Small Cabin

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 08:42am
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Just a couple of things that jumped out...

Starlink averages ~35/40W after start up. Your usage is likely high there.

Refrigerators and freezers do not "run" 24/7 but rather figure 8 hours/day.

8 x 280ah, 12v wired for 48v will be: 560ah@ 48v not 14,336ah

Is Sungold tier 1 equipment? The best advice we had when designing our system was to buy high quality equipment (we went Schneider but in retrospect I would now use Victron). The system was installed 8 years ago and other than "operator error" damaging our first set of batteries, everything functions without a problem.

BTW just for reference, we have 2,500w of solar, 400ah @ 48v/ ~20kwh, a 4,000w inverter 120/240. We run a 10cuft Magic Chef refridgerator, a 3cuft freezer, a small dishwasher (huge power hog! So only used on sunny days) microwave and of course lights, fans, Starlink and tv. We have never needed "more wattage output" and can go without sun for 3-4 days with a bit of conservation.

Hope this helps a bit. The design part is always a challenge!

MtnDon
Member

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 09:36am - Edited by: MtnDon
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Stop buying stuff until you really know what you need.

I second the thought of buying top tier products. My system was installed in 2009 and except for one lightening strike, I would likely have the same hardware in operation.

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 10:21am
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Do you really need 240v and 6.5kw inverter? With all that stuff you want to run I think a 3kw would be totaly fine. As for the batteries run the 12v batteries in series. Then if you want more add another series string.

Have you fixed the array to get more sun?

I also think the chest freezer and fridge useage number is to high by quite a bit. My 4.5cuft fridge with separate top freezer uses generaly 1,400kwh a day and runs generaly 50% of the time.

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 10:27am
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Also spend the $100 and get the victron smart shunt. It can tell you SOC and solar production via a chart.

zorro
Member

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 10:29am - Edited by: zorro
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Brettny..........

Yeah I think i may have overestimated the power use - but I am ok with that as that was one area I messed up in my current system and likely undersized my set up

Agreed - i really do not need 240V at all - nothing runs at 240v in the cabin

As for the 6.5kw inverter - only reason i looked at that is due to the option of having a lot of panels without overloading the inverter with Volts

A 3000/3.5kw inverter is probably ok - but cant seem to find many/any which will allow me a lot of panels without creating issues

And my plan this time around is to put them on the roof - that clearly has risks and issue for the cabin (leaks!!), but will give me great exposure from around 9am - till 6pm every day.............even with all of the trees around

So i just need to make sure this new system is big enough this time around

I put the original system in 5 years ago when we built the cabin and to be honest, tried to minimize costs at that time due to all I was spending on the cabin build...........clearly that was a mistake and I cant afford to do that again

Thanks again for the reminder for the smart shunt - that is in my basket!

Any recommendations on an AIO Inverter?

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 11:33am - Edited by: travellerw
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Ok.. I have a couple of questions and comments.

Questions first!
1. Are you full time at the cabin, or do you leave it and are only there occasionally.
2. Snow! Are you in a snowy location? What is the snow loading
3. Cold. Are you planning to charge the batts in cold (below -0C)
4. The 2/0 cables, do they go between batteries are from the battery to the inverter?

Comments!
As others have said, slow down a bit, think it through and do the maths before pulling the trigger on items. There are 100s of ways to skin this cat and unfortunately many pitfalls too.

I would stay away from AIO stuff unless you are willing to spend on grid tie level inverters. Stuff like Sol-Ark, Luxpower, EG4. Even then its a single point of failure.

A better solution would be Victron components. Something like a Multiplus II 3VA paired with a couple/three SmartSolar MPPT chargers. This will allow you to configure the panels most efficiently (series-parallel depending on shade). This also provides redundancy in the event of a failure.

Victron does have the EasySolar II line that is an AIO, but I think it may be 50hz only.

