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bhebby
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 10:17
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So I am about to finish the wood stove installation . My question is do I need to remove the hemlock board that make up my interior wall before placing the heat shield over it? I was planning on installing a some concrete board with one inch standoffs and proper spacing off the floor to allow air flow etc. or should I mount the concrete board to the wall and then use a metal heat shield that is shimmed away from the concrete board? I have gotten conflicting opinions from two different fireplace shops. I have adhered to the mfg standards for clearances and I am also using double wall interior pipe allowing me a tighter tolerance,I just want it to be safe. It's a small jotul rated for 1,000 sq ft and I am about 250 soft I don't imagine I will ever get it ripping hot because it will blow me out of there. Thanks in advance for the help.
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groingo
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 10:44
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Sounds like you have it figured just fine, I have a 200 square foot cabin with a small Waterford stove and learned that small cut wood is your friend especially in a small space, makes it much easier to control the burn and nice wide opening windows for when you forget to use the small wood.
If you have any shielding or spacing concerns you may want to visit the Jotul site and download the stove manual which should have proper installation suggestions and specs.
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GomerPile
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 11:14
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You followed the manufacturers specs for clearances to combustables? or to a wall mounted heat shield?
Typically the spec for a wall mounted heat shield, you use a steel plate mounted on one inch ceramic standoffs.
If you followed the spec to combustables no wall shield is needed. I would run the stove and check to see if you hold your hand on the wall during operation. Some people measure the temp and want to see no greater than 100 degrees over ambient give or take.
Over time wood walls can break down when subjected to repeated heating cooling cycles which can lower their combustable temperature.
If you are using the distance to combustables spec, a piece of cement board and small air gap will add a margin of safety.
BEWARE BEWARE BEWARE...READ THIS: Not all cement board is suitable for use in wood stove backing. Some products used foam balls in the cement to make it easier to handle. These kinds of cement boards are not suitable for heat shield use.
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bhebby
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 11:32
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I have met the clearances according to jotul a manual. I also reduced my clearances by using double wall black pipe versus single wall. My first wood stove and I want to make sure it's over safe I guess....!.?! Thanks
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GomerPile
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 11:41
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There is typically several clearances given....view my attachment and see that there is one for protected surfaces and one for unprotected.
If you used the unprotected number then adding some backing material is not critical but will add some additional safety margin (which sounds like what you want).
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bhebby
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 11:49
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One shop told me to place 5/8 fire drywall or dura rock on the wall over the insulated 2x4 wall plus the layer of rough cut hemlock. I would like to be able do that without taking down more hemlock and carving apart the inside. So my plan is put the dura rock down and the use like a metal roofing or another sheet of dura rock over it that separated by metal studs giving me a one inch+ air gap between the two and also keeping it off the floor allowing air flow form the bottom up?
I am wondering if the heat will be different from the propane wall heater? It seems like the wall heater warm air stays at the top of the camp, I might need to invest in one of them wood stove fans? I know heat is heat but I hope it allows for a more even heat.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 13:19 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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The distance ss from the stove to combustable. So removing hemlock and adding sheetrock wont give you much more than the thinckess of the sheetrock. They specify X amount of inches from combustible. So just adding dura rock over the wall does you no good as far as decreasing your clearance. Now putting the cement board in from of it will keep a hot spark that could roll on the hearth from hitting the wooden wall. But replacing it with sheetrock will do the same too. You will gain the advantage of having an air space between the wall and what ever you add. Or a sheild could be made to fit around the back of the stove, maybe 1/8" plate and bent to fit around the stove. But it can jsut be free standing, it must be anchored permanantly, ie bolted to the hearth or stove itself.
I'd put up cemenrt board then cover it with stone for looks and fireproofing.
The info here I got from my installer. I had mine professionally installed. I did the hearth and stone work, he did everything else, ie the flue and he set the stove back according to the mfg of the stoves specs.
