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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2025 03:41pm
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Im reviewing the settings on my old Epever Tracer, which has no lfp setting so its set to user. Don't remember when I set it, my brain is a small percentage of whatever it was. Appreciate any guidance. Seems to be working fine for some reason.
Over disc 14.0
Charge limit 13.8
Over reconnect 13.6
Equalization charge 13.8
Boost charge 13.8
Float charge 13.6
Boost reconnect 13.3
Low reconnect 12.6
Under reconnect 12.2
Low disc 11.1
Discharge limit 11.0
Equalization time 0
Boost time 180 min
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 10 Sep 2025 08:41pm
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You seem to have an older version of the software with different names for some settings. You may have to do some googleing to connect the dots. Here are the basic settings I used.
Absorption Time = 240 min (boost time)
Over Disc = 3.475 per cell (13.9V)
CC bulk = 3.45v per cell (13.8V)
CV absorption = 3.45v per cell (13.8V)
FLOAT = 3.3V per cell (13.2V)
Boost Reconnect 3.15V (12.6V)
LVCO-3.1v per cell (12.4v)
Those numbers are pretty conservative and more about extending the life of the batteries than maximum power.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2025 10:34am
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Thanks Trav. Pretty similar to what im doing. And lower than what epever lists for their lfp settings on their AN controller.
I’ve decided to keep that spare Siemens bank feeding the cabin bank lfps, it kicks in about an amp. Its hooked to my spare Tracer, now set at FLP. I cant just hook it to my main Tracer ive read because of the differences in panel voltages (80 or so vs 34) without rewiring.
The other option would be to just set it to GEL.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 11 Sep 2025 05:19pm
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So many of the old recommendations for boost on LFP was 14.6 for a 12v bat, more than I want to go.
Iirc Steve_S recommends 13.8 for a regularly cycled bat (as in a solar set up), for my 'charge at home' Ive been using 14.2 so the BMS has a chance to do some cell balancing, seems to be working as Im getting more beans out of my bats.
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Steve_S
Member
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# Posted: 15 Sep 2025 06:18am
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I've previously posted optimal settings for all grades of LFP from bulk to A+ that work well, even with 'lazy' cells. I don't remember the exact threads and do not have PC access to web at this time. I'm stuck using the cursed phone/web. Absorb to 3.450 volts per cell and float at 3.425/3.420, and they'll settle between 3.390/3.400 pending on cell/pack state.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 15 Sep 2025 09:56am
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Hi Steve,
Yep those are the figures my SCC is set at per your earlier recommendations. One exception is when I use the Meanwell charger through the genny, that is set at 14.6 as lowering it drops the amps way down. When thats going and bank voltage goes up the red overcharge warning light gets lit on the SCC. Only runs for brief periods, doesn't seem to bother the bank.
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 15 Sep 2025 11:07pm
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Quoting: Steve_S Absorb to 3.450 volts per cell and float at 3.425/3.420, and they'll settle between 3.390/3.400 pending on cell/pack state.
I'm extra conservative and never floated that high. I always set my float to 3.3 per cell. I know I was throwing power away, but LFP used to be so expensive and I was willing to trade power for longevity.
I'm still in contact with the people who own our old boat and the Winston pack is still going strong. Its been cycled daily with those settings for 7.5 years now. Its never been plugged into shore power and they don't even have a generator anymore. They said they ran the generator only a handful of times in 5 years so got rid of it.
I wished I kept contact with the other boats I built systems for. Would be interesting to know how many are still alive and serviceable. Ours was the only one I used Winston on, the rest was mostly Battleborn.
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FishHog
Member
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2025 07:01am
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Aren't those levels a little low for cell balancing? For daily use, sure, but wouldn't you like to bring them up the odd time to keep things balanced?
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Steve_S
Member
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2025 12:12pm
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You are not doing yourself or your batteries any favours by under charging and staying under the Working Voltage range. But unlike old Lead, AGM etc, there is NO HARM caused by doing so, simply because LFP like most other 'true' lithium based cells do not develop 'memories'. We all remember LimHi and other earlier chemistries that did develop memories.
Most smartBMS systems with balancing usually kick in above 3.330vpc. there are massive differences between Active vs Passive balancing. Passive is essentially useless with cells over 50AH unless they are really well Matched and Batched. Even with that, over 100AH passive does very little.
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2025 03:59pm
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Quoting: FishHog Aren't those levels a little low for cell balancing? For daily use, sure, but wouldn't you like to bring them up the odd time to keep things balanced?
That pack had a VERY rudimentary BMS. It wasn't capable of actively balancing the cells. The pack was made of 4 Winston 400Ah cells and the "BMS" was really just a high/low voltage cut (monitored at the individual cells).
Like I said, I'm still in contact with them and they do check the pack balance yearly. In its entire life it has never needed rebalancing. I top balanced it by hand when I put it in service and it has remained balanced for 7.5 years.
As to the other systems I built. Unfortunately I'm not in contact with any of them anymore (well, actually just one). However, in the 4 years I was consulting and building systems, I didn't have any failures. I would make recommendations for charging settings, but ultimately it was the owners that made the call. Some boats did choose higher settings. Usually whatever Battleborn, Relion , Dakota or whatever brand of battery we used recommended.
I do know of one cruiser that was using pretty much the exact settings I posted. He was a liveaboard so cycled the pack every day. His pack turned 15 in 2023 and was still going strong when he sold the boat.
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FishHog
Member
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2025 04:17pm
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Thanks for the replies gents.
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