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BryanL
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# Posted: 11 Oct 2014 11:36
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Brand spanking new member here and spent almost the whole night going through the forums. I do have a question for site prep. I am looking at having one of those portable lofted barn cabins delivered in MN in the spring. I am worried about rodent control and how best to set it up. For those familiar with Pine and Kanabec county in Minnesota I am told it is very rocky and hard to dig holes for posts. I have a flat area to put cabin on, (10x20 or 12x20). The previous owners have a big flat sand/ stone area. It is a little higher and there isn't any lakes or streams nearby. I am wondering if I should just set it right on the ground on top of the skids they build it on or if I should have come blocks to elevate it. I absolutely hate the idea of rodents gaining entry so want that to be a consideration in height. Also, if I set right on ground how would I insulate the floor, or don't I. Thanks for any and all advice. I really love this site.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 11 Oct 2014 15:44
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I don't know what the skids look like on your building, but if they are not pressure treated you definitely want them up off the ground with concrete block, piers, footing or something. If they are pressure treated I'd still do that, but some people put pressure treated skids on dirt or gravel and leave it at that. That is not a permanent solution, but maybe you don't want a permanent solution.
As far as critters go, higher is no better. Mice can shimmy up anything except bare sheet metal. Sealing it up and being persistent with traps is best I can think of. You must have seen the thread on mouse traps recently.
Send pics! Good luck.
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Bevis
Member
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# Posted: 11 Oct 2014 15:46
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Could build a gravel pad to sit it on.
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DwellerofCabin
Member
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# Posted: 11 Oct 2014 15:56
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I have one of those 12x20 sheds I am living in. I am up on cement blocks and have metal siding around the cabin with small vent holes for circulation so it drys out under the house. Same stuff they use on mobile homes. Mold and moss will grow like crazy without ventilation. I also have cement blocks in front of the attached metal siding. Mice are mice and if they want in they will. I use glue traps to catch them. Rule of thumb at my place, if you stay out of my living space you live, if not, you're a gonner! Down here in Oklahoma It's damp and humid, plus I live near the woods, so I opted for the blocks even though my skids are pressure treated. They will last longer in any case. Good luck on the mice!!!
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BryanL
Member
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# Posted: 11 Oct 2014 16:17
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Everything listed below is pressure treated
Pressure Treated 4x6 Support Beams
Pressure Treated 2x6 Floor Joist
Pressure Treated 5/8" Siding & Floors
So I think that part is covered. I'm leaning toward getting up on blocks an additional 8" or so. Should give me a foot underneath for ventilation and to get under to insulate if possible. Will figure out something to skirt with to help mouse problems. Good tips, keep them coming.
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bldginsp
Member
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# Posted: 11 Oct 2014 17:54
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I've heard people complain that the mice got into the underfloor insulation under buildings on piers. They didn't get into the house, but if they live in the insulation long enough they rip it to shreds and pee in it til it stinks. Yuck. So I remember one or two people talking about putting plywood or screening on the bottom of the joists just to keep them out. A lot of work. Easier way to insulate is to put rigid foam on top of the floor, but that screws up all your doors and moldings.
Or, put rigid foam insulation up against the underside of the floor between the joists. A lot of work but the mice will be less likely to burrow in it than into fiberglass, especially if you spray foam the gaps. Mice can crawl into a 1/4" gap, because their bones are flexible.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 12 Oct 2014 11:24
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The skid ideas IMHO is a good idea if you want to save on a foundation. But like Bevis said (Bevis, you working on your ham upgrade still??) I'd set a bed of gravel under it. Make it somewhat thick, maybe the 5/8 minus and then a vapor barrier on the underside of the unit.
I'd build a sub floor out of treated plywood, then lay in wire mesh down on that subfloor, then lay studs across that, then insulate and put the flooring on top of that. Then build walls on top. This would give you insulation in the floor, rodent proof to boot. Extra cost. But would solve all your problems.
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BryanL
Member
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# Posted: 12 Oct 2014 21:40
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Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech I'd build a sub floor out of treated plywood, then lay in wire mesh down on that subfloor, then lay studs across that, then insulate and put the flooring on top of that. Then build walls on top. This would give you insulation in the floor, rodent proof to boot. Extra cost. But would solve all your problems.