My final comment is to have a system monitor (like a Victron BMV-700). I'm shocked at how many people are running systems without something like that! Its crazy as you are completely blind to you usage/production numbers. A BMV-700 would have saved you original batteries by showing you over draw.

I wanted to list my system as I think it may be an eye opener to you (on how much you might be overestimating).

2200W of solar feeding 48V FLA (8 golf cart batteries). A Growatt 3000 (do not buy) AIO feeding the cabin. Victron SmartSolar MPPT controllers (two). All backed up by a 3500W gasoline generator(can't remember the last time we needed it though).

We run.
48" industrial ceiling fan (24/7)
6.8 cu ft stand up freezer, converted to fridge
120V LED lights throughout cabin (as needed)
120V RV style water pump
Laptop chargers X 2
Cellphone charger X2
Internet router (cellular based)
Keurig (4 coffees in the morning)

Occasional items!
Mini-Split AC (only run during the day when sunny)
Air Fryer (usual run is 30 min)
Wood splitter
Mig Welder
Stick welder

P.S. The Keurig is a crazy device. It draws like 1650W for 1 minute before settling to about 650W for the last 30 seconds.

SCSJeff
Member

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 11:45am
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Note on the (4) 12v batts in series: (assuming they are LFP)

Completely charge them to 100% individually before connecting them in series. And then keep a close eye on them as time goes. They can have a tendency to get out of balance. You may need to either disconnect them periodically and charge again individually or add an active balancer to them. (That would be my solution)

zorro
Member

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 12:14pm
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So here is what I have currently….

8 x Golf cart batteries in 24v set up
3x340w panels (badly shaded now and need to be moved)
1500w 24v sine wave inverter (think this is too small for what I use now)
60amp Mppt controller
Battery charger from generator
12000 peak on gas/8500w on propane generator

I destroyed my batteries either by over use or under charge due to panels being shaded or a combination of both

So my 1st step is to move the panels on the roof and I think increase the number

In terms of your questions…….

I am not full time, but this year I have spent around 3 months there full time from end of April

Not there just now but will be back in 2 weeks through to the 2nd week in October

We don’t spend much time there in the depths of winter (Adirondacks) as Adirondacks in 2025 appears to be in the range of -9°F to near -20°F………….and I know charging in the winter is not recommended

In terms of the cables I have - they are battery to battery right now - I can’t recall the gauge of the battery to charge controller

I assume they will need to be at least 2/0 or bigger?

Yeah I am coming at this pretty raw TBH and trying to read and watch as much as I can to try to get up to speed

I like the idea of an AIO for ease of use, fitting, etc, but do realize there are 3+ components in there all subject to fail, destroying the full unit

In an ideal world I would also like to run my on demand water heater and deep well pump from solar, but I need to get more info on those items first in terms of power usage - both run off the generator right now which is a PIA

So happy to take any advice or recommendations on anything as I am really trying to get up to speed in this stuff and clearly 1 step forward and 2 steps back right now

And thanks for the tip in charging them first - I have also been recommended a 48v battery balancer for the system to try to keep them balanced

gcrank1
Member

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 12:23pm
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Be aware that not all LFP bats can be series connected.
I submit that if you do the array improvements, ensure all wire gauges are correct for the loads And that ALL connections are properly done, hook up the fully charged LFP's then try it out with the inverter, etc that you already have for the usage you are currently doing It All Might Work.
You can improve components after that at any time.

zorro
Member

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 12:44pm
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I checked and these Eco Worthy can definitely do series set up

I terms of using the existing equipment - I had thought of that , but a couple of issues/concerns

My new batteries could certainly be set up in a 24v set up - so that would work

My charge controller is at the max I have of 3 panels (1020w) due to voltage limitations - so can’t add any more panels currently

And my Inverter is only 1500w and I feel that is a bit low for what I now need

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 02:20pm
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Ok, some things to think about based on your response!

