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paulz
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# Posted: 18 Jul 2025 08:45am
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Redoing the external speaker on the cabin TV yesterday was a good reminder of how much I use these electrical wire nuts. Primarily on low voltage DC stuff, LEDs, usb stuff, but if I checked I’m sure I’d find some off the genny, inverter. Not that that’s bad, they certainly are simple and work. Haven’t used a crimp on barrel connector in a while. Downside, they fall off if disturbed, maybe not the best current passer..
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 18 Jul 2025 09:28am
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Mighty handy, especially for things I think I might have to get back into shortly. They dont fall off If Done Properly! And I admit to having done some improperly as Ive used them for decades but learned a few things about that online the last couple years; take a look 
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travellerw
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# Posted: 18 Jul 2025 12:06pm
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I discovered these about 5 years ago and they have been a game changer. Rock solid and water resistant (I wouldn't use them under water).
I use a little butane torch to activate and shrink them.
https://www.amazon.ca/Solder-Connectors-Shrink-Tubing-Assortment/dp/B08G574SJD?source =ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2MFM0BY9U0BL2&gQT=1
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 18 Jul 2025 01:14pm
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If your wire nuts fall off if bumped or lightly pulled they have not been installed correctly or have too few or too many wires or wires of the wrong size. They should be a little difficult to begin to untwist or remove them.
There are some that do not have the conical shaped metal insert. Those can be damaged internally and may not work well. They are meant for only low voltage. I don't like them for anything.
Those solder seal couplers are very nice if you want permanent and don't have an electrical inspector dropping by.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 18 Jul 2025 03:14pm
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There really only for solid wire and to protect the conductor. Your suposto use lineman pliers and twist up the wire then cap with a wire nut.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 18 Jul 2025 04:17pm
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And always point wire nuts upward otherwise, they will hold moisture like a cup and corrode the wire they are connecting together.
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 18 Jul 2025 05:19pm
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Quoting: MtnDon Those solder seal couplers are very nice if you want permanent and don't have an electrical inspector dropping by.
If its something that must be to code, then I use WAGO these days. Work on a variety of solid and stranded wire gauges and are code compliant. Yup, they cost WAY more than wire nuts, but worth it for the convenience. They also make a flatter overall connection that is easier to jam back in the box.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 18 Jul 2025 07:46pm
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These look nice
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travellerw
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# Posted: 18 Jul 2025 08:27pm
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Quoting: paulz These look nice
Those are great for hobby stuff (or things like 12V in an RV, speaker wire, ect ect). I use those for tons of stuff, I even extended a thermostat wire in my garage with one of those. .
Unfortunately, those are not certified and don't pass code. If it needs to be inspected, WAGO is king. If it needs to be inspected, spend the money on WAGO to avoid any issues!
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 18 Jul 2025 08:55pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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Wirenut connections are good, even great, but are highly dependent upon being installed correctly.
There was a comment that stranded and solid should not be combined. Another comment mentioned pretwisting as a must. Neither are entirely accurate.
Stranded can be connected with solid. Cut/strip the stranded 1/8" longer than the solid. Align the insulation so the stranded wire end protrudes. Twist on the wirenut. (That is done with darn near every light fixture)
Pretwisting or not. The NEC does not state how this should be done. They refer the installer to follow the connector manufacturers directions. That may vary, but the Ideal brand wirenuts I use state pretwisting is optional.
Ideal info sheet pdf is attached. Use the directions for the brand you use.
In any case, test tug on the wires after completing. A good wirenut job can suspend 15 lbs without coming apart.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 19 Jul 2025 09:18am
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Quoting: travellerw Those are great for hobby stuff (or things like 12V in an RV, speaker wire, ect ect). I use those for tons of stuff
Ordered, thanks! My cabin is still mainly 12v (water pump, TV, fridge) and usb for lights and phone chargers.
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Grizzlyman
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# Posted: 20 Jul 2025 12:39am - Edited by: Grizzlyman
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Wire nuts are good. Every house wired at every electric socket, switch, and junction box in the us uses wire nuts. (Family is electricians). There are newer options now- but I believe most homes are still wired with wire nuts. They’ll never come apart if the correct size wire nut is used.
They are terrible for outside applications though. I have re-wired several boat and trailers where someone uses them and it’s always corroded.
They do sell “external” wire nuts that have protective goop in them… but heat shrink butt splices are best I’ve found for 12v outdoor applications. In fact I pretty much use the 12v heat shrink splices exclusively for anything 12v unless it’s a direct solder switch or component. They can be found for cheap in large variety boxes on Amazon.
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paulz
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# Posted: 20 Jul 2025 06:58am
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Quoting: Grizzlyman They are terrible for outside applications though. I have re-wired several boat and trailers where someone uses them and it’s always corroded.