I like this idea. Seems like a solid plan. So your saying the wire mesh would be sandwiched inside the two layers of plywood with the insulation? In other woods, from bottom up it would be; skids,treated plywood, wire mesh, floor joist w insulation in between, flooring. Then build up from there?
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Julie2Oregon
Member
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# Posted: 13 Oct 2014 17:53
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^^^^ Yes, that sounds a bit like how my cabin will be built. There's a steel mesh rodent barrier.
http://www.oregontimberwerks.com/cabins.htm
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 13 Oct 2014 18:59 - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Easiest way to do it would be to build your floor upside down, layout the floor joist first, plum level and square, then sheet on top with the treated plywood (this will become the bottom), staple on the wire mesh over the entire area and leave enough overhang on each side (12" or better), then flip it over on to your skids, plywood and mesh are now facing down, then insulate between the joist and install interior sub-floor sheeting. Add stud walls, then run the overhanging extra mesh up over the rim joist to just under the siding (attach to bottom wall plate) an inch or so. No way will a varmint get in.
If your floor is already in place, lay down mesh on floor, then lay down joist and insulate and sheet over again.
This is the stuff I was speaking off. Not sure if it comes in larger rolls. I speak of the 1/4" stuff. There is also 1/8" too. Its galvanized and can be stapled in place.
http://www.amazon.com/Inch-Mesh-Tall-Hardware-Cloth/dp/B000BWY7UQ
Here is Oregon Timber Werks putting down the mesh on their cabin while assembling it.
Varmint Mesh install in flooring
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 13 Oct 2014 19:35
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Quoting: Julie2Oregon http://www.oregontimberwerks.com/cabins.htm
Nice website Julie. 
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Julie2Oregon
Member
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# Posted: 15 Oct 2014 21:47
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I'm excited about having them build my cabin, toyota_mdt_tech! It's hard for me to start planning and budgeting and to begin the process since I'm 1,700 miles away so it helps having people there. This seems to be a happy medium between pre-fab and stick built.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2014 10:31
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Julie, they are local to the area, which is a huge plus. I assume they wil even set it up, their busienss, so they wil do it right. Then when you get there, you have a ready to go dried in shell. Then you can customize it the way you like. If they are closing in the walls, make sure anything inside is already in place. When you moving up this way Julie?
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Julie2Oregon
Member
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2014 19:39
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Hopefully, next summer. We're working on the design now since they're doing a custom cabin for me. It's a small business and they get busy in the spring-summer so I want to be there and ready to go when they can do the project. Permits, inspections, and such need done, too. I will rent an apartment for the time being until the cabin is done and I can move in. 
Yes, they will do the setup, finishing, and foundation. The solar contractor will handle electrical. We're looking for a plumbing contractor but it will be quite simple. Solar, waterless toilet system, two sinks and a shower feeding into a greywater filtering system. I'm keeping all of the plumbing on one wall of the cabin, fed by pillow water tanks in the crawl space under the cabin.
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toyota_mdt_tech
Member
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# Posted: 17 Oct 2014 21:36
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Use an interior wall if you can, keeps pipes from freezing. Are you using a full footing/stemwall foundation? That will keep varmints out for sure.
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Julie2Oregon
Member
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# Posted: 18 Oct 2014 01:39
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I'm not sure what that is, toyota_mdt_tech. I've been looking at approved foundations that provide a crawl space in the earthquake codes with 4 ft. deep concrete footings and hooks that attach to posts/the building. Is that kind of like that? We haven't decided on the foundation yet.
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Gearhead
Member
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# Posted: 26 Oct 2014 22:34
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Bryan
If you are near Pine/Kanabec boarder, we have property on the other side of Kanabec county.
Who are getting your barn from?
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BryanL
Member
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# Posted: 26 Oct 2014 22:43
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Still in the process of deciding. I am deciding between Premier Builders, Grandview Buildings and an Amish guy building on his own out of Mora. I like the lone guy but he doesn't quite have what I want and am in the process of seeing how flexible he is. Premier and Grandview have exactly what I want but are a little more spendy. If they have a winter clearance or sell it might put them in the ballpark. I am located in Kanabec county about 12 miles NE of Mora.
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OwenChristensen
Member
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# Posted: 27 Oct 2014 00:37
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owenchristensen-a1cabinbuider.com
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