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herringcove
Member
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# Posted: 18 May 2014 10:29
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Hi,
This is my first time equalizing and I've discovered something strange by watching the charge controller (Outback FM60). I have 3x eclipsal 250 watt panels and 4 rolls surrette s600 in a 12V circuit. I'm trying to equalize two batteries at a time. So 450AH at 12V.
When I initiate equalization mode in the morning, the sun is still in the east and behind thin cloud. The charge controller reads 110watts. The wattage peaked at 360watts. 2 hours later, the sun is closer to perpendicular and shinning bright, the charge controller reads 60watts. The panels are at 45° angle. Later in the day the sun was in the west, we turned the panels to face it and could only get 30watts. In theory we need 360watts to get the 22.5amp charging current that we need to equalize. We only get this at the start of the day, it seems weird the panels lose power under direct sun. Anyone know what we are doing wrong? The charge controller is set to MPPT mode to auto track...
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creeky
Member
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# Posted: 19 May 2014 11:54
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As your batteries charge they get to "equalize" voltage. That's probably around 15v this time of year.
Once they are in "equalize" the amount of power required to keep the batteries at 15v drops.
With my system I'll see 800 watts going into the batteries at 9 a.m. but by noon the equalization is done and the power required has dropped to 200 watts or less.
Btw: When you get to where your batteries are charged or near fully charged, this is a great time to use stuff like microwaves and dishwashers and ... cause the power is free.
one of the sad things about solar power I discovered was when I did my first real annual breakdown on the numbers. I had used 240 kw/hrs of power. Wow. But my system could have created 800 kws of power. I threw away 600 kws. That's when I went out and bought an electric fridge.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 19 May 2014 18:00 - Edited by: MtnDon
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It was not stated whether or not the batteries are at full charge and at full electrolyte level before equalization was attempted. I have always worked under the premise that batteries should be fully charged before equalizing. Refer to Trojan Battery
"Trojan only recommends equalizing when low or wide ranging specific gravity (+/- .015) are detected after fully charging a battery. "
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Quoting: herringcove In theory we need 360watts to get the 22.5amp charging current that we need to equalize.
You have me confused. For equalizing the only set points on the FM60 are the voltage and the time. No way to set the amperage; the FM60 sorts out that and the amperage will be low rather than high. . When the time is up it goes into float. Section 11. EQ—Battery Equalize, page 412 of my FM manual.
To quote: " • The Charge Controller allows the user to set voltages and times of equalization process."
I go by hydrometer readings, checking after the first hour. After that every 30 - 40 minutes until the cells all read the same.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 19 May 2014 23:21 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Also note that the battery temperature sensor, if you have one, does not function during equalizing. Watch the temperature and cease equalizing for a while if the battery fluid reaches 125 F, or bubbles over.
There are variable output DC power supplies that allow setting the voltage and current and those can be used for an equalization. But the FM60, like other MPPT charge controllers don't allow manual current selection.
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creeky
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# Posted: 23 May 2014 11:39
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herringcove. maybe I could have been a bit clearer. Your "equalize" voltage is a set number. Let's say 15.4v. You've been looking at watts and amps when the number to watch is voltage.
Your equalize voltage won't change. But the amperage required to maintain that voltage will change (hence the watts dropped).
So my 800 watts to get to equalize uses 60 amps. You could use any watt/amp number: the only variable here is time. If I was charging at your theoretical 360w/22.5a it would take more time for the voltage to reach 15.4.
But, in response to your concern, by the time the equalize session is ending, though the voltage remains at 15.4, the amperage required to maintain that voltage will have dropped considerably.
So it seems to me everything is working as it should.
There should be some kind of tshirt slogan for offgrid solar. Something like "don't be alarmed by blinking lights." or. "ah, the sound of batteries bubbling in the morning."
ps-I push the manual equalize button on my ts-mppt-60 (ensuring that I equalize on a sunny day) and let the software/hardware do the work.
As recommended, I equalize monthly. Tomorrow in fact. And I water my batteries 5 times annually. Seasonally, plus one for mid summer. This works for me.
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herringcove
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 13:53
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Thank folks! Creeky that makes sense! And yes I can only set the Voltage and time on the charge controller, but I also need enough amperage for the equalization to get started...(I Think!!)
