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zorro
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2025 04:38pm
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So i am doing an upgrade to my cabin in terms of solar/inverter/batteries etc
Currently, my deep well pump runs off my generator which is a PIA
Ideally I would like to run this off a new inverter
Currently looking at the EG4 6000XP, split phase 120/240V inverter (seems to get pretty good reviews across the board)
My pump is;
Goulds 10HS05422C 4" Submersible Water Well Pump, 10 GPM, 1/2 HP, 230 V, 2 Wire
I am not going to be at the cabin now for several months, so cant confirm the Surge rating of the pump
Pump specs are shown
Can you confirm from this info if the 6000XP would be able to cope or do i need the Surge rating?
Thanks
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2025 06:59pm
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Quoting: zorro do i need the Surge rating?
I have a question for you. Do you have an official surge rating from the mfg or are you going to take reading with a meter of some kind? If you are metering, my understanding is that most meters cannot react fast enough with accuracy to measure a surge reading for something like a well pump. AFAIK, there are surge meters that have a special inrush, or surge setting, but they are not run-of-the-mill meters.
It would seem that inverter should have enough capacity to start and run a 240 VAC pump, but that is an assumption from specs.
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zorro
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2025 07:41pm - Edited by: zorro
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I cant seem to find a surge rating anywhere?
From what I can understand, this unit here will provide that info, but I wont be able to get to the cabin now for 4+ months unfortunately
I have seen a few Youtube videos of guys using it to identify this exact issue
https://shorturl.at/4OtOc
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2025 08:15pm
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Sounds like you have some time to communicate with the mfr about this
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zorro
Member
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2025 09:01pm
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Yeah I sent them a message today and waiting on a reply ………….you know how that can be!!
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2025 10:54pm - Edited by: travellerw
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According to Pumpproducts the LRA on that motor is 16A.
LRA is the maximum amount of current the pump will draw when the rotor is "stalled" (from a dead stop). So 16A at 230V is 3680W.
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zorro
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# Posted: 3 Nov 2025 11:09pm
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Thanks for the info
So 3680w may be an issue
The inverter is 6000w but that is split across 2 x MPPT’s
However, it does have a max surge of 11000w for 5 seconds………..which may be enough?
So maybe I need to speak to the inverter company to see what they say as I am not too clear on that point
Thanks again - appreciated
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Brettny
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2025 07:33am
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Head pressure really matters too. You may need the static water level spec of your well when calling them.
Are there other inverters you looked at? I though most of the better ones had a surge 2x the rating for at least 30sec?
When I do my battery/inverter upgrade il be going from a 12v/1200w inverter to a 48v/3kw. I'm going to be useing a victron multiplus 2. You can parallel two to make 240v. I dont currently have a well so want to leave room in my system for one.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2025 09:30am - Edited by: Steve_S
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Typically a Non Soft-start will Surge 3X the Amp rating at initial start for a few seconds with the water load in the pipe. The Inverter in that AIO is "High Frequency" so it can handle 2x surges up to 12,000W so it should not have a problem with it. Now for fun, stand next to the inverter when the pump fires up and listen to it... Notice the HUM change as it bags down a bit for a few seconds, the fans will likely kick on almost instantly too.
Inversion Methods Explained: High Frequency vs Low Frequency
Know your Inverter: High vs Low Frequency Inversion Methods
IRON CORE TRANSFORMERS AND FIELD EFFECT TRANSISTORS
There are two distinct types of industrial grade power inverters distinguished by the size of their transformers, and the switching speed of their transistors. The ability of an inverter to absorb the electrical surges inherent in certain loads like motors, pumps, and torque-related tools is directly proportional to the physical amount of iron present in the transformer. Size and tolerances of the transistors used in the inversion process, and the speed at which they operate determines the classification of high or low frequency.
INVERSION METHODS EXPLAINED
High Frequency Inverters (HF)
(extracted from Technical Docs related to Inversion systems)
The large majority of inverters available in the retail market are high frequency. They are typically less expensive, have smaller footprints, and have a lower tolerance for industrial loads. HF inverters have over twice the number of components and use multiple, smaller transformers. Their application is appropriate for a wide variety of uses like tool battery chargers, small appliances, A/V and computers, but have a decreased capacity for long term exposure to high surge loads like pumps, motors, and some high-torque tools.
