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nirvanamike06
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# Posted: 28 Jul 2021 12:51
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We recently bought a small cabin. Luckily it already has a water well and electric on it but the ampacity it can carry is pretty small. We don't need much so rewiring isn't cost effective. Only thing missing is hot water. I was able to pick up an eccotemp L10 propane unit fairly priced and the house is already plumbed for hot water just has a cap on the end.
Plan is to hook up the 1/2" pex hot water line straight into the unit set on max temp and use the mixing valve on the shower to regulate water temperature. I read some people say it wouldn't register enough flow to kick the unit on but im wondering if it was only because they were using 12v pumps? This house has an actual pressure tank from the well pump.
Also the cold water line id run into the feed side of the L10 is from a 1/2 pex line that already feeds the shower. There is a 1" main line on the other side of the cabin I was thinking I could branch off of with 3/4 if that would be better to keep the flow up on the unit to keep it running.
Id like to have a removable fitting on the bottom also to hit a shutoff, undo the fittings and be able to move the unit around to drain it or clean it. Thinking maybe a pex/threaded shutoff and a flex line for a regular hot water heater? I'm sure there's something better I just dont know about yet.
I know this is a highly debated topic but im leaning towards installing it on the indoor, if you wanna call it that, part of our cabin to keep it out of the elements. Our cabin was one of those pre-built that had a front porch. The previous owner just slapped some plywood on the sides and turned it into a bathroom but it has air gaps everywhere and a big window and door that stays open so its not sealed by any means. Thinking a carbon monoxide sensor and the door open is plenty from what I've read.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 28 Jul 2021 15:54 - Edited by: FishHog
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My L10 runs just fine off my 12v pump with 1/2†pex and on the lowest flow setting on the unit. I just run hot tap only and adjust temp with the temp setting on the L10
They also have a drain valve so no need to unhook it or move it to drain.
Mine is also mounted inside the cabin. Leave enough room above it for heat dissipation and in 7 years we have never had an issue. It’s not like they run long periods and your not sleeping in the shower. I put a co monitor in my bathroom closed the door and showered with no reading of co. Ran it during hunting season with 5 guys taking showers back to back and still never had a co reading
Sure it’s not best practice from the safety world. But in the real world when you don’t want it freezing up outside and the ease of reaching out and adjusting the temp from the shower I think it’s awesome
Temp only needs to be adjusted once per trip depending on feed water temp so just adjusting it on the unit is the simplest way to go.
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nirvanamike06
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# Posted: 28 Jul 2021 17:53
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Good to hear. I have a single handle delta shower faucet. Worst case I can adjust it to just run full hot water from the unit. I'm just gonna run it with the 1/2 pex and see how it works. Just hoping the single handle valve doesn't effect the flow where it doesn't kick on. I'm guessing I can adjust the flow meter at the unit to make it less sensitive?
Thats why I'd like to put it in the bathroom to so you can adjust it without going outside. Get a buncha dagum stickers in your feet going back and forth trying to dial it in.
I'm gonna put it just above the toilet so it'll have maybe 3 feet above it and be on the outside of the 2x4s so it'll have space all around. I'll pick up a co monitor but its sounding like the ventilation around it should be plenty. It's in the middle of nowhere so leaving the door open if the weather is nice is a non issue.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 28 Jul 2021 19:33
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If you get freezing temps I’d avoid a mixing faucet like you have. They don’t drain and unless you blow them out or circulate antifreeze they freeze and crack
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nirvanamike06
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# Posted: 28 Jul 2021 20:29
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I'm in the texas hill country so freezing Temps are rare but I actually have a cracked cartridge in the mixing valve right now so possible its from that? I think it might have been previous installer error but luckily it's a delta. I called their service line and they have a lifetime warranty on all parts so they sent me a new one free of charge. Never knew it before but ill dang sure buy delta in the future.
I'm thinking if the mixing valve gives me much trouble I'll just remove it and run the hot water straight to the shower head and use the unit to adjust Temps.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 29 Jul 2021 06:14
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I use an FVI-12 for Hot Water. (2015 model)
3/4" pex from well to Hot Water Heater location. There it splits to two 1/2" pex lines, 1 to HW and 1 for the cold. Did it this way so that regardless what is running the pressure is consistent to hot/cold lines.
The pressure required to trigger the heater is a PITA, mine is anyway. The reason is that it requires a Minimum of 22psi (50-60 PSI recommended) and had to flow a Minimum of 0.98gpm. Water Saver faucets just don't flow enough, even fully open.
The "Fine Print" notice also states: If using Mixing Valves on the outlet, chose one which prevents cold water pressure from overcoming not water line pressure. ( I failed to see that, got the wrong type and Grumble grumble...)
I took it one step further for maintenance purposes and to meet requirements I used a proper On-Demand Heater Kit from WATTS like this:
See attached photo of the setup.
Apparently the Cut In Pressure point has been changed since my model was made, so make sure what the specs are for your particular model, because it IS a pita to figure it out after the fact.
Hope it helps,
Steve
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FishHog
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# Posted: 29 Jul 2021 08:56
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I totally forgot about low flow heads as Steve mentioned. But it’s an easy fix. Take the head apart. Pull out the plastic piece with the small round hole and drill it a bit larger
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nirvanamike06
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# Posted: 29 Jul 2021 10:45
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According to the paperwork my shower head flows 2 gpm. The shower is all im worried about. Sink would be nice but if it doesn't kick it on so be it.
So yours is 1/2 pex actually into the bottom side of the water heater right? Looks like it in the picture. That should be a similar setup to how mine is. I have 1" to the bathroom then has 1/2 breakoffs to the fixtures. The line going into the bottom of my water heater would be easier to run 1/2 since its stubbed out already but if I had to I could crawl under the cabin and tee off the 1 inch with a 3/4 line if it will make the heater run better.