Yeah I’ve seldom seen them used in vehicle applications, both OEM and aftermarket. Even the cheapest car stereo installer seems to use something else.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 21 Jul 2025 11:21am
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Quoting: Grizzlyman hey are terrible for outside applications though. I have re-wired several boat and trailers where someone uses them and it’s always corroded
I have also. Prety much any vehicle wireing with a wire nut on it tells me a hack has been there.
There just about as bad as scotch locks. One trailer I had I removed 22of them. Replaced with heat shrink butt connectors and it had over a decade of faith full service.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 21 Jul 2025 12:12pm
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My most recent experience was with some outdoor low voltage lights a landscaper did for us at the front walk and steps. He installed them during the day and that night 1/4 of them didn't come on. Pulling the wiring up from the wood chips was easy enough and each light was just a fancy 'more hd' scotch-lock onto the main 12v pos/neg run. Well, NO surprise the lights that didn't work were all poorly pressed onto that mainline and not making contact. Easy fix but I could see right off those were def not the right connectors for an outside environment! I took a Quick Look online for a more quality 'weatherproof' landscape light con and what looked lots better was $$$; figured Ill wait for some failure, lol.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 21 Jul 2025 04:36pm
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Quoting: gcrank1 landscape light con and what looked lots better was $$$; figured Ill wait for some failure, lol.
When all else fails. Solder and then cover the entire connection in a thick blob of silicone (I like the black stuff). I haven't found a more outdoor proof connection yet.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 21 Jul 2025 05:33pm
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Sounds good to me!
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rpe
Member
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# Posted: 24 Jul 2025 07:08pm
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Speaking of wire nuts, I bought a snowmobile from a retired electrician. I found wire nuts under the hood fixing some mouse-damaged wires, and even one serving as a splice for a failed choke cable!
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FishHog
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# Posted: 25 Jul 2025 07:33am
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Quoting: rpe Speaking of wire nuts, I bought a snowmobile from a retired electrician. I found wire nuts under the hood fixing some mouse-damaged wires, and even one serving as a splice for a failed choke cable!
Bush fix that worked so was just forgotten about. Or knew he was selling so didn’t care
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 25 Jul 2025 08:18am - Edited by: gcrank1
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Bush Fix, I like that 
The 6x100w panel solar system by the prev owner, well, everything electrical at our place, was like that. My impression came to be that he stuck things together just enough to get functional and intended (maybe Im being too generous) to 'perm up' later.
Of course I Never do That!
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 25 Jul 2025 10:36am
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Good idea! Tired of wasting these vise grips. Choke knob broke off long ago.
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darz5150
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# Posted: 25 Jul 2025 12:15pm
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Good one!
I've used split shit fishing sinkers crimped on broken throttle cables etc. before.
Also somewhere I have Liquid Tape to seal up trailer and outside electrical connections. Just dab it on then use wire nuts or whatever.
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rpe
Member
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# Posted: 25 Jul 2025 01:53pm
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I bought an old Mazda GLC many years ago, and found the muffler bracket being held to the vehicle by a rusty vice grip. The proper clamp was probably cheaper than the vice grip, but not as readily at hand. Nothing is as permanent as a temporary solution.
Sorry to de-rail the wire-nut conversation!
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 26 Jul 2025 08:53am - Edited by: paulz
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Quoting: rpe Sorry to de-rail the wire-nut conversation!
No problem, we can always enjoy a little bush humor, can’t all be perfect. Here’s the seat back adjuster in my 30 year old last legs pickup. Again, plastic lever broke years ago (gee, maybe it’s me). I’ll weld something on if I get it near a mig, the splines are long gone, but it is handy always having vice grips at a known location. What did we ever do before they came along.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 26 Jul 2025 09:15am
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Baling Wire then Duct Tape
Cable Ties are great too
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 26 Jul 2025 11:14am
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Yeah, plenty of that stuff around too. And cheap black electrical tape used for misc things, like keeping spare usb cables from their infernal knots.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 5 Aug 2025 10:30am
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Quoting: travellerw Those are great for hobby stuff (or things like 12V in an RV, speaker wire, ect ect). I use those for tons of stuff, I even extended a thermostat wire in my garage with one of those. . Unfortunately, those are not certified and don't pass code. If it needs to be inspected, WAGO is king. If it needs to be inspected, spend the money on WAGO to avoid any issues!
Got em yesterday. Tested on speaker wire, held great. Says goes up to 12 AWG, sounds like a lot.
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MtnDon
Member
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# Posted: 6 Aug 2025 03:34pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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Those look like WAGO clones? Copies that look like WAGO, but do not have the WAGO logo imprint?
This is sorta like the topic on Simpson screws; these look more or less like the real thing but may have deficiencies. No UL listing most likely.
From what I see in reviews of the WAGO clones, there are some reviewers who have tried them and concluded that they would not trust them to be used with household circuits of 120 VAC. They didn't hold the solid wires they tried as solidly as the real WAGO. ; They used wires like romex 14 or 12 gauge. Low voltage wires for LEDs, thermostats and the like, maybe?
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