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greenacarina
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2012 20:07
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In the preliminary planning stages of my little 12 x 16 cabin, I am deciding on a foundation. It will be in a fairly wet environment (rain forest) so I am planning to have it off the ground. In deciding between pier blocks (simple) and sinking poles into concrete filled holes (stronger)...I have come to the conclusion that I won't be completely satisfied with pier blocks, so holes and concrete win.
I have only ever dug holes for fence posts, so I am contemplating what tools I will need for this task.
I am basing my cabin on the Cozy Cabin design from Mother Earth News (just making it smaller).
I am thinking that a gas-powered auger will be the only way to go for the diameter and depth I will need for my poles.
Question #1- Will a 1-man auger be enough, or do I need to get a larger 2-man auger?
Question #2- How do I determine what size poles I will need, and how do I determine the correct depth for my holes?
Thanks,
Chris
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optimistic
Member
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2012 21:34
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Q1 - that depends on how thick you need them, which connects to your next question: it depends on how much weight they need to carry. Do you have frost there? if you do then you want to go below the frost line.
Look in this: http://www.bigfootsystems.com/
This adds a lot of strength to it, are not so expensive, and easy to use.
Also, not sure where you are, but I looked into Techno Metal Posts which install for you in a few hours and are very strong. From my calculations they cost just a little over concrete forms but with a lot less work.
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greenacarina
Member
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2012 22:13
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Well, my property is on the Washington coast. Snow is not really an issue. Frost line is at 12"
Nothing about the cabin should be too ridiculous weight-wise...just a basic cabin with a loft.
I guess what I was hoping to find is some info on calculations...how to figure out what size lumber I need for this or that. I am more the type of person to want to know the how and why as opposed to someone just handing me the info and saying "here, just do this"
For anyone reading who may not be familiar with my indended cabin design- http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/2006-06-01/Build-this-Cozy-Cabin.aspx
Same as this, just smaller. 12 ft across the front, 16 ft down the side.
Thanks
Chris
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larry
Member
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2012 22:34
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i used 6x6s every eight feet down the sides at a depth of 36". the width is 12' . i used a hydraulic auger on a cantilever due to the rock i had to deal with. i rented that from home depot.
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MJW
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2012 23:03
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We are using 3 rows of 6 x 6s for our 20 x 32.
The guy that we are using to do a little dirt work has an attachment that will drill the 12" holes we need so we are letting him do it while he is out there.
I thought about renting a 2 man auger but I just know we would run into some big rocks out there. Probably on the last hole or two. 
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Martian
Member
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# Posted: 19 Dec 2012 07:39
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A good pair of jobbers will dig the holes...........with a little effort.
Tom
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greenacarina
Member
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# Posted: 19 Dec 2012 17:23
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Thanks for the pics and advice everyone! Maybe I will go the route of the post hole digger and just plan to back-fill my holes to get the correct diameter once I hit my target depth. I'm not afraid of a little manual labor 
Found a couple carpentry textbooks that may provide the calculations and formulas I am looking for.
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EvoQ
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# Posted: 19 Dec 2012 22:11
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I hear ya Martian, I installed my backyard wooden fence at my home a few years back. rather than rent an auger I choose to go the old fashioned route and used post hole digger like you did. I dug 73 holes in all 12 inches wide and 3 feet deep filled each with concrete. Was that some hard A$$ work but I did it...lol...
ON a side note I had always been told that a single man auger is a waste of time and money.
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bobbotron
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2012 11:39
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Quoting: EvoQ ON a side note I had always been told that a single man auger is a waste of time and money.
I've done holes both ways, it seriously depends on the soil type. Did a single man auger for a shed, was great until you hit a rock. Don't hold on too tight or it will rip your shoulder off. In sandy/loamy soil they work great. Lotta rocks, they're awful.
Our cottage is on crazy sandy soil. After about 3.5 or 4 feet it was hard to get it out with a clam shell, we used a shop vac which seems like cheating, but is disturbingly effective.
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bobbotron
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2012 11:46
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Also, except to be doing this when you hit a rock 3.5' down!
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Martian
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2012 11:48
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Quoting: bobbotron Our cottage is on crazy sandy soil. After about 3.5 or 4 feet it was hard to get it out with a clam shell, we used a shop vac which seems like cheating, but is disturbingly effective.
If I could get a hole in the ground with a shop vac, I promise you, I'd do it! We would put a little water in the hole when I was a kid, but then, there was no electricity near the holes.........and shop vacs were a few years away.
Tom
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bobbotron
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2012 12:15
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Quoting: Martian If I could get a hole in the ground with a shop vac, I promise you, I'd do it! We would put a little water in the hole when I was a kid, but then, there was no electricity near the holes.........and shop vacs were a few years away. Tom
It was a funny sight, little generator hooked up to a shop vac out in the woods. You'd have to unload it every 5 minutes or so, which is a fair bit of soil! When it hit loose stuff, it actually pulls the end of the hose downwards into the earth from the suction.
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oldgringo
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2012 19:48
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There are rocks, and then, there are rocks.
Years ago, I was building a deck onto my house. At the same time, a crew was building a pole barn, and had one of those contractors that sets utility poles on site. I arranged for them to bore the holes for my deck, which I had laid out ever-so-carefully.
Let me tell you, when that big sucker hit rock, it veered off and took the path of least resistance. Creative framing corrects a multitude of sins.
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EvoQ
Member
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2012 17:42
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BoBoTron---that was the Point. Single Man Augers are ok until you hit that first ROCK> and Bamm that handle can get jerked out of your hand so hard as to break an arm.
On another note long time back when I built my first small building 1000sq/ft I got to the point where I was doing the electrical and was installing the grounding rod.
I remembered what an old timer/friend had told me on what was the best way to drive that Grounding/Copper rod into the ground.
He told me to trickle some water right next to the rod and with some steady pressure the water would help lubricate and soften the soil, even if it is rocky. Well it worked like a charm. Another Hint from the Old Timers that knew better....
Happy Holidays All !
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