Rolls specifies; "Charge at a low DC current (5 A per 100 AH of battery capacity)." So I need 45Amp current for my 900AH battery bank capacity. And as the required voltage is 15.5V I would in theory need about 700watts to equalize the entire bank. I figured there was a low chance of making 700watts, its variably sunny most days, so I would have to equalize 2 batteries at a time instead (450AH) and only 350watts needed. But its frustrating that I can't even make that on a sunny day...
I see no bubbling in the batteries and when I check the specific gravity every hour it hardly rises at all. What am I doing wrong? 
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 24 May 2014 15:14 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Quoting: herringcove Rolls specifies; "Charge at a low DC current (5 A per 100 AH of battery capacity)."
That sounds like you are reading the Rolls instructions for corrective equalization, not their instructions for preventative equalization. Their preventative instructions simply mention time and voltage. Corrective is for when batteries are not coming up to charge, probably have been abused, badly sulfated, etc. And I believe they aretalking about using one of the "deluxe" chargers where everything can be manually set. (as mentioned in a post above).
Just so we can understand what you are doing....
Are the batteries at full charge before you start equalizing?
Quoting: herringcove I see no bubbling in the batteries
What is the status on the FM60 indicating when you look into the cells and see no bubbling? Is the battery voltage at or very near the equalize set point voltage? Is the status screen indicating EQ time left as EQ n:nn ? When the EQ cycle has been initiated, EQ-MPPT will be displayed.
Running too many AC and/or DC loads can mess up the EQ cycle, too. EQ is best done with all loads removed especially as you might have some loads that could be sensitive to the high voltages used to EQ.
What inverter/charger do you have? If it is capable of EQ and if you have a generator what happens when you use EQ that way?
We have a battery capacity of 630 amp-hours in a 24 volt system. I've never had a equalization cycle not work at all thru the PV and the FM60. I have had an equalization cycle take 2 days to complete (on the automatic setting) when snow interrupted the EQ the first day.
Have you tried the Outback forum? Have you asked Rolls?
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creeky
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# Posted: 25 May 2014 07:56
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Herringcove it does seem odd that you're not getting bubbles.
I would just watch the voltage. To get to 15.5 can take awhile. Like MtnDon I have seen my equalization take two days. I also do not run any extra loads during equalization. My fridge is the exception. And once I see the amperage start to drop I usually turn the internet back on.
So my first question is: are you getting to 15.5 volts? What display do you have?
Two: remember most the "rules" are guidelines. So set your voltage and time ... and emulate Alfred E. is my advice.
As I've mentioned, your batteries can get to 15.5 with almost any input power ... it's just a matter of how much time does it take. To me, it does sound like your system went through the equalization program. You had a peak of 360 (getting your batteries to 15.5v) and your solar input dropped later in the day.
This is to be expected. Your batteries were at 15.5 for equalization. Once the equalize session is over it can take quite a while for your battery voltage to drop back to float (13.6?). So the panels will not be asked for any power until float is reached... hence the 60 and 30 watts. It's all your batteries needed to stay in float.
***
That said. You have 750 watts of panels. I find it odd that you are only getting 360 watts at peak.
Do you have shading on your panels? Also, I think you are in a similar zone to me (Canada). The general rule of thumb is 15 degrees by season. So you set your panels to your latitude in fall/spring (45 degrees). Plus 15 for winter (60). and Minus 15 for summer. My panels are currently (ha. I never get tired of that pun) at 30 degrees.
That would only account for 10-15% of the missing power.
And I've not heard that you need to be fully charged to equalize. I think MtnDon is misreading the documentation. The quote he introduces says, equalize if your cells are seeing a charge variation of "x" after charging. Not charge, then equalize. Quite a different story.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 25 May 2014 12:03 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Quoting: creeky And I've not heard that you need to be fully charged to equalize.
each of these state equalize after charging fully
http://www.trojanbattery.com/Tech-Support/FAQ/Charging.aspx
http://www.enviroharvest.ca/equalizing_batteries.htm
http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/battery/bat_equal.htm
http://www.trojanbattery.com/BatteryMaintenance/Equalizing.aspx
I suppose equalizing will work eventually on a partially charged battery. But before it is complete the charger will have to slowly bring up the charge to full. Depending on how depleted the battery is, that could take longer than necessary if the battery was first charged through bulk and absorb, then placed in equalization. The longer the time spent under the higher voltage provided by equalizing is not good for the batteries. Charge full and then equalize was what I was taught by 2 guys who have spent decades in the business.
