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groingo
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# Posted: 7 Nov 2025 01:16pm
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2 of 4 of my new inverters cooked themselves while pulling barely 5 amps, was thankful for the clear case which let me see number 2 was flaming inside.
The 60 amp one started smelling so I returned it for a refund, second one smelled and ignited. Needless to say all have been removed and replaced with my good old reliable non flaming PWM controllers which are doing great, one is my 14 year old Renogy!
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 7 Nov 2025 02:19pm
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Solar Controllers or Inverters ? 2 Very Different things.
Make/Brand and Model please...
Link to said product to avoid if possible.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 7 Nov 2025 03:44pm
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Yes, MORE info PLS
Only thing jumping into my head is that with the cold the spike in voltage overloaded them (if scc); scc need to be sized with a cushion for intake voltage in case of spikes.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 7 Nov 2025 04:10pm
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Some advice (from someone who has done the dance).
Buy a name brand!
Victron, Midnight, Tristar, ect...
However, there is no argument that today Victron offers the best value.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 7 Nov 2025 06:27pm
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Searched Groingo's posts, found this
Found this listing on Amazon for the 40A or 60A model. POWLSOJX 20A/40A/60A MPPT Solar Controller 12V-48V Auto, 150V PV Input with DSP Chip
Posted: 22 Aug 2025 01:21pm - Edited by: groingo
Reply Quote
Got the new Bigger 40 amp Powlsojx / Shengen charge controller yesterday, fired it up this morning to my new 800 watt solar to a 60% charged battery and input immediately showed 562 watts at 51 Amps at 36.7 volts early morning partial sky....have never seen such high numbers, everything running cool now throttling down to 27 amps, am looking forward to winter now that I can grab a lot more power over less daylight hours, my problem now is all three of my LFP batteries are fully charged...what a problem to have, all charged up and nowhere to go!
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 7 Nov 2025 07:07pm
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Amazon rating 3 out of 5 stars with 7 reviews
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FishHog
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2025 07:12am
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Quoting: travellerw Buy a name brand!
This....and you just learned out why. Glad it didn't do more damage.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2025 07:45am
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To be fair my Epever BN 40a has been in service for about 3yrs expect for about 2 months where I moved it to another array. Its outputted 40a many times but never close to the 150v max. Back then victron was quite a bit more. Today there only a fet bucks more and would just get a victron.
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paulz
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2025 08:02am
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Quoting: Brettny Epever BN 40a
Ha, they still have those? I have 2 going right now for years longer. Along with the MT50 remote controllers. Never a problem. They seem better than cheap junk, pretty heavy, but I’ll go Victron if needed.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2025 11:43am
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Quoting: Brettny To be fair my Epever BN 40a has been in service for about 3yrs expect for about 2 months where I moved it to another array. Its outputted 40a many times but never close to the 150v max.
Years ago I did a teardown and review which I posted on cruisers forum. They are actually a pretty good design, but don't use the best components (poor quality caps).
They have a very poor algorithm though. Especially in clouds. So poor that enough cloud cover will actually make them reboot.
The longevity is also a gamble. Out of the 5 I purchased for use on my boat, only 3 survived the 2 years I used them.
But like the 2 of you said.... Victron is only a little more so no reason to go with EPEVER these days.
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paulz
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2025 02:59pm
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Quoting: travellerw have a very poor algorithm though. Especially in clouds. So poor that enough cloud cover will actually make them reboot
Hmm, maybe time to try a Victron in my tree shaded area. Got a part number or are they easy enough to pick out?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2025 08:58pm
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Choose by, (1) the max amps output and (2) the maximum Voc of the pv array, plus a cold weather factor of up to 25% (probably not much of a concern for you).
A victron 150/35 would be okay up to 150 VDC input and 35 amps output.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2025 09:02pm
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Quoting: paulz Hmm, maybe time to try a Victron in my tree shaded area. Got a part number or are they easy enough to pick out?
Thats the beauty of Victron. The model number is 2 numbers. Like 100/30.. The first number is the max solar input voltage, the second number is the max amps to the batts.
