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CootersShabin
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# Posted: 20 Sep 2013 15:01
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Hi there, looking for opinions again. What is the latest on where to buy the most cost effective (new) Stove Pipe and Chimney Pipe? I am looking to do Double Wall 6" Stove Pipe up about 12' to the roof, support etc, and then Double Wall Stainless outside another 10' or so.
Along with that, I have a cool idea (I think) for a woodburner riser. I plan to tile the first 4 feet of the floor (entrance and under wood burner). I have a small Jotul going in, and I thought it would be nice to get the top height of it up to 34" from the floor which means building a 8+ inch riser. Any opinions on this cooking height? Also, being that space is at a premium in most our buildings. I don't want to waste the riser, so I thought why not put storage underneath? This could be for kindling, or fire tools, or maybe even for electrical. I think I'll put the opening to the side rather than straight-on (unless I find a way to hide it), and I think I'll also build the entire riser out of concrete backer board and metal rather than plywood, but I am looking for opinions. Bring them.
Have a great weekend,
Cooter
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jaransont3
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# Posted: 20 Sep 2013 16:46
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We are planning a similar riser/storage space under our propane cookstove at our cabin. Main rational for it is to get the stove top up to the same height has the countertops, but like you we don't want to waste the space so are planning to put a door on it to stash pans and stuff in the space.
I am planning to make our riser out of wood and continue the baseboard molding around it to it looks like a built-in. We have the advantage of not worrying about embers and excessive heat getting to the riser.
Jill and I are both tallish so our countertops are a little higher than the usual 34". Ours are at 36" and it works great for us.
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 20 Sep 2013 17:10
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I felt that the 5\8 cement board was not strong enough to hold a heavy stove so I went with plywood under it ..
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CootersShabin
Member
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# Posted: 1 Oct 2013 16:52
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Hey jaransont3, Is that purchased barn door hanging hardware pictured there? That is another project of mine that I want to make a wall out of. Picture 3 or even 4 panels on the same amount of rails that collapses to open up a room. This is much in the future, but if you have any tips on hardware or ideas to make it cheaply I am interested. All I have seen is pretty pricey...
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Steve961
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# Posted: 1 Oct 2013 17:55
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Cooter:
Depending on your heating needs, you may want to reconsider the indoor portion of the double wall pipe. I originally installed double wall pipe for a small Jotul 602 wood stove in my 450 sq ft cabin. I was having trouble keeping my cabin warm the first winter with that setup, and had started looking at larger stoves. It was suggested that I replace the double wall with single wall, and it was like having a new/larger stove. I was losing a LOT of heat with the double wall pipe.
Steve
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 1 Oct 2013 19:58
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Quoting: Steve961 I was losing a LOT of heat with the double wall pipe.
The other side of that coin is that the chimney that was double walled will run hotter and be cleaner... But we do need to keep warm first.
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jaransont3
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# Posted: 2 Oct 2013 01:17
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Quoting: CootersShabin Hey jaransont3, Is that purchased barn door hanging hardware pictured there? That is another project of mine that I want to make a wall out of.
It is actually something I created. Like you, I thought the barn door hardware that was available from the various online and retail sources was too expensive. My wife found two idler pulleys from an automotive v-belt system at a swap meet. I think they were $5 each.
They had a nice cast steel bracket, a steel v-belt pulley, and sealed bearings. Should last forever in this application.
I cut some arrowheads out of 1/8" steel plate and welded them to the brackets to give it a little more style and length. I also welded up a couple of the holes in them and ground off some of the casting marks.
The rail is just a piece of 1/8" thick x 2" wide flat bar that I bought at Menards. It is spaced off the wall with some simple blocks of hardwood.
The system works really good. Very smooth rolling. Here's a better picture....
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CootersShabin
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# Posted: 14 Oct 2013 10:16 - Edited by: CootersShabin
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jaransont3, Awesome Idea. There is no shortage of V-Belt pulleys around me house too, which is great. Thanks for the tip!
Steve and MtDon, I went back and forth on the Double-Wall and I believe I am going to start with it. My riser isn't tacked down to the floor yet so I can see how the Stove works with the rear exhaust rather than the top. I am going to try the rear exhaust on the Jotul with the Double-Wall initially (my stack is all of 20' and stores have been saying the double-wall draws better) and if I can't get the heat I'll try a section or two of single wall and possibly switch to top exhaust. Thanks for the tip.
Cooter
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CootersShabin
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# Posted: 27 Nov 2013 12:11 - Edited by: CootersShabin
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I just want to follow up here. The Riser idea seemed to work perfect on our little Jotul 602. It got some use over the opener for Deer Season, and it was nice having the Stove top up higher off the floor as well as creating a space under the stove (for warming things) that is off the floor.
Steve and MtnDon, I plan to see how a few weekends go up there this Winter, but I do suspect I may swap the lowest section of Double-Wall with Single at some point. We'll see. We got the building up beyond 60 each night (which is more than fine with me), but outside temps weren't all that challenging. However, we were hunting all day, so I am anxious to see how it does heating up the place with a continuous fire over a weekend (which may happen during Black-Powder....we don't stay out all day usually then).
Happy Thanksgiving!
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