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creeky
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# Posted: 27 May 2014 09:13
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While the first link you provide does not say equalize a fully charged battery the last one does. The other two links are cut and paste from the last document.
I have crown batteries and they do not indicate that I need to charge and then equalize. As the morningstar controller I use was designed by engineers and scientists I will let my controller decide how to equalize the batteries. I have the latest firmware installed so I'm using the best known process. Who knows. Perhaps the morningstar is bringing the batteries up to charge and then equalizing within the program. The equalize program does take four hours.
Many of the techniques that you read about were designed for golf cart and industrial users. They are recharging deeply discharged batteries on a daily basis. While RE charging is an entirely different equation. An equation best solved by using a modern solar controller. imho.
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herringcove
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# Posted: 27 May 2014 10:33
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Hi guys,
I apologize for the confusion, I should have been more clear. I am trying to perform corrective equalizing. It's embarrassing to admit, but we had neglected our batteries during the winter, not taking SG readings instead just relying on the inverter for readings. We discovered they weren't holding their charge and after taking SG readings found that they were below 50% (1.170-1.150). We also discovered that the absorption time wasn't set accurately.. It was only absorbing for 2.5hours instead of 6.2 hours. I'm guessing this caused the batteries to slowly loose their charge...
We are only back to the cottage at the weekends, so at the mercy of what the weather is like then. Last weekend, we tried to equalize again, and this time we were getting the 15.5v and 200watts. The batteries bubbled away and at the end of the day the SG reading rose to 1.200.
I hope we haven't ruined the batteries... I was pretty upset about the whole situation, but hey, we learn new things all the time living off-grid. Will definitely not make the same mistake twice!!!
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 27 May 2014 13:31 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Ah! Is that an even 1.200 across the entire bank, or an average.
Is my assumption that you do not have a generator and a charger that can do equalizing correct?
If it was me I might cart the batteries home where I could use an equalizing charger off the grid power.
If the system sat over the winter with a less than 50% charge the batteries may be damaged / sulfated. And that is why the Sp. Gr. won't rise; sulfur that should be in solution in the electrolyte is deposited on the plates where it cannot be used to increase the Sp. Gr.
If the system was not being used to power anything over the winter the CC should have been able to maintain the charge over the winter no matter that the absorb time was at 2.5 hours. That is plenty of time to replace the normal self discharge. That is the puzzle. Our system does fine with the winter absorb at 30 to 45 minutes most days.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 27 May 2014 23:11 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Ok, so maybe a couple of sites copied info from Trojan. It remains that Trojan, a major name in RE batteries states to charge fully before equalizing. Note, from the first link, a quote.... " ...it is time to equalize if the measured specific gravity values are below manufacturer's recommended values after charging". But then it's still the same Trojan website as the other Trojan link so maybe that does not count?
Would you agree that the Northern AZ Wind & Sun Forum is generally recognized as being at the top of the list for having knowledgeable unbiased advice on the subject of renewable energy?
The question asked is: "I have read almost every "how to" out there how to equalize, I cannot find the specific amps, just the volts."
The related part of the response given by one of their longtime "Super Moderators" is: "We don't talk about Amps to Equalize because it doesn't need much. Voltage is the thing for EQ.
The first step to Equalizing is to fully charge the batteries..." The reply goes on to other info.
My electrical engineer friend who has worked and lived with PV for almost 2 decades also says batteries should also be charged first then equalized. He also says that not doing that usually works for a while, years even, but longer safe battery life is the usual result when the advice given for all Trojans is used; charge and then equalize.
Quoting: creeky ...best solved by using a modern solar controller...
That's what we're talking about Outback, Morningstar, top line Xantrax/Schneider ... All designed by engineers. not the cheap Chinese "no name" stuff.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 28 May 2014 19:18 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Creeky, if a battery isn't fully charged when an equalization is started then you are charging the battery, regardless of the voltage target or name of the charge cycle. Once the battery reaches the EQ voltage it will start to equalize. If that point is 3 hours into a 4 hour EQ cycle then the EQ has only been for 1 hour.
