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toofewweekends
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# Posted: 30 Jan 2014 01:06
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I've cobbled together a sauna from leftover parts of a falling down cabin on our land. An 8x12 building, with the sauna being about half and a shower/dressing area the other half. Got a wood stove installed, it's insulted and there's a good visqueen vapor barrier throughout. Cedar T&G will go over it soon (a Craigslist find).
Wondering about the floor. Currently there's 3/4" plywood over the joists (insulation underneath). I have cedar 1x2 cedar for the floor. I have some cement board under the wood stove, and will eventually put tile on it. Wondering about adding cement board across the rest of the sauna and putting the cedar floor down on that, nailing on to some small stringers?
Or just nail on to the plywood? Add some more flooring plywood or OSB and nail to that?
How about a floor vapor barrier? Visqueen like the walls? Floor paint and then cedar?
Any wise words are welcome.
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old243
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# Posted: 30 Jan 2014 10:05
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we have a metal floor , galvanized steel. This comes up the wall several inches. drains to a floor drain in the center. Several floor sections sit on this . 1X2 stringers 1x4 cross boards. Easy to take out if you want to clean up. Everything is cedar including walls There is usually lots of water , splashing around. Have 2 inch rigid Styrofoam in walls and ceiling. Saddle tanks, hang on stove sides to heat water. Fill tanks up when you start fire . A barrel of water in the dressing room for cool water. Mirror in dressing room to shave.
Old243
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rockies
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# Posted: 30 Jan 2014 18:22 - Edited by: rockies
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You might want to line the entire room with "Schluter Kerdi" sheets.
http://www.schluter.com/8_1_kerdi.aspx
This is a waterproof system, much better than "water resistant". I see it used on the "Holmes on Homes" TV show all the time to create a waterproof system to prevent water leakage, mold and rot problems. Might be a little expensive, but in such a moisture filled environment it would be worth it. Since the room will probably be smallish, there is also a panel board that has the kerdi membrane already applied, so you just screw it to your studs, seal the seams and screw holes and you're done. Then apply whatever finish you want.
http://www.schluterkerdiboard.com/
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toofewweekends
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# Posted: 31 Jan 2014 01:52
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thanks for the info. I'll pass on the Schluter material, too much of an investment for this kind of a deal. I like the metal floor, but not sure where I would come up with a bargain one at this point. Sounds like a barrier of some sort is good on the floor to avoid water damage.
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SubArcticGuy
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# Posted: 31 Jan 2014 13:01
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I am trying to figure out what to do with the floor in my sauna too. I have had a plywood floor in there for about 6 years now...it is doing okay but I want to renovate the sauna in the next year or two...sand the logs (it is white spruce logs with cedar ceiling and benches), new floor and new wood stove. I was thinking about just putting down a layer of poly and then cedar or something but I like to be able to sweep it out since I currently feed the stove from the inside....I may change that to an outside feed though...it would be much cleaner. I am wondering about a floor of paving stones....fire barrier, heat sink, and moisture barrier all in one. Not sure how I would grout it and do any drainage though.
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old243
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# Posted: 31 Jan 2014 17:40
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I think you can buy galv steel in a roll , possibly 3 foot wide . calk the joints and corners . valley steel for roofing is a possibility. . Our stove is fed from outside the heated area . Old 243
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toofewweekends
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# Posted: 31 Jan 2014 23:32
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So, sauna users, I'm a little unsure of where all this floor moisture is coming from. I expect to heat the place up big time, throw some water on the stones and raise the humidity -- but I'm not thinking there will be a huge amount of water to deal with. Am I missing something? The shower will be in the front/separate space. So just adding water to stones. There is also a small window in the sauna space that can provide some post-sauna ventilation.
I like SubArctic's idea about pavers -- sort of along the lines of my cement board covered w/cedar slats.
Thoughts?
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old243
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# Posted: 1 Feb 2014 21:54
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tofew. we heat water in tanks on the sides of the stove. We have no water pressure for a shower. I get a part pail of cold water, mix in hot water from tanks to proper temperature. Then give myself a good scrubbing. pour clean water over myself. this goes on the floor and down the floor drain. Set up isn't too fancy , but a good place to clean up. Then pour water on hot stones, can make it as hot as you like ,great way to relax, especially if you are a bit chilly We do use a fair bit of water, but have a creek nearby. Old 243
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toofewweekends
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2014 15:52
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243, got it. We'll be doing the shower water in the separate front room, water going out the shower pan and away. Sauna side of the building should be humid, but not so much water on the floor. I like your all-in-one idea, though. Too late for that big a change in my setup.
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leonk
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# Posted: 4 Feb 2014 20:35
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My favorite construction subject 
I am not familiar with Visqueen. Sounds like a thick plastic?
In my home basement sauna I used special foil covered paper. It contains moisture (VB) and reflects heat. It's sandwiched in the wall under the cedar T&G. Try to use clear cedar (no knots) on the benches and where you will touch the walls with your back. Also no screws/nails where you can touch them with bare skin (benches).
Feeding the stove is def better from the first room, not actual steam room.
The floor. In my basement it's tile on slab. I don't wash in the sauna, but I use few quarts of hot water for splashing on walls and rocks on the stove. There's no drain. Whatever water doesn't evaporate, dries up on the floor quickly after.
In separate sauna buildings, the floor is usually made from solid wood in 1-2 layers - sub floor and clean floor. No insulation. Whatever water drips through - no big deal.
While we're on the subject, it's important to make the sauna ceiling and benches of proper height and width.
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toofewweekends
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# Posted: 5 Feb 2014 00:48
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correct, sever mil thick plastic stapled and taped, with clear cedar t&g on top. It will have a cedar floor, 1x2s on stringers. Only my first build from scratch project, so lots of learning.
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2014 10:50
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It's too late, but I use cedar decking tight together over treated joists on treated skids and let all water seep through. I've never seen water come out from under, it just filters into the soil, and that's what it should be doing anyway. I've build at least one hundred saunas.
Owen
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leonk
Member
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2014 11:03
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I am sure that works, but I'd never use treated or plywood/OSB in the sauna, may be only the skids.
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2014 11:24 - Edited by: OwenChristensen
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I agree but, I think the treated joists under the cedar decking are ok. I also use it for the bottom plates, as I wouldn't want them to rot if they did stay wet. I guaranty my buildings for thirty years. That's a long time to have my neck on a chopping block.
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toofewweekends
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# Posted: 10 Feb 2014 00:18
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Interesting idea with letting any water go thru, but uninsulated floors in Alaska are really chilly. And it seems like I would end up with ice issues underneath. We will have a shower that drains thru a pipe to water the brush. Mine probably won't last 30 years, but I might not either!
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AlexW
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# Posted: 17 Jan 2018 15:56
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Hi
You have a question about isolation.
What materials should be insulated for wiring.
I think I should order a heat-resistant silicone shell.
here she is: https://spaprof.com/category/sauna-building/el-cables
It can be used? Or advise better.
Thank you very much for your answer.
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