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Small Cabin Forum / Off-Grid Living / Powering Cabin with RV panel?
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gcolby
Member
# Posted: 30 Aug 2013 10:11
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hello,

Has anyone ever tried using an RV panel like this one....
http://www.progressivedyn.com/all_in_one_pd4000.html to power a cabin instead of a house-type breaker panel? Hooking batteries in to like a normal RV, and using an RV power cord to attach generator?

I might be over-thinking in an attempt to simplify my install

Thanks!

razmichael
Member
# Posted: 31 Aug 2013 21:16
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In general an RV is set-up to assume 120V power most of the time and batteries are a backup. Lights, water, furnace fan run on 12 volts (normally provided from the 120AC source and big items (air conditioning) run from 120V provided by the camp site. The device you linked to is a converter - main purpose is to provide 12V power from the 120 input (to power the 12 v things), charge the battery when one is installed and distribute both the AC and DC. Normally the batteries are for backup and rarely used by many. There are lots of campers that boondock (camp where no 120 is available) and they will often modify their setup or at least upgrade the batteries. We used a Pop-Up camper for a couple of years before building and I modified the converter and added an inverter so we had lots of 12v and could provide some 120 when needed.

creeky
Member
# Posted: 1 Sep 2013 09:20
Reply 


I would add that, in my experience, the rv converters use a lot of power at idle/running. I boondocked with an rv for two summers, it wasn't until i moved into my "studio" that I discovered how much power the rv used. I went from "not enough" power (off grid / solar) to buying an electric fridge, a dishwasher and a laundry washer. all of which I run while using less power than the rv, propane fridge, used to use.
i swapped out all the rv lights for 12v led auto lights and was generally very conservative with my power use.

gcolby
Member
# Posted: 1 Sep 2013 09:43
Reply 


Those are all great points, I rv boondock quite a bit and forget the idle power drain. Sounds like it makes sense to just put in 2 (normal) 120/12 volt systems. Thanks to both of you for the input!

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