Small Cabin

Small Cabin Forum
 - Forums - Register/Sign Up - Reply - Search - Statistics -

Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Door Hinges how to
Author Message
paulz
Member
# Posted: 27 May 2020 16:08
Reply 


I've mocked up an 8x8 plywood door. The plan is to have 2 of them side by side, swinging outward from the center (16 ft. opening). I want them to swing 180 degrees so they are out of the way.

Basic T hinges but just want to make sure..the pin goes on the outside centered on the gap? Do I need to jack the door up an inch on the other side to allow for sag before putting the screws in? How about aligning the hinges to each other?
0527201212_HDR11.j.jpg
0527201212_HDR11.j.jpg


ICC
Member
# Posted: 27 May 2020 23:03
Reply 


That seems to be an extraorinarily wide door for some simple t-hinges. I believe a door that size will sag for certain. What is uncertain is the amount.

I believe the hinges will sag as well as there being a chance of the door shape sagging out of square over time. The hinges will likely want to rotate with the weight. If you use bolts through the hinge metal and framing and use steel backing plates much of that can be prevented. But an eight-foot wide door really needs long strap steel hinges and taller hinge plates where they fasten to the wall framing. If you nail the plywood every 3 inches around the perimeter that will help retain the square shape.

I think it is fruitless to try and guess how much the doors or hinges will sag and attempt to compensate by installing at an upwards angle or tilt. How much is a guess. Try installing a cable with a turnbuckle from the upper hinge corner of the door to the lower corner diagonally opposite. That can help retain and adjust any sag on the door squareness. But if the hinges sag in the way they are bolted, or if they are too light and deform, well that is hard to correct.

I would consider using a sliding track mechanism if there is wall space beside the doors to support a long track. Or, what I would do is make the door frames out of welded steel, with a steel plate or angle vertical as high as the door and through bolted to the wood framing of the wall.

paulz
Member
# Posted: 28 May 2020 15:21
Reply 


Thanks ICC. I went ahead and attached it today, seems to work fine but I like the turnbuckle and through bolt ideas. I'm in no rush, going to let it hang for a couple weeks and see.

KinAlberta
Member
# Posted: 29 May 2020 15:58 - Edited by: KinAlberta
Reply 


Over time I think you may have some sag or the top hinge coming free of the frame.

I’d consider adding another hinge near the top of the door but far enough from the top hinge that you don’t encourage the stud to split (from too many screws too close). Or consider using strap hinges to spread out the load and put less stress on one stud.

When the doors are at 90-degrees there is also going to be a lot of outward pull on the top hinge(s). I’ve seen the guy-wire approach used on big doors.

When it’s at 180-degrees I could see the frame cracking or splitting. You might want a little support for the door to rest on when wide open. (If they sag over time, when closed they may just butt up against each other and so support each other). A metal plate behind the T-hinge might also help spread out the forces.

paulz
Member
# Posted: 29 May 2020 17:35
Reply 


Thanks Kin, good points. I don't plan on leaving them at 90 degrees, perhaps when they go 180 I can have a perch they can sit on. I was also thinking about a third hinge at the halfway point.

This door is really light, so far. The plywood is 3/16 (I got about 20 of them leftover from a display at Burning Man) and the frame is 1x6, except for a 2x6 at the hinges. I do need to add a couple more 1bys though.

Your reply
Bold Style  Italic Style  Underlined Style  Thumbnail Image Link  Large Image Link  URL Link           :) ;) :-( :confused: More smilies...

» Username  » Password 
Only registered users can post here. Please enter your login/password details before posting a message, or register here first.