1. Roof loading. Around here you cannot put panels on a roof without an engineer to sign off. Panels are pretty heavy, they increase roof heating, capture more snow and require roof penetrations. ALL of that must be accounted for by an engineer (if doing it by code).
2. Pretty hard to remove snow from panels on the roof. No matter what anyone tells you, snow can reduce your panel output to ZERO if thick enough (about 6 inches).
3. The batteries you bought cannot be charged below 0C (Not just not recommended, you will KILL the batteries in short order if you do. I doubt they will last one winter). Since it sounds like you want the starlink running even in winter, this will be an issue. You may need to come up with a heating solution for them! This is exactly why I run FLA and not LFP!

I do agree that 1500W is probably too low for what you are trying to run. So you will probably need to replace the inverter anyway. Personally I would go 48V as it allows smaller cables and give breathing room in the future.

The MPPT might work if it supports 48V, however you don't list the brand. Some cheaper brands are best used as paper weights. They have very poor software that can't deal with ANY shading (looking at you EPEVER).

Another thing to think about is standby draw when you are away. Most AIOs are designed for big grid tied systems and have crazy high standby draw (at night or when cloudy). Not a huge deal with lots of panels most of the time, but can be a big deal in winter with 5-10 days of cloud and snow covered panels. My Growatt draws more power on standby than my internet router. I have a small 600W Victron inverter that I switch over too when we are away. It has a crazy low draw. You could always run the Starlink off DC power fed directly from the batteries (need a dc to dc converter). Then turn off the inverter when not there (advantage of a separate inverter).

Like I said.. 100s of ways to skin this cat. However, I think you big issue is figuring out what you are doing in the winter. Sure would suck to kill another battery bank, especially an expensive LFP one!

gcrank1
Member

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 02:45pm - Edited by: gcrank1
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For winter use Id be thinking of using a some LA batteries to run the necessaries only with the LFPs totally disconnected and waiting.
The thing about LFPs for me was I really didn't understand what it was going to be like to have essentially 2x the available amp hours/watts to power stuff and how fast they recharge. All that with my old 600w array would have been killer without changing the scc or inverter (because the inv was adequate for our use), but the inverter could have been upsized just fine. I decided to use an inverter with only about 25-30% more capacity than my highest load to help minimize the idle draw.

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 04:47pm
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Quoting: zorro

A 3000/3.5kw inverter is probably ok - but cant seem to find many/any which will allow me a lot of panels without creating issues

Does your current charge controller work with lithium and 48v? If so split the array. A big inverter uses alot of power to so nothing. I have also seen theses AIO units have a really high stand by power.

Nothing is tiring you to 48v now. You could also run 24v.

My cabin with general 120v lights ceiling fan fridge and mini split runs off a 1200w xantrax inverter. we arrive, I start the inverter, fridge and this time of year mini split. So the biggest loads, the fridge and mink split are running full tilt at the same time.

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 06:19pm
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As others have pointed out, the idle draw of many of the lower cost (cheap) inverters is significant. In addition, as I found out the hard way, the low battery cut-off is often not adjustable and set way too low for the health of the batteries... the Giandel 24v/2000w I was using in my shop, which also powered my Starlink over the winter had a pre-set LBCO of 19v. And, the Epever SCC decided at 19v I must have an overcharged 12v system so it refused to chargebthe batteries back up (I could have manually set the SCC to 24v but found that out too late.) I hit the LBCO during the winter a couple years ago and then negative temperatures froze the batteries and ruined them.

If you are considering running Starlink through the winter as I do, here is the solution that worked for me: Separate 24v/1200w Victron inverter (could use a 600w) with 2 x 12v/100ah SELF-HEATING LiTime lifepo4 batteries. These are charged by 750w of solar coupled to a Victron 150/35 MPPT charge controller. The Victron equipment is infinitely settable and has a very low idle draw. With temperatures down to -20F last winter, Starlink was up all winter.... even when the batteries in the camera were too cold to charge and the camera went down.

