cedar spits easy...but with my nail gun...it will be easy work and QUICK!!! and NO splitting with using the nail gun!!
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Don_P
Member
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# Posted: 24 Mar 2016 08:22
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Quick example;
I generally shoot a .131 x 3.25... into SPF lumber, 82 lbs allowable (yes it will hold my 175 lbs no problem, ultimate vs allowable)
A 16D sinker 3.25x .149... 100 lbs
A 16 common 3.5x .191... 120 lbs
A bargain gun nail .113 x 3, 61 lbs... If you shoot these and are looking at the table calling for common 16's, it's calling for 120 lbs per nail, you have 60... pull the trigger twice as many times.
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Borrego
Member
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# Posted: 24 Mar 2016 09:50
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What they said, plus if you're ahnd nailing, you will be fine with 16d like you get at Home Depot, they are plenty strong. The equivalent collated nail will actually not work in many of the standard nail guns, they get stuck because of the thickness. And you may want to go with a nail gun and .131 x 3.25....I used to be anti nail gun as well, but as I got older the ease of nailing, particularly in awkward spaces, became more important, not to mention you can be more accurate when toe-nailing too.
I recently had to hand nail a smaller frame (Because both of my guns and compressors were at a remote job) and boy am I feeling it after 2-3 days of swingin' the ole hammer 
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 24 Mar 2016 10:29
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hand banging nails, I d use 16D 3" galvies. Siding, 8D 2.5: galvies.
I would buy an air nailer. I have about 8 air nailers now, by framing nailer (will do siding) and my finish nailers are my most used nailers. I would never hand bang nails for building again, EVER. Get to sheeting roof, flooring, where you need massive abouts along the end and almost the same in the field, you will have shoulder issues. ;D
I do not use the sinkers, I have a framing nailer, but cant swing well enough to generate the heat to glue them in but hand. I use all galvies even in my framing nailer too.
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