|
| Author |
Message |
JH Fish
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Apr 2015 14:43
Reply
Have had good luck so far with the synthetic plastic Oasis Pump. http://www.oasispumps.com/
Tried a cast iron with leathers but did not care for the performance, continued priming, and the slick on the surface of Neatsfoot Oil (found out the mfgr. conditioned the leathers with this stuff only by calling them - nothing in the literature - no thanks, I don't care if oil from the lower legs of a cow can't harm me, I don't want to see it on my water)
We only go up 4 times a year so it is no surprise the leathers did not hold up. We are fortunate to have a 20+' deep dug well that has blue clay down to sand and gravel at the bottom. This pump suits it fine. The water is incredible.
I know there are hunters and others that trespass when we are not there but they have never messed with the well or other structures. But I still wanted a pump I could easily remove for peace of mind and to eliminate freeze potential. We installed the cast iron "Can't Freeze" pump with no foot valve and it only held prime and the water for 2 trips one summer.
I used the spigot closet flange (stainless steel bolted to the cover), a variety of fittings to create a 4" threaded security cap, and the foot valve. Located a long, shallow tote and cut the riser pipe sections to fit in the tote. The pump, various fittings, and all riser sections fit in the tote that slides under the bed. The outlet is threaded and I can thread in the 45 deg. fitting for the bucket or a garden hose.
We just thread the riser sections together and soon have water. The pump base sits on the 3" fitting inside the 4" piece after the cap is removed. I didn't use pipe dope on the threaded sections and just tightened by hand. Turned out that the lack of pipe dope allowed water to slowly drain out to the level down in the well but the foot valve and the draw of the pump was enough to slowly raise the water so that priming wasn't needed and prime was not lost until several hours later. I'll try to post pictures later.
|
|
bldginsp
Member
|
# Posted: 16 Apr 2015 17:41
Reply
Here's a hand well pump that they claim will pump from 350' down:
http://www.survivalunlimited.com/waterpumps.htm
At that depth they say it pumps at 1 gpm.
|
|
JH Fish
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Apr 2015 21:08
Reply
1st set
pumpa.JPG
| 
pumpb.JPG
| 
pumpc.JPG
| 
pumpd.JPG
|
|
|
JH Fish
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Apr 2015 21:10
Reply
2nd set.
pumpe.JPG
| 
pumpf.JPG
| 
pumpg.JPG
| 
pumph.JPG
|
|
|
MtnDon
Member
|
# Posted: 17 Apr 2015 21:55 - Edited by: MtnDon
Reply
When did they start making them blue? Ours is black and 6 years old.
|
|
JH Fish
Member
|
# Posted: 18 Apr 2015 07:30
Reply
They were blue when I started looking 2 years ago.
BTW Don, saw your cabin on another thread - VERY NICE - from where did you get your cabin plans?
|
|
JH Fish
Member
|
# Posted: 18 Apr 2015 07:39
Reply
I considered leaving the riser pipe in place with a retainer plate and just removing the pump then capping the receiver.
I had thoughts of making a long pipe of 1" or 1&1/4" pipe with sections that thread together. A cap would be glued on the bottom with a 1/8" hole drilled in the center. Lower into the riser pipe to fill up then cap the top and quickly remove to take out water (ala finger over straw in glass of water) remaining in riser above water line to avoid freezing of riser pipe. But removing riser was easy so I never tried it. Not sure how much I would lose from the bottom hole after capping.
|
|
MtnDon
Member
|
# Posted: 18 Apr 2015 15:11
Reply
Quoting: JH Fish from where did you get your cabin plans?
Self designed (after research) and self drawn using drawing board, T-square, triangles, architects scale, drawing & tracing paper, pencils, etc... most of which are now 50 years old.
Quoting: JH Fish I had thoughts of making a long pipe of 1" or 1&1/4" pipe with sections that thread together. A cap would be glued on the bottom with a 1/8" hole drilled in the center. Lower into the riser pipe to fill up then cap the top and quickly remove to take out water
I inserted a ball valve in the drop pipe just below the pump body. Added a Schrader air valve below that ball valve. When leaving in cold weather we would close the ball valve and pump in air with a bicycle pump. When we could hear the air bubble out of the lower end of the drop pipe we knew the water had been purged.
Ours only pumps from an underground cistern. I did not use a foot valve. Rather, when finished with pumping water I would close the ball valve. That perfect seal would trap the water in the drop pipe. If the ball valve was left open the water in the pipe would slowly fall to the water level in the cistern.
|
|
|
|