Food for thought.

zorro
Member

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 07:10pm - Edited by: zorro
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Fantastic info in these posts - thanks very much

My head has melted with some of it but great info

I will look at each point in detail and likely come back with questions

One point - I am REALLY concerned at putting panels on my roof - snow this year was unbelievable and actually ripped my chimney down which I have only just had repaired

Snow depth on the roof was estimated around 24-36”

My issue as you will see from the attached taken I think 2 years ago, there is literally no other place to put them an get good sunshine unless I cut down 20+ massive trees - you can see the panels at the top right - back of the cabin

But I will look at all the other comments over the next few days and try to figure out what to do

Thanks again

Cabin overfly

Steve_S
Member

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 07:44pm
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I could go really deep on this thread, ohhh could I but holding off. PHEW for the readers who get bored with my long running commentaries.

KISS Applied.
I am 100% off offgrid rural & remote. No Grid here, it's $75k away and staying out there.
I run with 24V LFP, 51kWh of Batteries. 6 packs of 24V/280AH in Parallel setup as One Bank. Each with smart BMS', with built in balancers, communications and more.

I REFUSE to use an AIO because they are much less efficient (85-88% efficient and have a have a terrible Idle Load even in powersdave (ECO MODE) and their built-in solar controllers are mediocre at best. Seriously, you have to way overpanel to get the most out of them... This applies to Tier-3 (value grade) all the way up to recent Tier-1 (Premium).

I have 2 Solar Arrays:
1- 8x260W (2080W) setup as 4 in series string, 2 parallel strings. This provided up to 200VDC and can go up to 2110W. The Solar Controller is a Midnite Classic 200 that gives me 78A Charge.
2- 6x395W (2370W) setup as 2S3P (3 in series x 3 Parallel strings) This provides up to 150VDC and can reach 2410W. Solar Controller is a Midnite Classic 150 that provides 92A Charge.
* Midnite Classics have HyperVOC which allows for higher inputs in cold & direct sun, basically a 25% overage.
-SCC's are linked and work in tandem.
- These are close to $1,000 USD each, can be found on sale for $800 ish +/- each. Tier-1 Premium !!

My Inverter is a Samlex 24V 4000W Pure Sine LOW Frequency Inverter/Charger with a Massive Torodial Coil. Made in Taiwan ! Because it is Low Frequency, it can deliver up to 4000WX3 or 12,000W for Surge handling. These are 97% Efficient and have a Very Low idle draw (8 watts on ecomode, 11 watts standard standby) so Very Minimal Overhead. Mine puts out 120VAC only but they now have a 240V model available. The Charger system in this can deliver 100A Charge, I set mine to be polite at 80A to allow for full passthrough while charging. NOTE: Samlex is Tier-1 Premium and ran about $2200USD (before the tariff nonsense, so who knows now.)

I run everything off my inverter.
I use between 3.4-4.0 kWh per day, year round !
That runs everything for me.

Deep Well Grundfos Water pump, SQ5-Soft Start 120V model, starts at 550W and stages up to 1200W by the time it reaches 52PSI cutoff. That is pushing up 280' to 50 Gal Pressure tank then 75' to house through a 3 stage filtering system. Never notice pressure drop.

120V Fridge, uses 515kw per year. Mine is "Danby" but also Magic Chef and Midea are the same.

All lights are 120V LED and I have lots if I need them. Closets & storage etc are also equipped with lights.

I've run my 120V MIG, 3HP 2-stage Compressor and assorted powertools like Table saw, Chop Saw, Mitre Saw etc. AND of course charging a wall of DeWalt tool batts too !

Also the usuals like Microwave, Coffee Maker (no warmer, thermos carafe) and so on as found in any home.