Low Frequency Inverters (LF)
Our UL-listed, low frequency inverters and inverter/chargers are the pinnacle of electrical durability. The massive iron core transformer is aptly capable of absorbing surge loads because of the “Flywheel Effect” inherent in the physical amount of a transformer’s iron. LF inverters have larger and more robust Field Effect Transistors (FET’s) that can operate cooler, in part due to the slower frequency of switching required to produce AC power. These inverters are feature rich to include the optional ability to hardwire additional external GFCI outlets, input of multiple DC voltages, provide regulated dual output voltages (120/240VAC), and integrate chemistry appropriate battery chargers and transfer relays for shore power.
HIGH FREQUENCY
Pros:
Smaller footprint
Less expensive
Cons:
Doesn’t operate well with high-surge loads like pumps and high-torque tools
LOW FREQUENCY
Pros:
Runs well with high-surge loads
Operates cooler
Cons:
Heavier
More expensive
----------------
Personal Observations:
HF are great for most loads including typical items like fridge/Freezer/AC/HeatPumps. When you get into heavies like a big Deep Well Pump, Air Compressors, MIG Welders (the worst) they don't handle that well and can stress the FET's and fail. It's a progressive cumulative damage and may take a little while before it fails. IF you observe a noticeable Light Bulb Flicker/Fade when entering a Deep Surge, it's an indicator of potential harm.
LF as explained above, benefits from the Flywheel effect and won't cause Flicker/Fade and take it all quite well BUT you will certainly get a respectable Hum when taking the surge.
Experiences:
I run 3HP Compressor, a MIG and other "Heavy & Nasties" on occasion (My deep well pump is a Soft-Start Grundfos SQ5 so no surge). The MIG causes major spikes when the trigger is pulled and I can hear the inverter bog and fans instantly go on, there's almost a "thump" that you can hear... Tad freaky until you know what's going on... pergectly OK. The Compressor - oivey because it is already under pressure in the tank & that initial surge is pretty heavy and the Amps drawn increase as the tank pressure increases.
* I have a fast acting SmartShunt which instantly tracks Amps Drawn and logs it, it sure is something to see and nmakes one underastand how nasty things can get... I did manage to trip my system to Dafety Mode when I had the Compressor go off while using the MIG and other "normal" stuff like fridge kicked on... Lesson learned, flip compressor switch off if doing such...
NOTE
It is best to install SoftStart modules for things like AC/Heat Pumps and Well Pumps when possible. They are not that costly and are usually not too hard to install.
GOOD NEWS:
The EG4's were a tad tricky when they first came out but they have come a long way and are quite a good "mature" product now. Many revisions & updates to the hardware & software, they have them pretty well nailed down now. Their internal Shunt is pretty good and I do believe that you can monitor it "live" with the Phone App which I suggest you do to see what exactly being pulled and note it down somewhere. CAVEAT, it is FET based and yes, it can deliver 12000W *BUT* it's best to not push it to that point, try to keep it below 10,000W.
For Quick Math:
Watt's = Volts X Amps
Hope it helps, Good Luck & Have Fun.
Steve
PS: The dual MPPT Solar Controllers have nothing to do with surge handling etc. They only take the Solar Input from your array(s) to charge the Battery system and have no effect on the Inverter side. They will supply Amperage as available to the inverter and the inverter will pull the balance demanded from the Battery system. IF say your Batts are full and the SCC's are in FLOAT MODE, they will go into Bulk Mode to produce the Max Amps they can when a demand hits and then return to charge/float mode afterwards. You will be able to see that through the APP as it goes through the cycles. Takes a bit of watching time to understand how it plays.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2025 09:30am
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Quoting: Brettny Head pressure really matters too
That’s what I was thinking. I’d love to do same and get rid of dedicated well shack genny but seems like a lot of battery juice to fill the tank.
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Steve_S
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2025 09:42am - Edited by: Steve_S
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Just a side note in general. I use a Grundfos SQ5 Deep Well Pump 300' down, filling to a 50 Gal pressure tank (to 55 PSI) and then another 75' to house. It starts at (30PSI) 750W and stages up till it reaches max pressure at which point it is pulling 2200W. This is a Soft-Start 120VAC model.
BTW: One never feels the pressure change in the house (IE Shower) as it is all quite smooth, and that's with 2 heavy Filters in-line from pressure tank to house. The final filter being a 0.5 micro microfilter which drops the PSI a little.
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zorro
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2025 10:30am
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As ever, lots of great information here - thank guys much appreciated
I need to reads through and try to understand some of it
The "soft start" is an interesting option - i actually have a soft start unit here at home that i never got around to fitting onto my AC system (at home, not the cabin), but not sure if that would work or not
Another question
This system upgrade needs to be able to run my well, or my wife may kill me!!