~~~~~~~
How's this as an analogy of why we should run through a full charge cycle before performing an equalization cycle.
Fully charging a battery is like filling a bucket to the brim with water.
Equalization is over charging a battery; overfilling the battery with electrons.
One cannot over-fill a bucket with water until the bucket is full of water... regardless of what you want to call it.
Or, one cannot over-fill a battery with electrons (EQ) until the battery is full of electrons... regardless of what you want to call it.
~~~~~~~
If we don't use a hydrometer, after a full charge, we can not tell if the battery really needs equalization, plus we have no reference to see if the equalization has improved the battery.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 29 May 2014 18:58 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Creeky; email from Crown Battery....
Hello Don and greetings from Crown Battery. I am sending you our company brochure about Deep Cycle battery care. By following the guidelines in this brochure you will get better performance and longer life from your batteries. When charging batteries you bulk charge, finish charge then equalize. If you have any questions you can email me or call my cell at nnn-nnn-nnnn. Thank you for your interest in Crown Battery.
Best regards
Bill Rothwell
Crown Battery Manufacturing Company
He forgot the attachment. Can't remember the # of times I've done that. I've asked him to send it along. I'll post the contents if it's not too large. Maybe scan it to a PDF.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 30 May 2014 19:04 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Here is the Crown document, below. Note that nowhere in it do they spell out the fact that they really do mean batteries should be fully charged before equalizing, as noted in the email to me. That is negligent on their part in my opinion. Not spelling that out makes it easy for confusion to arise.
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herringcove
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# Posted: 31 May 2014 08:12
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Thanks Mntdon,
We have a generator but no charger. We tried a genius charger on mains power at a neighbors house, until we realized it was not powerful enough to equalize our 450ah pair of 6V. It was rated high enough for charging them, but not for equalizing. So we returned it. We then decided to try using the panels to equalize, right now they are fizzing, all four 6V in a 12 V setup. Charge controller shows 15.5V but only 7amps. Do you agree I should have 50amps I.e. 5amps per 100ah of battery bank? My bank at 12v is 900ah.(Or I could remove two and need 25amps to do one pair at a time..)
Its only showing 100w and it's early, maybe when the sun hits at a better angle the current will increase.
We hardly used the batteries over winter, just lights and a very few times we used a toaster. Perhaps I should look at a warranty claim?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 31 May 2014 10:10
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You should talk to Rolls. They are the folks recommending the amp rate. The issue I see is that any CC and any inverter / charger I know only let you set the volts and the time for a equalization. No control over the amps.
I don't recall the exact amps I see going into my batteries on a equalization, but it is low, single digits. We have a 24 volt system and the generator powered charger system can produce up to 85 amps. That is over 2.5X that 5amp per 100 amp-hour rate. When the charger is bulk charging at maximum I can tell from the generator sound. When it equalizes the generator pretty much idles. And the batteries equalize fine. EQ also works great off our PV panels. FWIW we have the FM60 and a VFX3524M.
So I am having trouble understanding what Rolls means. I admit I do not understand that.
If the Sp Gr is not coming up I think you have a sulfated battery problem. Talk to Rolls and see what they say.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 31 May 2014 10:25
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I want to add that when I use the CC to equalize I use one of two scenarios
1. The cabin has been vacant to a day or more so that in the AM when we arrive the batteries will be fully charged. I'll see the CC is in float mode. Then I put the CC into EQ mode, after checking the fluid levels.
2. If we've been there overnight, in the summer the charge will usually be full by 1 or 2 PM at the latest. After the system has switched to float if it is a nice sunny afternoon I'll put the CC into EQ.
In both cases I know the batteries are full because of what the CC is doing; being in float.
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creeky
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# Posted: 1 Jun 2014 09:31
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Herringcove if your batteries are at 15.5 and fizzing they are equalizing. The low amperage merely indicates that the job is almost complete. To be blunt: You're overthinking.
As I pointed out earlier, your system will use what power it has available to get the batteries up to equalize voltage. Then taper off as the batteries fill up. So if it only takes 7 amps to keep your batteries at 15.5 then you can assume that your batteries are almost full.