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bhebby
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 20:24
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toyota_mdt_tech
Tech you would remove the hemlock or not? I could get something bent to go around it like you mentioned. Good ideas, I have to move fast I'm worried about functionality/ safety first then aesthetics thanks
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bhebby
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 21:09
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toyota_mdt_tech
Tech you would remove the hemlock or not? I could get something bent to go around it like you mentioned. Good ideas, I have to move fast I'm worried about functionality/ safety first then aesthetics thanks its hunting season!
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 21:14 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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On mine, I just made sure my stove met the clearance they wanted by the mfg, then added 1/2" cement board right over the top of my wooden walls, then added stone work over that. My stove is setting on top of a factory made pad for a corner. I'd proceed with that. And if you dont quite have the clearance, you can add the shield. It would look neater than a piece of something mounted to standoffs.
Removing the hemlock would not do anything for you. You would just measure from the wooden studs to the stove is all, you'd gain 1/2" is all. On mine, the stone work and the cement board behind it does nothing, they still want the stove measurement from the wooden wall behind it. But it is fire proof if a spark was to roll back there. You can get stoves with shielding on it already and made to set much closer. But those stoves are usually much more $$$. I have found killer wood stove prices on craiglist in the summer.
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bhebby
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 21:16
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Agreed when does the wallet bleeding stop? Thanks
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 21:29 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: bhebby Agreed when does the wallet bleeding stop? Thanks
That bleeding stops when you have purchased your pipe that goes through you ceiling and outside. Its about $200 for a 4 foot chunk and is required from the ceiling upward. The support box is the 12" square part you mount in the ceiling and from there up, is the pricey stuff.
The top of the pipe must be 2 feet above the peak or 10 feet away. This means if you have a steep pitched roof and want your flue on an outer area wall near the lower part of the roof, you will needs lots of that spendy pipe.
A small tidbit of advice for you people with the support box in your attic. Its just air space and its open from the top in the attic. Squirrels tend to store cones in there si they make it into your attic space. My installer told me to always check in the support box for squirrel debris, many fires start that way. I would wrap it with a fine 1/4" mesh I suppose. So far, I have just crawled into the attic and checked it. So far, my place has remain varmint free.
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Dillio187
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 21:51
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how would you do it for a vaulted ceiling? I'm debating going up to the roof peak and then out the side or slightly moving the pipe and going just to the side of the roof peak. My stove is directly in the middle of the wall and directly below the roof peak.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 22:35
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There are special mounts for cathedral ceilings. Some pipe sticks up through the roofing and some hangs below where it connects to the black pipe.
If at all possible place the stove to have a straight up run of pipe. If that is not possible try to use the slightest bend possible; 30 degree elbow at a maximum, 15 degree better.
Whereas a chimney near the peak has some advantages it is also very high up when it comes time to clean it.
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TomChum
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2012 23:56 - Edited by: TomChum
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Quoting: MtnDon Whereas a chimney near the peak has some advantages it is also very high up when it comes time to clean it.
As usual, good advice beyond the original question.
BHebby, have a look at this heatshield thread too
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bhebby
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# Posted: 16 Oct 2012 14:56
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I have the pipe three sections to get me 2' above the roof,cathedral box with 8/12 pitch roof kit all installed. This heat and wall protection is the hold up. I would like to go right over the wood inside and I think I am going to with the concrete board and then leave a one inch air gap for the shield.thanks to all who replied
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bhebby
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# Posted: 22 Oct 2012 12:58
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So the install was interesting. Had to install the stove and pipe and then jack it up and slide the hearth pad underneath. I over bought interior pipe and we had to use what we had on site and get creative. Awesome little stove. I got out of the project for about 1k which for everything wasn't bad,thanks to craigslist. The wall does not even get close to hot and it holds a fire. I only have two sections of pipe up for the chimney now. Might add the third but it seemed to draft well once heated up. Thanks to all who landed some advice,it was intimidating at first.