My Solar is fixed ground mount aimed directly south only and it works fine for me.
-----------------------------------------
More ideal would have been 3 Solar Arrays with 3 controllers. 1 pointed east, 1 pointed south and one pointed west to maximize daily generation through the day. NOTE I am quite North near Algonquin Park Ontario so winter hours truly suck in Jan/Feb.. oi...
----------------------------------------
IF I was building "today" I would use Victron Inverter/Charger with 240VAC output & Victron SCC's . 24V would work but 48V would be better BUT I would build my own batteries to make use of 280-310AH cells with Smart BMS like I use and so on. NONE of those 48V/100AH Battery packs commonly sold these days. NB: 1x48V/310AH Battery = 310AH cells, X 16 Cells for 48V = 96kg/211lbs +/- a bit with case etc.

The Bonus with Victron and a quality Smart BMS, all of it can be connected & managed with ONE piece of software, full monitoring, configuration and management and it all works perfectly and easily.

I would certainly go with a 240V system because you still get all the 120V you want + the 240V for whatever heavies you want, including a Level-2 EV Charger or to connect an EV with V2L/V2H capabilities via a bidirectional port charger.

*** Thanks to Tariff Mania, I no longer have a clue as to what pricing & availability in the US is and will be. I do know there is already some terribly nasty things happening and even US Manufacturers like Midnite are hitting $$$ walls.

I hope this helps somewhat and if you have extra questions in specific, I will check back in and try to answer if I can. If you want a more detailed assisted plan, I "may" be able to help but this stuff is no longer a main focus for me as life has taken some twists & turns (not for the better) and my focus is elsewhere these days.

Steve

zorro
Member

# Posted: 31 Jul 2025 11:23pm
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Thanks Steve

I will look through your post as well and come back with some questions I am sure

I wish you the best for whatever is happening in your life and that you are well

# Posted: 1 Aug 2025 05:37am - Edited by: Brettny
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Quoting: zorro

One point - I am REALLY concerned at putting panels on my roof - snow this year was unbelievable and actually ripped my chimney down which I have only just had repaired

Snow depth on the roof was estimated around 24-36

I have snow and pannel on my roof. However I have a gambrel/barn style roof. Having them on the flatter part of the roof kind of sucks for snow country as there really hard to clean off. On top of that I get lake effect snow so it could snow a bit every day for weeks. I also dont live there so my PV output really sucks in the winter. However I have a fix for that. This fall I'm going to put a second array at the top of the steel section of roof. This does two things. It will make the array more vertical (facing south) and let the snow slide off. I'm going to use a 2nd charge controller so the change from summer to winter array is maintenance free.

If you plan on running star link all winter when your not there I would get a tiny little inverter and a second array...or just accept that it's going to kill the batteries and when you get there will have no battery power.

24-30in of snow...no way would i be leaving that on any roof. It's just to much weight and potential water damage issues when roof rakes are really cheap. With a metal roof and that much snow I'm suprised the chimney is still on.

Here's a roof bracket that's fairly cheap and you can bolt a rack or uni strut onto it. I'm useing uni strut on mine.

https://www.solar-electric.com/s5-versabracket-47.html?campaignid=17284435092&adgroup id=&creative=&matchtype=&network=x&device=m&keyword=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1728 7735330&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhafEBhCcARIsAEGZEKI6TKIonaWqXJC9d1kdgRohQpx7ZJGcXZyyIJi-25toElw SC03jmU8aAnsuEALw_wcB

zorro
Member

# Posted: 3 Aug 2025 10:14am - Edited by: zorro
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Thanks for all of this info - really helpful and appreciated..............though some of it I don't fully grasp as yet!

For info - I am not at the cabin most of the winter and it is left totally isolated - the road gets anything for 3-4 feet of snow at times and only accessible by snow mobile..............and I live way out of state, so not there in winter at all

Normally, last time at the cabin is Thanksgiving (at the latest) and then not back again till maybe March time

NOTHING runs during that period (not even Starlink) and the only thing still running is the CC to try to maintain the batteries over the winter period

That is why the significant snow build up happens on the roof and why my chimney got ripped down this year - i saw the snow building up using my trail camera and called a guy in the area who was doing snow clearing - he was already 4-6 weeks booked out!!