There are only two things you need to think about. One, are your batteries at equalize voltage. So yes they were. And two, how much time does your battery mfc recommend for a full equalization.
Oh. And I checked the manual. As I suspected the morningstar controller does indeed do a full charge cycle and then it runs the equalize instead of going to float. I would think your controller would do the same.
So there is no need for anyone to first bulk charge, then absorb charge and then equalize. The controller, designed by smart people who know this business far better than us amateurs, have already solved these issues. Horray!
My recommendation: Go put your SG thing in a cupboard and forget about it. Relax and let your solar system do what it's supposed to. Your batteries are fine. Everything is working as it should.
Sheesh.
MtnDon. Why do you use a generator to equalize? Your solar panels/controller will do a better job and you won't need to stand there fussing. And I agree about the Crown documentation. I originally had the charge settings set to L16 as my battery provider said. Then one day I asked Crown what the settings were to be. They were much lower (equalize at 15.5 not 16v etc). Apparently the charge information was in the "safety" brochure. Sure enough, there it was, one tiny paragraph hidden inside pages of info. Sheesh also.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 1 Jun 2014 10:34
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Quoting: creeky I checked the manual. As I suspected the morningstar controller does indeed do a full charge cycle and then it runs the equalize instead of going to float. I would think your controller would do the same.
That is great that your CC does that. Most do not complete an actual bulk charge and then do a complete EQ for the programmed time. The Outback do not and last I knew the Xantrex / Schneider do not.
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Quoting: creeky Go put your SG thing in a cupboard and forget about it.
IMO and the opinion of many others including battery manufacturers, that is wrong! Herringcove has stated....Quoting: herringcove Last weekend, we ... equalize again.... we were getting the 15.5v. The batteries bubbled away and at the end of the day the SG reading rose to 1.200.
That sp gr is low, maybe a 60$ state of charge, IF it is temperature corrected. Rule of thumb is for every ten degrees F above 80 F add 3 points to the hydrometer reading and for every ten degrees F below 80 F subtract 3 points from the hydrometer reading.
If the Sp Gr does not come up to a full reading after extended EQ there is an issue someplace.
Hydrometer are useful tools, more useful than a voltmeter as voltmeters can give false SOC readings when the batteries have been recently charged or a large discharge has occurred recently.
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Quoting: creeky MtnDon. Why do you use a generator to equalize? Your solar panels/controller will do a better job and you won't need to stand there fussing.
I use a generator some of the time for an EQ because I have a generator. It is good for it to be used at intervals. Yes, I take readings of each cell and I record them. That gives me an insight to the relative health of each cell, each battery. I have one cell that is lazy or whatever and its Sp. Gr. falls out of line when the batteries are not used a lot, like over winter. I EQ until it is up with the others and stop. No sense EQ'ing (over charging) batteries for unnecessary prolonged times.
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creeky
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2014 08:06
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And I admire your rigor. It's just not in me. My batteries are in service year round and to spend hours out of every month testing etc is just not going to happen.
My concern with Herringcove is that he's a newbie. In all likelihood his low readings are not the true indication of SOC. And are instead, er, user error. We've all been there. Don't ask me about my mysterious two months of "the lights aren't working" on one branch of my electrical in the studio. Hint: always check to make sure you didn't turn off the breaker while working on something else.
The best advice is for him to EQ. Which he has done. Use his batteries as they should be used. And then do an equalize in a week. Do that for a month and then see what shape his batteries are in.
Boy Morningstar controllers are looking better and better aren't they. Good price. Proper equalizing. Built in lightening protection. And my Mppt-60 plugged right into my router and delivers live updates on what it's doing. Being able to watch your batteries over time gives you a real good idea about what power you're using and how your batteries are responding.
You know you're in good shape in the a.m. when 40 watts from the solar panels has already brought your battery voltage to 12.8 (this morning at 6:25). I love summer.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2014 10:06
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Quoting: creeky And I admire your rigor. It's just not in me. My batteries are in service year round and to spend hours out of every month testing etc is just not going to happen.
