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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Ideas needed for inner walls.
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Simpleman
Member
# Posted: 16 Apr 2015 21:40
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I was planning on using tar paper and misc. 1x6, 1x8, & 1x10 pine boards running horizontal for inner walls. Would like to hear of any recommendations or suggestions of what you have in your cabin. Floor going to done in 1x8 pine t&g. Thanks!
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image.jpg


Ontario lakeside
Member
# Posted: 16 Apr 2015 23:33
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Simpleman
we used 1X6 rough cut pine, three full boards and a 1" board pattern horizontally . we are very happy with the look and it was easy.

Here a video if you want to see the look
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_RTL8lbQjc

I mention in the video that we are going to pant or stain the walls, but after living with them I think we are going to leave them as it is.

Jim in NB
Member
# Posted: 17 Apr 2015 06:09
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I used drywall and painted it a light tan. I have a t&g pine ceiling and will be putting in end grain flooring. The reason I went with drywall (could have used a light coloured panelling) was to ensure that the wood would not over power the place. Gives it a more relaxed feeling in my opinion.

Malamute
Member
# Posted: 17 Apr 2015 11:07 - Edited by: Malamute
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How dry are your logs? It looks like the interior walls are framed with no settling room under the tie log going across the room. Usually some settling room is left so the settling of the walls from the logs drying doesnt crush the floors and make doors hang up.

I finished a place that had factory milled logs, supposedly dry, that was framed without settling room. It ended up causing serious problems.

Its usual to attach the interior frame walls to the log walls in ways that allow settling also.

It looks like the window jambs/frames dont have settling room also. The top of the frame touches the log above it. Are the logs on the sides of the frames just nailed to the frames?

You may luck out, but I've seen and heard of many serious issues from not leaving setting room. Very small cabins with very dry logs may get by.

Simpleman
Member
# Posted: 17 Apr 2015 12:20
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Hey Malamute,

I started cutting and peeling my logs in Dec of 2011 and finished in March of 2012. I didn't start construction of cabin wall until around January of 2013. To date the logs have been drying a little over 4 years. From my research most log shrinkage will occur the first 1.5 years but can shrink up to 5 years. Luckily I have not seen any evidence of shrinking. Work on the loft project referring to 2nd story is approx 7 months old so logs were approx 3 years cut when I started that project. Also the diameter of the logs avg 9" to 10". Shrinkage has definately been a concern of mine but have had no problems thus far. Windows have been in about a 1 year and I have no problem opening or closing. My hope is most or all shrinking has taken place.

Yes, the window frames are screwd into logs.

Simpleman
Member
# Posted: 17 Apr 2015 13:19
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Hey Ontario Lakeside,

Your cabin and walls looks great. Enjoyed your video. Thanks!

Simpleman
Member
# Posted: 17 Apr 2015 13:22
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Hey Jim,

I am also battling with the thought that wood floor, wood walls and wood ceiling may be overkill. But I do love the rustic wood look. Thanks!

Malamute
Member
# Posted: 17 Apr 2015 13:40
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I like wood and have no issue with an all wood house. To me, drywall and other modern materials detract from log cabins. Guess others have different opinions, as many do things differently.

If it hasnt happened yet, you may be OK. Your place isnt really big either, or the walls real tall.

I've had some noticable shrinkage from dead standing logs (I believe several years dead before being cut), and after being peeled and built for a couple years. It wasnt a lot, but I compensated for it. It may not have caused troubles, but was noticable. The chinking around the door and some windows was stretched and tore. The frames were set to 2x4 splines inlet into the logs. I also tightend up the all-thread some going through the walls.

thetick
Member
# Posted: 17 Apr 2015 15:31 - Edited by: thetick
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We just finished the bedroom in rough cut 1x6 southern pine. We found a local guy that has a nice mill setup in his backyard. Cost came to .38 sq ft. Cheaper than drywall. We love it and can't wait to see the rest of the house finished.

Edit: We did use 15# tar paper on the walls first.

rockies
Member
# Posted: 17 Apr 2015 17:18
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I saw a nice detail that Frank Lloyd Wright used on his Usonian houses where the boards were held in place with a spline running horizontally. The main boards ran horizontally and both long edges had tongues that sat against the studs. The spline had a routered groove on the back on both edges. You nailed the spline into the stud and the boards "floated". It looks similar to log walls, except with flat boards.
Wall elev
Wall elev


rayyy
Member
# Posted: 19 Apr 2015 18:16
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I like the look of knotty pine so every thing is either 1x6 tongue and groove or just random width pine board.It's not cheap but it is quick and easy.Cut it to length,nail it on and that's it's finished.No prep work, sanding,priming,painting.Finished product.

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