As for the batteries during winter, they do have a BMS built in, which assuming that works, should protect them during the worst temps....

[Low-Temperature Protection] This 12V lithium battery features a 200A BMS with multiple protections, including low-temperature protection. Charging stops below 19.4°F (-7°C) and resumes above 32°F (0°C), while discharging halts below -4°F (-20°C) to prevent damage, ensuring stability in harsh conditions.

The batteries will be inside the cabin (utility room at the back), though will still be subject to the harsh winter temps when nobody is there

So I have been thinking about what I should do the last few days based on all of the above info and I think my best bet is to try to keep it as simple as possible

I REALLY don't want to put any panels on my roof and leaves me really concerned at the prospect

So I think I have found another ground spot - not perfect, but it could/should work in conjunction with my current panels

So as a reminder, my system is;

- 8 x Golf cart batteries in 24v set up (essentially DOA)
- 3x340w panels (badly shaded now and need to be moved)
- Samlex 1500w 24v pure sine wave inverter (think this is too small for what I use now)
- 60amp Mppt controller
- Battery charger from generator
- 12000 peak on gas/8500w on propane generator

all wired into the main breaker panels

So here are my current thoughts

Keep a 24V system, to match with my current set up

Other than lack of sunlight due to panel placement, my system ran well, though needs a few upgrades

So, what about this option...........

- Add an extra 4 x 450W panels (ground mounted) - gives me a total of 2820W of PV

- Replace current 1500W inverter with Victron Energy MultiPlus-II Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger for 120 amp Battery, 120V, 5000VA 24-Volt

https://shorturl.at/huQKz

- Purchase a new Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT Tr Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) - Charge Controllers for Solar Panels - 150V, 100 amp, 12/24/36/48-Volt - for 4 new Solar Panels

https://shorturl.at/J029Y

- Attach everything to the 4 new ECO-Worthy 12.8V/280ah Lithium Batteries in a 24V layout (14336wh)

https://shorturl.at/txRaF

and also add in the 2 x Victron Battery balancer

https://shorturl.at/7nCji

And all supported by my Propane/Gas generator when required..............need to check the Victron is ok with this

How is this looking or am I still way off track?

Thanks

# Posted: 3 Aug 2025 03:01pm - Edited by: Nobadays
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Sounds like a nice system with room on the MPPT to add if needed. Quite sure you can feed your generator output into that inverter/charger.

I would suggest you look at including an E-Panel to simplify wiring and.... this is big... it would allow you to bypass your inverter and run generator power directly to the cabin with the flip of a switch (actually 2 switches but only 1 can be on at a time.)

I did not use one of these (have since installed 3 of them on neighbor's systems) on my system and really wish I had! In order for me to bypass the inverter/ solar system I have to manually rewire the generator input to the breaker... a definite PITA!

A LINK to what I am talking about.

zorro
Member

# Posted: 3 Aug 2025 03:16pm
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Thanks for the info

I am actually trying to upgrade and allow me some room for additions down the line, if required

Actually, my cabin was built with exactly that in mind.............if I understand your reply correctly

I have 2 separate breaker boxes - one for solar and one for the generator and the good thing is they are right beside each other

Around 50% of the outlets are generator run and 50% for solar

The generator panel also has all the breakers for the deep water well pump and the hot water on demand system

Its good, but at times a PIA if I just want to make a coffee and need to turn the generator on - I need to speak to an electrician to see if some of the wiring can be moved from the generator panel to the solar panel box so I can run most outlets on solar, once I do some of these upgrades

# Posted: 3 Aug 2025 07:11pm
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That inverter has a huge, 120amp battery charger built in. So you will be able to run your generator to the inverter... through an E-Panel is best... to allow you to charge your batteries as well as supply the cabin with electric at the same time.

I think most systems of this size don't normally run circuits dedicated to solar and/or generator. Usually the circuits would be combined as in a normal home.