I don't spend hours every month. It takes maybe a 3/4 of an hour to read and record the Sp Gr. Most of the time there is no need to equalize because the numbers are close enough to not bother. If that is the case I give them a half hour EQ just to stir up the electrolyte. It may take three months before any two readings are more than 0.010 apart. Then I go through the drill of EQ and checking until they are all tightly grouped.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2014 17:51
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FYI, email response to a query...
On 6/2/2014 1:45 PM, Morningstar Corp. Tech Support wrote:
> Hello,
>
> The batteries do not have to be fully charged to enable EQ. However, if the batteries are not fully charged when EQ is initiated, and, if after 3 hours, the batteries are unable to reach EQ voltage, the EQ stage will be cancelled.
>
> Best Regards
> Steve V.
> MS Technical Support
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herringcove
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# Posted: 4 Jun 2014 20:47
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Hi guys,
I think I have uncovered the discrepancy between Rolls request for 5amps/100ah, and Outback's 15.5V setting. The former is referring to desulphation, the latter to preventative maintenance. I can indeed only set the voltage on the charge controller, not the amps. An it occurred to me that, to get more amps flowing, you need a higher voltage! The rolls literature backs that up. So I upped the voltage to 17V and 35amps flowed. The batteries bubbled and the specific gravity rose, we are now at 235.
As for why this happened, it seems my settings were wrong, only absorbing for one hour not 6, and for most of the winter we were not there 5 days a week. We only used a light or two and a shurflo pump for kitchen and toilet only. I wonder if there is something up with the batteries.
Thanks for the input.
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herringcove
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2014 20:06 - Edited by: herringcove
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Just to elaborate, my understanding is; at the time we realized there was a problem, the charge controller was, at any time, going into float, because the battery voltage was reading whatever it needs for that to happen. But I knew they weren't charged because the specific gravity was only 155. And when we put it into equalize, it would at first give maybe 20amps but reduced to less than 10amps, meanng the voltage was getting up to 15.5V, but the specific gravity was still only say 160. After a few hours there was small current, few bubbles, and no rise in SG.
So when we set the EQ voltage to 17V, the current increased to 35amps (still lower than the 45a rolls say we need but I was cautious!) And the SG began to rise more Sig ificantly, 30 points in a day. We are now at 230. This weekend we hope to get up to 265.
I've taken so many readings now it takes 5mins, and I've become consistent in method. I am indeed a newbie, but there really was no excuse for relying on the invertor voltage reading instead of taking SG readings, the reason was that I had the batteries located where they could not be accessed, I.e. not enough height above them!
What I'm getting at is, the battery can lie to your cc and the cc will believe it. So you better read the SG otherwise the cc will float on a sulphated undercharged battery. Better still, preventative EQ!
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 7 Jun 2014 15:57 - Edited by: MtnDon
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Quoting: herringcove ...better read the SG...
Something I have stated so many times that people are likely sick of it. But as you have reinforced there is good reason to take SG readings. I also say the reading should be recorded in a log. Glad to hear you are sorting this out. G/L on the batteries health.
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creeky
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# Posted: 9 Jun 2014 17:25
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Herringcove, I'm sure you've checked and double checked that you're reading your SG properly. I know with mine it gets pretty finicky. I wear my reading glasses. But the data off my controller is accurate.
I also EQ monthly. Recommended for sure.
What do you think may have contributed to the erroneous readings from your controller?
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creeky
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# Posted: 10 Jun 2014 13:59
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Ah. Answered my own question. It was your inverter that gave you inaccurate readings. Not your controller.
How goes the super charge?
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herringcove
Member
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# Posted: 11 Jun 2014 17:39
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Not as good as I had hoped, the last 30 points did not happen, despite a high voltage desulphation process all day. They increased by only 5 points or so, now averaging 240. I'm not confident about getting 265. Rolls did give me some advice; its gonna take 6 months with higher voltages and even then might not get better than 80%.
Yeah the invertor was the one I was reading, but my Cc also gives historical readings for max and min voltage. I wish I had figured out how to read it properly, I just thought 'out voltage' was the setpoint, not realizing that it also reads the battery voltage. I suppose i could check back, not sure if it was reading correctly or if the battery was reporting a falsely high voltage anyway. Bottom line is I wasn't taking SG readings until it was too late.
The SG is finicky and hard to be accurate, but you know when you have or haven't gained 30 points. I allow for 5 point tolerance.
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