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Redah
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# Posted: 13 Apr 2025 08:29am - Edited by: Redah
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Quoting: MtnDon I doubt there would be any meaningful ventilation of the ceiling space. The air would tend to just sit there in the horizontal space. **** I would think something similar could be done on the exterior of the container.
I understand what you're saying about the air movement in the ceiling! A fan would be required to do it. That puts an end to the idea.
****
It looks like this is the idea that needs to be considered.
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Redah
Member
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# Posted: 24 Apr 2025 01:27pm - Edited by: Redah
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I've been searching and thinking about which way to go, and I'm going back to my original plan of using rigid foam boards on the inside. I am satisfied that by adding more vents (the same type as those already installed), I will have sufficient natural ventilation circulation along the walls.
So I now need to figure something out for the issue that MtnDon brought up regarding the ceiling space.
Although I prefer not to have powered ventilation, I will just need to come up with a system that will be simple and easily serviced.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 24 Apr 2025 05:58pm - Edited by: gcrank1
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Solar powered fan(s)?
Iirc Ive seem online totally self contained units with an auto lid and fan that run during sun-hours/heat of day. Idk if they have a small integral battery, would think they must to be sure the lid closes.
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Redah
Member
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# Posted: 25 Apr 2025 09:02am - Edited by: Redah
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gcrank1,
The solar option could include some batteries.
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Darryle
Member
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2025 10:21am
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You are not to use the Texas Hunting forum for advertising. Notified THF moderator.
Sincerely,
SCF moderator
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Redah
Member
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2025 11:12am - Edited by: Redah
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Quoting: Darryle wall container specific vents
That's similar to what I was thinking for the walls, but vent the "ceiling/attic" cavity through the upper part of the back and front walls instead. Something that can be utilized with a blower during our 17-day winter season, and solely by convection during the rest of the year.
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Darryle
Member
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2025 12:20pm
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It wasn't advertising, it was hosted in my photo album.
It was specifically what I purchased for my container.
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Redah
Member
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2025 12:30pm
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Quoting: Darryle It was specifically what I purchased for my container.<< . 1 . 2 .
Are you referring to the roof vent?
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2025 01:58pm
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Quoting: Darryle It wasn't advertising, it was hosted in my photo album.
Why didn't you provide a name and link to the company so we know where to buy them?? If it looks like spam, it gets removed.
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Redah
Member
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2025 10:10pm - Edited by: Redah
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There seems to be something we are not a part of.
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Redah
Member
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# Posted: 13 May 2025 11:25pm
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I'm still at it!
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 14 May 2025 02:43pm
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If you insulate the outside of the container it will become part of the moderated temp heat/cold sink; that would be a good thing I think.
But...at one time when containers were 'cheap' it might have made sense, now with the higher cost and delivery I'd have to do the math against a similar size stick built done the Right Way, Right Off.
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Redah
Member
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# Posted: 14 May 2025 03:08pm - Edited by: Redah
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gcrank1,
I'm convinced that the right planning for a simple rectangular or square small house without trying to invent a different shape wheel would be much cheaper than any other method of construction.
A one trip 'new' HQ 40' container that needs no painting or fixing can bought for about $5,500 or less. (South Texas prices}
___
For personal reasons, I prefer to do No-siding and No-spray.
The only issue that I need to work on is how to deal with the 'Snap' change of temperature that we have some winter evenings here in Texas. The day would be sunny and the outer wall is nice and hot, then the sun goes down and outside temperature drops. This might happen less than 10 nights a year.
The inside temperature and humidity of the house should be no issue on it's effect on the container walls or roof.
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Redah
Member
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# Posted: 15 May 2025 10:00am
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Very interesting read!
"One of suggested solutions proposed by people knowledgeable in the matter is to leave an air gap between the container’s metal walls and the layer of thermal insulation. In this case, we accept the fact that the vapor this or other way will migrate towards container’s walls and when outdoor temperatures and the level of indoor vapor create conditions for condensation, it will take place.
The ventilated air gap in the condensation zone allows for evacuation of moisture and vapor to outdoors, significantly limiting the potentially disastrous impact of trapped in the wall water on the structure and health.
However, if the air gap is properly ventilated, it will offer a sort of “open-doors” for continuous evacuation of the moisture outdoors. For sure, the adequate ventilation is the key parameter of this protection system. It must be designed for that purpose and most likely “assisted”. In other words, the natural (passive) ventilation based on convection may not be efficient enough. Depending on location (climate zones) you may need either roof-mounted wind-propelled turbines helping to move air, moisture and vapor across mentioned air-gaps or even strategically located, small electrical ventilators.
It seems that the air gap of about 1-to-1.5” (2.5-to-3.5cm) thick may be enough to guarantee efficient airflow. While this extra 1+ inch will have an impact on the overall thickness of the wall (and free indoor living space), it may be still a low-cost solution to the condensation problem."
https://web.archive.org/web/20210921200248/https://icontainerhome.com/preventing-stop ping-condensation-in-shipping-container-home/
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