|
| Author |
Message |
Paul_w
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Aug 2018 07:33 - Edited by: Paul_w
Reply
Hi everyone. Long time lurker, first time poster here.
I got a question about my cabin foundation. Namely, is it reasonable to attach cinder blocks on the sides with metal plates and specific screws instead of mortaring them together? I'm on uneven ground so had to double up on some of the foundation blocks.
Image attached.
It's a matter of convenience and speed really, I have the plates and screws on hand already. Does an approach like that make sense?
Thanks!
|
|
Princelake
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Aug 2018 07:50
Reply
Ya you can do that with tap cons. I'll be doing mine the same but before building on top I was going to use a heavy duty glue between them then fill with concrete.
|
|
Paul_w
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Aug 2018 08:04
Reply
Not sure what tap cons are (in Europe over here) but we have screws specific to this type of block (FIBO blocks they're called): https://www.bauhof.ee/et/kergbetoonikruvi-8-5x90-ruspert-50tk-fibole-498258
Now that you mention it, I think I'll pick up some glue as well to place between the blocks. Super cheap and makes me feel a bit better 
|
|
Princelake
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Aug 2018 08:44 - Edited by: Princelake
Reply
Ya tap cons are basically the only brand of concrete screw you can find locally here in Ontario. But the link you sent look close. And here locally people use lepage pl premium for all kinds of stone work and was planning on using that between the blocks.
|
|
socceronly
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Aug 2018 09:53
Reply
Are they meant for this kind of thing? Are they meant to be in a place where water gets in and possibly freezes?
Why not just drop a short bit of re bar in there and a bag of fast setting concrete? You can get bags of it that don't need mixing.
|
|
Paul_w
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Aug 2018 10:28
Reply
Quoting: socceronly Are they meant for this kind of thing? Are they meant to be in a place where water gets in and possibly freezes?
They're cold proof yeah, as long as they're not actually submerged in water. Good in case of freezing as well, something about there being plenty of room for ice crystals.
|
|
Borrego
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Aug 2018 10:37
Reply
I think that using screws in blocks will weaken the blocks (I've seem too much over the years)......mortar is still the preferred way to go.
Just my .02.....
|
|
Paul_w
Member
|
# Posted: 27 Aug 2018 10:41
Reply
Quoting: Borrego I think that using screws in blocks will weaken the blocks (I've seem too much over the years)......mortar is still the preferred way to go.
Thought of that though among other things, these particular blocks can be used to build 5-story houses, so I think weight wise I'm good.
|
|
|
Paul_w
Member
|
# Posted: 30 Aug 2018 13:49
Reply
It was a lovely, warm, wind-free day today. Decided to enjoy it and mortar the blocks after all. Was a bit reluctant since I'd never done that before but I think it turned out quite well.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 30 Aug 2018 14:49
Reply
I believe it is best to have done the job with mortar. As Borrego said, the holes for the screws may weaken the block walls just enough so if at some future point a block set has some lateral force applied the hole where the screw is might be the place where a crack begins. There is no concern about the block being strong enough to carry the weight it is more a question of how the concrete side wall of the block will react IF a lateral point load is applied.
However, is that top block solid or does it have hollows? Here in the US and Canada we would usually use the hollow core blocks, mortar them together on the other and then after the mortar joint has set 24+ hours we would fill the voids with concrete mix with some short vertical lengths of rebar inside. The steel and inside concrete tie the blocks together much better than a mortar joint.
Do you have a separate concrete footing under those? How deep is your frost/freeze depth there?
|
|
Paul_w
Member
|
# Posted: 30 Aug 2018 15:49
Reply
Freezing is around 1.5 meters. No holes in the blocks. And I dug around half a meter until I hit sandy/rocky ground, filled it with what you see on the image and placed the blocks on top.
The entire thing will be sort of off the grid and temporary. Outhouse, zero plumbing, generator for what power is needed etc. At 4x5 meters, it's essentially a shed. As long as it lasts 5 years without collapsing, I'm good. Fingers crossed I won't run into anything too crazy.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 30 Aug 2018 17:40
Reply
Quoting: Paul_w No holes in the blocks
OOoof! Those must be heavy!!! Probably nice and solid.
If you don't mind answering, where in Europe. I'm just curious having traveled there a lot. I understand if you wish to remain "somewhere in the EU"
|
|
Paul_w
Member
|
# Posted: 31 Aug 2018 02:26
Reply
In the Baltic States, somewhere
And the blocks aren't that heavy. They're 5MPa though, intended for foundations and walls for buildings up to 5 stories high. There are 3MPa versions of them as well which I put the outhouse on but decided to over-do the cabin.
|
|
Paul_w
Member
|
# Posted: 9 Sep 2018 04:11
Reply
Got another question about the bottom area of the cabin. Is it necessary to connect the beams and blocks to each other with screw plates or similar? Or is just resting the floor framing on the blocks enough?
|
|
Borrego
Member
|
# Posted: 9 Sep 2018 11:15
Reply
You definitely need to have a solid connection between your beams and foundation. Something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/29-lb-Cinder-Block-Pier-with-Z-Max-Strap-098063/202092200
You would have to use some short posts and then a post/beam connector.
|
|
Paul_w
Member
|
# Posted: 10 Sep 2018 03:31 - Edited by: Paul_w
Reply
Would something like this do the job? L-shape on one side, plates on the other?
|
|
|