I saw those valves may end up getting some eventually. For now just trying to get it going. I had read about people getting overtemp though so not a bad idea at all.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 29 Jul 2021 13:41
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My sink runs my heater no problem even if I only open the tap 1/2 way.
I don’t know why or if people really have issues. I never have with all my lines being 1/2†pex
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 29 Jul 2021 15:38
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Quoting: nirvanamike06 So yours is 1/2 pex actually into the bottom side of the water heater right?
Just below the heater (behind the stand panel) has 3/4" pex, which has 1 T fitting that goes to 1/2" Pex then to Input Valve. Hot output is 1/2" only. The END of the 3/4" pex below steps down to 1/2" for could out supply.
Sort of like this:
===3/4====T===}1/2"-Cold Out.
....................||
....................1/2" to HW Heater.
ignore the periods, just for spacing.
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nirvanamike06
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# Posted: 29 Jul 2021 22:31
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Makes sense actually lol. The periods make it a perfect diagram. I feel pretty confident the 1/2 is all I need. Luckily thats the easiest way to plumb it in as well.
So next problem. I want swivel fittings to be able to remove the heater if I need without cutting the fittings everytime. All I can find is these plastic ones with gaskets. Not the biggest fan looks like they'll bust or split. Yall got any experience with them or any other suggestions?
I'm also only planning on putting a shutoff on the cold side. Don't figure i need one on the hot.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 30 Jul 2021 08:32 - Edited by: FishHog
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I used sharkbite fittings on mine to connect the pex to the water heater. They are easy to remove (just a wrench) leaving the fitting connected to the pex.
I’ve only removed them once due to a leak issue but it’s a simple job
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nirvanamike06
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# Posted: 1 Aug 2021 08:32
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Man Mr. Fishhog you are the man! If you ever need me to vouch to your wife or kids how helpful you are i got you covered.
I got the setup all put in, surprisingly fast to using the pex, fired it up! Nothing..... clicking, I can see the spark but no ignite. Try the bottle on the grill, pressure when I break the seals. Call tech support. Says closed. Mad as heck thinking its within hours until I realize its Saturday.... found a couple q&a writeups on their website and says to take apart the solenoid but when I look inside the unit I can already tell I'm gonna break something trying that. I start to notice I haven't smelled gas the whole time so I think man let me just break the pressure on the line into the unit one more time. Cracks pressure releases.... Poke a screwdriver inside the units tapered gas fitting and it won't go. Somehow a dagum piece of hard plastic like the shipping covers was inside the fitting! Looked at my fittings and there was no circle cut out of them so I got no dagum clue where that came from. Fired up like a charm after that.
Then the temperature problems. Also its heat of the day by now but I couldn't get it to turn down. The flow on the unit wants to be on the minimum setting. I turn it up a little bit and it kicks off. Then per advice from here I took the shower head off and drilled it out. It gave me just enough adjustment on the flow setting to get it perfect. I took a shower last night about 10pm and it was super easy to adjust and had alot more play in the temp range. It would be nice if I could bump up the flow on the unit though to cool it down or maybe I just needed a smaller model? I did find if I turned the sink on i could adjust the mixing valve wherever I wanted.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 1 Aug 2021 10:48
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Glad I could help and glad you got it working
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nirvanamike06
Member
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# Posted: 1 Aug 2021 11:50
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Yes sir. Is there any other adjustments you or anybody else knows of to help me increase the flow to decrease the temperature? Seems wild that the water heater wants the know on a lower flow than a faster one I figured it would be the complete opposite. I guess with 100 degree days the waters already close to warm when winter gets here ill be cranking it up im sure.
I may try a different shower head and eventually a different mixing valve. Something with just 2 knobs that flow independently would probably be the best. I just dont feel like ripping the shower out and redoing all the lines into the mixing valve just yet. Might try and drill a little bit bigger hole in the shower head to. Gonna have to tell the wife to be careful though. Not much more pressure till it starts taking the paint off ya in there.
Also heres my fittings I used in case anybody ever ends up in the same situation as me and trying to figure out what works. These swivel and despite my worries they didn't leak a drop and I just hand tightened them. I made sure they went on square because I did notice on the hot water the openings don't line up as perfect as the cold water and it would angle the brass piece if you didn't hold it.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 1 Aug 2021 16:00
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Quoting: nirvanamike06 So next problem. I want swivel fittings to be able to remove the heater if I need without cutting the fittings everytime. All I can find is these plastic ones with gaskets. Not the biggest fan looks like they'll bust or split. Yall got any experience with them or any other suggestions?
You can also just make a low side drain via a ball valve. For draining to keep from freezing. I'm not sure I would trust just draining a system with such small openings like the heater has. I plan to plumb in a air compressor to my system with a regulator and blow the system out at each faucet.
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laelliott96
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# Posted: 6 Jul 2023 23:25
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Can the eccotemp L10 support a shower and a sink? If so, are there any suggestions for the installation?
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FishHog
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# Posted: 7 Jul 2023 09:48
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Mine will not run the shower and sink at the same time. Flow gets too low and heater shuts off. Not an issue for me as showers are short and sweet and anyone who needs hot water at the sink can wait.
I’m sure if I put in a larger pump it would work but I don’t care
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laelliott96
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# Posted: 8 Jul 2023 18:20
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Can the water heater be plumbed to the shower and a sink (to be used at separate times)?
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FishHog
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# Posted: 9 Jul 2023 08:30
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Yes they can be plumbed to as many items as you want. I run a shower and 2 sinks off mine. Just “T†connections on the outflow from the heater run to each location
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