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gcrank1
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2026 08:44pm
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We just got a bistro table for the cabin deck with a 5/4 x 30" pine edge glued round top. Im not trusting the current topcoat for some exterior use or spill stain protection so wondering what to use?
Btw, Id really like to Never have to refinish this!
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2026 08:50pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Stonecoat, make it natural, make it look like granite, marble...
Look at the stuff, watch videos, super easy.
I have first hand experience with this stuff, fantastic
STONECOAT LINK
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Fanman
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2026 10:17pm
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Is it currently paint or a transparent finish?
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 2 Jun 2026 10:54pm
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If it has a light spray of a clear coat before it was plastic wrapped that would be all, maybe, if Im lucky it would have been a 'sanding sealer'?
We want the pine plank look otherwise a circle of plywood sprayed with the 'stonecoat' would have worked.
Just off top of my 'traditional ways' head Ive been thinking no stain and several coats of a 'water based clear poly' with a light sanding between but am open to suggestions.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 3 Jun 2026 06:28am
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I use Sikens Cetol Marine on my boat teak. Great stuff and lasts forever outside in the water, so would be my go to for anything. I believe there are options for tint level, I always bought the teak one, but I never had old weathered teak on my swim platform.
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Fanman
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# Posted: 3 Jun 2026 08:52am
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If it's going to live outdoors polyurethane isn't a great choice, the UV in sunlight destroys it and it will flake off in a couple of years. A good marine spar varnish would be a better choice.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 3 Jun 2026 06:28pm
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Oh, no poly, that is good to know!
For decades Ive had what started as a big batch of 50/50 boiled linseed oil and odorless mineral spirits, then over time Ive added some little left overs of tung oil, varnish, etc, the stuff that would just go bad if left in the bottle or can. Ive used it as a pre-treat on a lot of stuff in progress because I can still do some extra work and add a coat and it blends right in. I think it has become better over time with those 'hardeners' added. I cant think of any reason why I shouldn't use it on the table as 1st treatments too, it is a real oil finish.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 3 Jun 2026 10:07pm
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This was plain old growth boring ponderosa pine, looked almost white. I did nothing to it but put on stone coat, I added no color, glitter etc. Man did it pop with nice reddish looking color.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 3 Jun 2026 10:08pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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Paint is a more durable outdoor finish than anything you can actually see the wood through.
Spar Urethane (not polyurethane) for exterior use has UV inhibitors and is softer, more flexible than polyurethane. Still not as durable as pigmented paint.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 4 Jun 2026 11:32am - Edited by: gcrank1
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That does look good Toy! Which particular product from Stonecoat did you use?
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 4 Jun 2026 04:01pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: gcrank1 Which particular product from Stonecoat did you use?
I used this stuff, 1/2 gallon
You can paint it before, add marbling, glitter, mica. You can pre paint the surface, or you can add color and glitter to the stone coat or add streaks after its laid down.
Watch youtube videos on the endless ways you can make gorgeous countertops, floors, table, furniture, vanity including sinks, add stickers, I have a JJ sticker dead center. Then I burnt in my brand and sealed it. I may have all the national part stickers next. I can go right over the top again. Need a propane torch and a chop brush.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2026 11:51am
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How about Thompson's Water Seal, once was good ime, how about now?
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DRP
Member
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2026 04:03pm
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It still fails rapidly but gracefully, recoat often but it is easier.
Films last longer but fail ugly and need a complete strip and recoat.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2026 04:41pm
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Im all for easy these days, easy is Way more likely to get done!
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DRP
Member
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2026 07:58pm
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Do you know this gunstock mantra?
"Every day for a week, every week for a month, every month for a year, every year for life."
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2026 08:12pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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For penetrating oils.
And one reason I don't really like penetrating wood oil finishes. Although I must admit a fondness for polymerized oil finishes as they cure more quickly.
(oil is heated to about 300 degrees C over several days in an absence of oxygen. It becomes very thick and is applied as a rub on finish. It cures or dries in 12 hours, maybe less, before recoating. Gives a nice matte, low luster finish.). It's still time consuming.
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Desim
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# Posted: 9 Jun 2026 05:46pm
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Mom bought an old, in the 70's, round oak table. It had layers of blackened varnish on it. This kid asked her why she was messing with that ugly table.
Somehow in her mom ways, that are still secret until this day, she got me interested in stripping, sanding and refinishing that table.
To re-coat it she asked Mr. Waters, a statewide renowned wood worker, what I should use. Per his instructions I installed four coats of Deft Satin Polyurethane.
That dinner table sits in my kitchen today, same finish, no water damage, no heat burns. That is, as near as I can figure, 55+ years of abuse and it looks very good. Even where something slightly dented the wood, it is still sealed. Not saying it is the best, I think you said pine, it was very long in curing and had strong fumes, just a personal testimony.
Good luck!
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