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rayyy
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2012 17:54
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I have alway's placed a piece of steel like coragated tin roofing behind my coal and wood stoves shimmed well away from the wall surface.Even a double layer wouldn't hurt.Some stoves come with a metal heat shield allready attached.
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optimistic
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2012 09:10
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Check out this method - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bs3jbJWVSWU&feature=plcp
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Jeddiah
Member
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# Posted: 17 Jan 2017 10:23
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toyota_mdt_tech
Hi there
your fireplace looks very great. I am currantly to prepair a little room for me whisch should include such a nice fireplace with a wodden frame. Could you give me the height and wide of your back wall?
Jeddiah
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 17 Jan 2017 14:25
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Quoting: Jeddiah toyota_mdt_techHi thereyour fireplace looks very great. I am currantly to prepair a little room for me whisch should include such a nice fireplace with a wodden frame. Could you give me the height and wide of your back wall?Jeddiah
Jeddiah, I used cement board, a 1/2"X4X8, cut right in half almost. Screwed down. Masonry over the top. Trim the board actually just 1/2" from the center, screw the loner one down first tight into the corner, then the next one butt up into that one. Or one side will be slightly longer from the corner butting if that makes sense. I just make sure my minimum clearance is measured from the wood to the inside wall is at the minimum. The stone is fireproof, but the setbacks remains the same. If you need to get closer, a permanent mounted metal shield to the stove is acceptable too.
That stove you seen in my picture is discarded, had cracks in the cast iron. I have since hand built my own woodstove with 1/4" plate steel, welded water tight. No more cracks and I was able to make it shorter but taller. I have pictures of it in the "my project" thread towards the end.
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 17 Jan 2017 15:39
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How much air space is needed between any shield and a wooden wall surface?
When I build one for the old stoves I have I don't want to just end up heating up the tile or whatever and then having heat transfer to the wood.
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Jeddiah
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2017 04:00
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Thanks for your reply. Your pics in "my project" thread ars also beautiful, even your new stove. For me its not possible, to mount the stove in a corner because the door. Here ist a pic to explain
So I have to create a fireplace at a wall. Could you give me your measures which I´ve marked in your pic
That would be great. Thanks & take care. Here in Germany it ist very difficult to get or build a small hunting cabine. Cramped Country
Jed
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Jeddiah
Member
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2017 04:18
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and additional
How is the edge length auf your wooden cross beam?
Jed
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2017 10:36
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OK, going by memory, I know the stone work is 48" high (4 feet) and the mantle on top is a 4X6 on its side, so its 3.5" thick/tall. 5.5" wide. I just took a typical door header and turned it sideways, routered an edge on it for decorations. Route it all before you cut the inside miter. Use the mitered trimmings for decorative gussets on the mantle itself. The cedar trim on the outer edges is what we call 5/4 decking. Its 3.5" wide and about 1 inch thick. So the wide dimension you are looking for it 51.5" and the overall height is 51.5 but the hearth or tile bottom is about 1" thick, so from top of hearth to top of mantle, I'd say about 49.5"
You will need to convert this to meters of course
Post updates and just pay attention to set backs from stove mfg. Actually, a stove in a corner takes up more space vs along a wall like you want. The stove usually need to set further out from wall in a corner to get min clearances. So your install location has an advantage there.
Here, we have set back of X inches from wall, X inches from side and you want 18" of fire proof hearth in front of the loading door opening. I didn't quite have it, I do now with my shorter but taller home made woodstove now.
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 18 Jan 2017 11:02 - Edited by: KinAlberta
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Looks like a loft or second story, is that right?
To get a corner location, could a new chimney be put through the wall? (To the right of the current location)
Or create a nook for it in the hallway right beside the existing chimney, encroaching slightly into the laundry room.
Or a nook encroaching on that unlabelled space (a storage room maybe?)
Or move the door...
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