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SoMNer
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# Posted: 26 Jan 2012 12:35 - Edited by: SoMNer
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Hello there, Been lurking for some time. I searched for quite some time but could not find any topics regarding these specific heaters and cabin size. I am in the process of planning a 12x16 cabin for northern MN. I would be using 2x4 construction with standard R13 insulation. It will be used as a bunk house for snowmobiling in the winter. Would a 7,500 BTU direct vented heater be enough for a 0 degree night?
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wakeslayer
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# Posted: 26 Jan 2012 18:11
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hi
Welcome. Fellow MN resident here. Though my cabin is out of state.
I am thinking that on a cold night that may be a little light on the heat. Even the Big Mr Heater Buddy puts out 18000 BTU's on high, and while once warm, it would keep it warm, getting it there would take a while. I used a regular Mr Heater Buddy at my old 10x16 cabin, and even over night it never got what I would call cozy at 9000 BTU.
Also, I would for sure be using 2x6 and R19. Minnesota does not mess around on a cold night, and what if it is -30 or worse?? And windy... Brrr
Just my opinion.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 26 Jan 2012 18:28 - Edited by: MtnDon
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A very rough guide to how many BTU's is needed is the following...
Multiply the interior dimensions (width x length x height in feet) x 0.133 x degrees rise = BTU's/hour.
Degrees rise means if it's 0 F outside and you want to keep the interior at 65 F, that is a 65 degree rise.
12x16x8x0.133x65 = 13278 BTU/hr.
That is a rough guide, figuring 2x4 walls, a window or two, a door, average air sealing. Unless very well sealed/insulated err on the conservative size and choose larger heaters.
Quoting: wakeslayer 2x6 and R19
Keep in mind a 2x6 is 5 1/2" deep while typical R19 fiberglass insulation is made to fit in a 6 1/4" space. Go figure? When compressed it = about R18. There is r21 made specifically to fit in 5 1/2". Sometimes harder to find but it is made.
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SoMNer
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# Posted: 26 Jan 2012 19:13
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Thanks for the replies. I was thinking that would be on the small side. I will probably step up to an 18k model.
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