So............would the EG4 12000XP be a better option?
Clearly that has a massive amount of power and may be overkill for the cabin........but if it runs the well, i would definitely look at that as an option
Specs attached
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SCSJeff
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2025 11:52am
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My .02...
Start with the 6000XP. If it has trouble (ie: dimming lights or just overloads), you can always add a 2nd in parallel.
Note: Battery capacity/amps should be large enough to handle the surge too... If the voltage dips too much on the batteries, it can cause the Inverter to go into low voltage shutdown. (which can be confusing at first and cause you to think it is an overload on the inverter)
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travellerw
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2025 12:14pm
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Quoting: zorro Another question This system upgrade needs to be able to run my well, or my wife may kill me!! So............would the EG4 12000XP be a better option? Clearly that has a massive amount of power and may be overkill for the cabin........but if it runs the well, i would definitely look at that as an option
So LRA is that maximum amount of current the pump can draw IF the rotor is completely stalled (think seized). Due to the design (number of windings, magnets, ect) it simply cannot draw more. It also can only draw LRA current for a short period until it over heats and burns the windings.
However, inrush can be over LRA (for miliseconds), but only in certain situations. Situations that are unlikely to happen with a deep well pump, even with a high head pressure.
So, IMHO you will be fine with the 6000XP. However if you want to know for sure, I would reach out to EG4. They have a technical support number and I have been told they answer it. They can give you an answer for %100.
On another note, that pump has a built in capacitor, but it not soft start. You could install a soft start! People on the solar forum have reported positive results with this product on compressors (with much bigger motors than your deep well pump).
https://www.amazon.com/Hyper-Engineering-5-7-Ton-Residential/dp/B0CDZ7G9HY/ref=sr_1_3 ?crid=10HERV42F7UB5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3DrQdLqD3bGmC8NDfBpZX9q-T02gdBbhS55244Avdjf2DNdB tto5LpaI45ais4qxpxIectmuK2gnxZLR3fqYWglvxAkqyH17Xg5btroGe_eHi8Lvt8TVyCO5e0ViTDOpF6UZV oVVAxbnffQuBmtg7w.F2ahf3WsDHV30-lw5ujrX6WNIp94E5dPPEKGX9okeZw&dib_tag=smacab-20&keywords=hyp er+engineering+softstart+module&qid=1737307210&sprefix=hyper+engineering+softstart+mo dule%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-3
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Steve_S
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2025 03:27pm - Edited by: Steve_S
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Your 6000XP should handle the well pump "as-is" but would certainly be happier with a Softstart module which controls (prevents) the surge.
IMPORTANT POINT that many do not appreciate.
The Idle (No Load) power consumption and StandBy (powersave/eco mode) power consumption on an AIO is higher than on a NON-AIO type Inverter/Charger unit. The relative sizing (Watt Output) has an effect on power consumption as well. HF's typically has a higher Idle (no-load) and Standby consumption while a Low Frequency has minimal consumption in these conditions.
The main reason I went with Samlex Inverter/Charger (Not AIO) and independent SCC's is because I am seriously off the grid and every watt/amp counts. My Samlex is 98% Efficient (AIO's usually top out at 88-92%). In idle (non-eco) it uses 7W and in standard use only 11W. Just enough to light an LED bulb ! May not seem a big deal, but after 10 days of 24hr consumption it does add up.
Some of the Most Frugal devices for operational consumption are made by Victron as well as for efficiency as they are all typically above 95% efficient.
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travellerw
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2025 05:06pm
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Quoting: Steve_S The main reason I went with Samlex Inverter/Charger (Not AIO) and independent SCC's is because I am seriously off the grid and every watt/amp counts. My Samlex is 98% Efficient (AIO's usually top out at 88-92%). In idle (non-eco) it uses 7W and in standard use only 11W. Just enough to light an LED bulb ! May not seem a big deal, but after 10 days of 24hr consumption it does add up.
Its also important to point out that the efficiency numbers are quoted at close to max load! So having a GIANT inverter and only sipping power from it most of the time is really inefficient.
and yes it really adds up. I had a cheap off brand MPPT that was an absolute pig for idle power once the sun went down. I think it drew like 30-40W just sitting there.
