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CabinBuilder
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# Posted: 4 Aug 2008 15:08 - Edited by: CabinBuilder
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I finally got around setting up a wood stove in my small cabin - it is ready for our visits during colder months.
My problem was that I have a very limited space inside the cabin, and with basic minimum clearing requriements of 18" between the wood stove and combustible surfaces I would have to isntall wood stove pretty much in the middle of the cabin... far from the wall and everything else.
So, after lots of research and some calculations I was able to reduce wood stove clearances by doing the following:
1). Layer of brick around the wood stove, to absorb and retain heat
2). Corrugated steel sheet around the layer of brick
3). Approximately 8" of space clearance
4). A dual layer heat shield made of corrugated steel - with 1" spacing between sheets and the wall, 1" off the floor for air circulation
5). Metal sheet and ceramic tile for the floor protection.
Perhaps my small cabin wood stove setup is not to the last letter of the building code, but I know it is safe – during my test burn the cabin wall surface behind the dual layer of heat shield was not even warm to the touch.
For the chimney, I used a larger diameter stove pipe as a heat shield and cut a hole in the ceiling with additional clearance, then sealed connections with high-temperature wood stove cement.
On the roof, I installed a rain cap with a metal spark arrestor (also prevents animals from getting in through the chimney).
I have also installed a carbon monoxide detector inside the cabin.
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Pyro
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# Posted: 4 Aug 2008 23:02 - Edited by: Pyro
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I love the idea of the two layers of sheet metal.
I've been thinking of doing something similar with metal that is more decorative. (Metal Ceiling material) It would add "form to function." Your solution of copper spacers is great! But I wonder if there will galvanic reaction between the steel & the copper over the years? (Would steel electrical conduit be better??? I have no idea.)
Anyway, thanks for sharing! Your problem is something we all face & your solution is very good. (In my opinion)
Joe
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CabinBuilder
Admin
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# Posted: 4 Aug 2008 23:14
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The spacers could be made from any metal - I used peaces of copper pipe because I had some available.
I was also thinking of how to make steel sheeting more esthetically pleasing, to match cabin interior... Perhaps painting, but the only high-temp paint I could find is black...
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soundandfurycabin
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# Posted: 4 Aug 2008 23:46
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I don't think there will be a galvanic reaction unless moisture is also present, and the stove will help keep that corner dry. Using the decorative ceiling panels is a great idea. They are a bit pricey so it might be worthwhile matching the standoffs and fasteners just to be safe. Or use the tin-coated panels, which are corrosion resistant.
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swanugly
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# Posted: 18 Aug 2008 13:09
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very good ideas .
we are going to face the same problems as far a space .
what brand of stove did you use , and how big is it ?
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Vince P
Member
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2008 10:51
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Looks good. Should retain some heat.
Here's a chart that might help those questioning safety of their set up.
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Vince P
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2008 10:55 - Edited by: Vince P
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Quoting: swanugly we are going to face the same problems as far a space . what brand of stove did you use , and how big is it ?
When I was faced with this dilemma, I had planned to use metal shielding to reduce the wall clearance from 36" to 12" as shown in the chart I posted above
In the end, aesthetics won out, and I returned my stove and purchased a shielded one for a little more $. This stove can be had for about $450 US when found on sale and only requires 12" clearance. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93236
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CabinBuilder
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2008 13:50 - Edited by: CabinBuilder
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Quoting: swanugly what brand of stove did you use , and how big is it ?
I used this wood stove. It's smallest I could find (my cabin is only ~100 sq.ft).
Will give it a good try later this fall, will see how it performs, will let you know...
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swanugly
Member
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# Posted: 19 Aug 2008 21:03
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Quoting: CabinBuilder I used this wood stove. It's smallest I could find (my cabin is only ~100 sq.ft). Will give it a good try later this fall, will see how it performs, will let you know...
how hard was it to find the 4" stove pipe or did the same place sell it ? i did,t see the pipe on the site .
that will be plenty of heat for a little cabin . ours is only 120 sq/ft .
the price is rite .
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CabinBuilder
Admin
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# Posted: 20 Aug 2008 08:07
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Quoting: swanugly how hard was it to find the 4" stove pipe or did the same place sell it ?
I got the "kit" from the same supplier - it included > 4 ft of 4" pipe, dampener and rain cup.
I couldn't find the 4" wood stove piple locally, so I ordered extra pipe together with the stove.
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Vince P
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# Posted: 20 Aug 2008 08:30
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If your looking for a low priced woodstove, check out the link below. This is cast iron, not sheet metal and uses a 6 inch flue.
I bought this one on sale from Lowes for only $79, but ended up returning it for the shielded one I mentioned above.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_796_796
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CabinBuilder
Admin
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# Posted: 20 Aug 2008 13:44
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I wish I've seen whis woodstove before...
O well...
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swanugly
Member
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# Posted: 20 Aug 2008 20:53
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wow . that is a good deal . i think it would be a bit big for our cabin tho
i found some tiny marine stoves . they are pricy but are probably good quality . http://www.marinestove.com/sardineinfo.htm
there is no 4 " stove pipe around here either it would have to be ordered at the same time .
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island guy
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# Posted: 24 Oct 2008 15:29
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For a thimble, or a through the wall insulated double-wall chimney section, I was told by a woodstove dealer to simply use a smaller section of stovepipe insulated with "ceramic strand" insulation, then set it inside a larger stovepipe. He said it would'nt meet code, but was essentially the same thing as the commercial thimbles he quoted me $175 for. I bought enough ceramic strand insulation from a refractory company to do two thimbles for $15. I have yet to install my woodstove, so I don't yet know how well this will work.
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swanugly
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# Posted: 24 Oct 2008 22:46
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i got my new stove this week. i bought it direct from the manufacture, http://endurancemanufacturing.com/pricing.htm , they were real good to deal with . i bought the bigger of the 2 and make some mods . i added a little tray to the front to catch sparks , i made the damper airtight . and i am gonna line it with fire brick . i think its going to work good will let you know .
i have to do the though the wall thing aswell . i think i will just leave an air gap , two flanges with a pipe that the stove pipe just fits into and no insulation .
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island guy
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# Posted: 27 Oct 2008 13:48
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That essentially what I just described, except with the addition of the ceramic strand insulation. It is, as mentioned, very inexpensive, although may not be very easy to access. If I understand correctly, most of the code requirements regarding chimney installation is designed to prevent or delay combustion in the event of a chimney fire, not, as I first thought, to prevent combustion during normal use. If you do give insulation any further consideration, I understand a "welding blanket" is basically thye same thing, and may be easily obtained from a welding supply shop. Good luck on your installation.
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