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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Insulation, Roof Venting, Interior Wall/Flooring
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Outside Guy
Member
# Posted: 20 Jun 2018 14:43
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Brand new member. Love your site. Just came across it after searching for some answers via the Internet. Have had cabin with no electric since 2003 on my farm. My Dad and I built it (12 x 16) with two bunk beds, kitchen area (sink, counter, table), wood stove, and bathroom. Dad passed away in '09. This past January I had a fire going one weekend and decided to remodel...completely. Mice got in (we should have done a better job from the beginning at original construction). So, I was tired of that and removed wall covering. Everything is out now down to stud walls. Exterior sheathing is OSB with vinyl siding and that has been fine. Roof is asphalt shingles, no leaks. I'm putting in new windows and sealing them properly. I am sealing every little hole and if cracks are 1/4" or even smaller, I'm pushing in screening and steel wool, silicone caulking over and then Great Stuff pest block on top of that. The inside is not A/C and only wood stove heat in the winter when I'm there. So, most times the inside is either as hot or cold as the outside. It is in Kentucky so considered "North Central" on some insulation maps I've seen. I have one mushroom roof vent near the ridge on the roof. I'm considering putting in two gable end vents. The eaves are not vented. I'd like to insulate the roof and walls. If I use hard foam sheets (closed cell) and leave an air gap between the foam and the roof sheathing on the inside, it is my hope that the cabin won't be so hot in the summer and easier to keep in heat in the winter. While the eaves are not vented, heat rises and there should be some air flow with my mushroom vent and two gable end vents. All that said, do you see any issues with this set up? Also, I was going to drywall the interior, but I'm thinking with it getting cold and hot it might buckle or crack. Not so much worried about cracks, but more about buckling. I know wood will flex, and I have some cedar at the sawmill, but I don't think I have enough to do everything. What are your thoughts on drywalling in that variation of cold/hot and if that's a no go, what's best for flooring and wall covering? I thought about laminate wood strip flooring, but I've read that's not the best with the temps going hot/cold and they can buckle. Any suggestions are appreciated. Love your site and look forward to viewing as my remodel progresses. Thanks! Chris.

snobdds
Member
# Posted: 20 Jun 2018 14:59
Reply 


Use closed cell spray foam and do walls, celing, and floor if you can.

Then you solved all your problems in one easy solution. Plus you could do it all in a day.

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