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zorro
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2025 05:27pm - Edited by: zorro
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Agreed - that is an issue with these AIO units - i think the 6000XP has an idle draw of 50W, from what i have read
The 12000XP seems to be 50-70W idle draw
Stev S - that Samlex Inverter/Charger - is that able to handle to 240V well pump or is it 120V only?
I actually have a soft start in front of me that i purchased for my ACX unit that I never used -
Its a 110/240V Unit
https://shorturl.at/ORzoI
with my VERY limited knowledge, no ideas if that would work with the well pump or not.........??
Probably need to contact the manufacturer for clarification
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Steve_S
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2025 05:48pm
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Quoting: travellerw I had a cheap off brand MPPT that was an absolute pig for idle power once the sun went down.
Yes, I've seen this with pretty much all Tier-2 & Tier-3 (Value Grade) SCC's. I made a choice & spent teh bucks on Midnite Classics 200 & 150 which are a tad dated at this point in time but they are super good and I don't need large arrays to get serious charging.
The C-200 is attached to an Array of 8 panels. 4S2P using Canadian Solar 260W, for 2080W. It provides 200VDC and enough amperage to charge at 70A.
The C-150 is attached to an Array of 6 Panels. Q-Cell 395's in 2S3P for 2370W. It provides 150VDC and 92A Charge.
162A Charging helps top off my 52kWh Bank quite nicely without a lot of panels (saving$$$) and with 2 Tier-1 Quality Controllers that are near indestructible.
AIO SCC's rarely put out a lot and "need" huge arrays. The 6000XP & even the 12000XP SCC's put out less that 40A each for a total of 80A Max and worst of all, they are between Tier-2 & 3 for capabilties and low consumption. They also can't handle Over Voltage (HyperVOC in Midnite speak) when operating with Cold solar Panels or during high summer peak generation that can overvolt the output from arrays. Doesn't take much to cook these. You do get what you pay for.
Victron handles a bit of Overvolt but it's not the same and they can't burn off excess if/when it happens. They did set their specs & requirements up to prevent it IF people actually follow their guidelines.
BTW: Was offered a Super Amazing deal from my supplier on QCell 600W Monofacials and I agonized over that cause I could do something with that Ohhboy... But those monsters are HUGE ! 1-1/2 size of a 410W panel. Not anything a single individual could manhandle !! LOL... I don't believe those were ever offered in the US. Bifacial yes but not the Mono's.
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zorro
Member
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# Posted: 5 Nov 2025 03:16pm - Edited by: zorro
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So a quick update
Looks like the xp600 has a draw of around 30w in idle mode - not great but not as bad as I thought
I also contacted the company that i have an HVAC soft start sitting here for - they said they would nee to see the wiring "to the pump" for them to determine if it would work............the pump is around 300' down - so that isn't possible
The other good news - Amazon appears to have a soft start (different from the one from the one travellerW mentions above) and from what i can tell, it is incredibly easy to install - literally 3 wires in from the pressure switch and then 3 wires in to the existing breaker box
So soft start looks like the way to go to help this I think?
Amazon Soft Start..........
https://shorturl.at/uOYwq
https://softstartusa.com/products/softstartwellpump
Only concern - zero reviews at this stage??
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Steve_S
Member
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# Posted: 6 Nov 2025 07:05am
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I've not seen a Soft-Start system like that so I can't comment on it specifically.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 6 Nov 2025 04:56pm
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Quoting: zorro So soft start looks like the way to go to help this I think?
Personally I would start without it as I'm pretty sure you won't need it.
If you do need it, then its a going to be a risk if you can't find any reviews. I'm sure it will work initially, but who knows what quality of components they used and its longevity. Pretty big investment if it dies in 1-2 years.
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SCSJeff
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# Posted: 11 Nov 2025 09:59am
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I found one YouTube review on that Soft-Start. It worked, but... only cut the surge by about 10%... Not, the claimed 40% they are advertising
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zorro
Member
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# Posted: 11 Nov 2025 03:07pm
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Oh do you have a link to the video - i haven't managed to find any review of it anywhere?
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SCSJeff
Member
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# Posted: 11 Nov 2025 08:40pm
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5e6yTIXD-o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iio57sznHzs
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zorro
Member
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# Posted: 11 Nov 2025 10:30pm
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Thanks very much for this - no idea why i did not find that!
A 6% saving is a LOT LESS than they advertise, accepting every system is different
But 40% suggested and actual 6% is a huge gap?
Though maybe that 6% makes all the difference if the margins are close?
Seems a lot of money for that 6% saving though
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