With a small solar system it probably makes sense to have separate circuits because of loads that might be to heavy for a small inverter.

# Posted: 3 Aug 2025 07:37pm
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To be clear... I'm not completely sure the E-Panel I posted the link to is the correct one for your application. A call to the guys a NAZ where that link takes you would put you in contact with really helpful folks that could guide you in getting the right panel.

# Posted: 3 Aug 2025 09:06pm - Edited by: travellerw
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A couple of thoughts..

A 5000W inverter @ 24V is pulling close to 230A with losses. Make sure you size your cables correctly. (This is why I prefer 48V)

That inverter has a built in auto switch. That means you start the generator and it switches to providing power via generator (happens so quickly that devices just keep working). Turn the generator off and it reverts back to inverter power. So you don't need multiple breaker panels. Everything runs through the inverter and it controls the power depending on the source. (it has other cool features like power boost)

Check Facebook marketplace or craigslist for solar panels. Many manufacturers are phasing out some models to be replaced with higher voltage models. There are some STUPID good deals out there. I just bought brand new Jinko 540 bifacial panels for $200cdn each ($145USD).

Really do consider a battery monitoring shunt. I prefer the Victron BMV-700. Personally, I think its essential for any system and just can't understand how people run without a shunt. It tells you exactly how much energy you are putting in and taking out.

Hot water... Sigh.. For me, I just ended up going for propane. The amount of propane we use is so small (like $20/year) that I didn't worry about it. It made things so much easier once I made the decision. I don't have to run a generator and I have literally unlimited amounts of hot water for pennies.

As a former marine solar consultant I have built or consulted on about 100 different systems. Those systems have used pretty much every brand of hardware out there. Its my opinion that you just can't go wrong with Victron. They build solid equipment as a great price and have great support (In case you don't know, they also open all their protocols and allow integration with DIY stuff).

P.S. That doesn't mean all other brands are crap! Nope.. Midnite, Samlex, Mastervolt, ect all make great stuff too. At the price and quality I just think Victron is the best value at the moment!

# Posted: 4 Aug 2025 09:00am - Edited by: Nobadays
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Quoting: travellerw

That inverter has a built in auto switch.

I didn't see that... good catch!

Edit: Read the given information, seems it will work grid tied and/or off-grid with a generator. I do not see that it has a transfer switch or bypass function. Talking to a solar engineer (the crew at NAZ are very helpful) will insure getting the appropriate equipment.

zorro
Member

# Posted: 4 Aug 2025 09:44am - Edited by: zorro
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Thanks for the info guys

Interesting thing on Victron

They quote their Inverters in VA and not Watts

It seems that the 5000VA inverter is equivalent to 4000w from what I can find out

“ A 5000 VA Victron inverter, like the MultiPlus-II or Quattro, is roughly equivalent to 4000 watts (W) of output power. This is because VA (Volt-Amps) is a measure of apparent power, while watts is a measure of real power. The difference is due to the power factor, which for Victron inverters is typically around 0.8. ”

Still big enough for my needs but seems like an odd approach to take and maybe a bit confusing - certainly for people like me who are not solar experts!!

The auto transfer switch is also interesting

I hope to try to purchase everything before the end of the year to catch the expiring solar credits this year, which I think is a 30% tax credit come tax filing time?

# Posted: 4 Aug 2025 10:54am
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Quoting: zorro

The auto transfer switch is also interesting

My current inverter has one and thought well il never use that when I bought it. Turns out after some wireing il never own a inverter that dosnt have one. It gives nearly seamless transfer from inverter to generator or generator to inverter. It also makes things even more fool proof.

My generator has a remote start so with that an a inverter with transfer switch I dont even need to leave bed to start the generator and transfer the load.

gcrank1
Member

# Posted: 4 Aug 2025 10:59am
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That's the way I was planning to go too (well, short the remote start gen anyway)