Just match the voltage and amperage to your array.
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paulz
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2025 09:18pm
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Easy enough that I could figure it out!Here’s my main array, I have about twice this much scattered around. Maybe half will get sun for a few hours a day. And here’s the specs. I have them 3 in series but could change with much effort if it would help substantially. What do you think Trav?
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Nobadays
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# Posted: 9 Nov 2025 09:40am
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Quoting: travellerw Just match the voltage and amperage to your array.
And... leave some head room! The voltage input is critical, if you go over that then bad things happen! The amps, as stated are output amps but staying under that number on the input side is just wise. My understanding is the excess amps will "clip" but why take a chance.
My own experience has shown on really cold clear days voltage/watt/amp output of PV panels will often be above the rated output and that's why you want to leave headroom. Design using the VOC (voltage open circuit) which will be the higher voltage number, and ISC (short circuit current) the higher amperage number. Stay under those.
Oh... and a second on using "tier one" equipment! First you don't want to burn your cabin down, and secondly aren't you there to relax... not to continually fiddle with the solar power system!
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travellerw
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# Posted: 9 Nov 2025 12:34pm
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Quoting: paulz Easy enough that I could figure it out!Here’s my main array, I have about twice this much scattered around. Maybe half will get sun for a few hours a day. And here’s the specs. I have them 3 in series but could change with much effort if it would help substantially. What do you think Trav?
Ok, so 5 strings in series of 3 panels?
That would mean a max voltage (open circuit) of 116.58V
With a max amps of 44.1A
A 150/45 would be the right choice. Although a bit of a waste as I'm pretty sure your array will never come close to those numbers.
If I was trying to squeeze every watt, then I would reconfigure the panels. For that array, with all those shadows 100% parallel would be the most optimized. However, I don't think it would be worth it as you would need new wire to carry the extra amps.
If I had some extra time and money I would reconfigure to 2 panels in series with 7 strings. Make sure 2 broken panels are together, then remove one broken panel completely. I would use 2 controllers. One 100/50 and one 100/30. Even with one less panel I'm pretty sure this config would perform better than the current config.
However, you know your current config works fine. The simplest and cheapest solution would be 150/45. Make sure you get the SmartSolar version as it has built in Bluetooth.
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paulz
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# Posted: 9 Nov 2025 01:13pm - Edited by: paulz
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Thanks Trav. Let me study that and look at my wiring to the cabin, about 50’ away. As I mentioned there’s another set on the back side, but all are 3 in series.
But even with same wiring I’ll see an improvement with a Victron?
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groingo
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# Posted: 9 Nov 2025 05:18pm
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paulz, You and I have the same problem...trees.
My main aray is 2000 watts and fixed position, so I grab what I can when the sky is right but on decent days there are places where you can get a couple hours of exposure which also changes with the season so, I figured why not go where the exposure is so I hinged a 300 watt panel onto a garden wagon, with old cooler for weatherproof battery and charge controller storage with option to charge in parallel and presto, can charge two batteries individually or one in parallel and if a storm is coming just lay the panels flat, so far so good!
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 9 Nov 2025 06:58pm
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Paul, it sure wouldnt hurt if you could get the lower end of the array(s) high enough that the siding fallen leaves, etc could slide/wash off too.
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paulz
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# Posted: 9 Nov 2025 08:37pm - Edited by: paulz
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I blow them off once a week. Right now everything is covered in redwood neeedles, comes down like rain. That driveway is normally black road base. Angled any steeper and the hill would block.
Here you can see the guest shack just behind the cabin roof, where the array is on the other sides. The sun rises to the back side and travels above the hillside around the other side. Between the trees and hillside it’s a battle. It’s a bit better down the hill at the flat by my shop but not much. Forest everywhere.
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paulz
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# Posted: 10 Nov 2025 10:47am
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Quoting: groingo so I hinged a 300 watt panel onto a garden wagon, with
Ha, great minds! I have a garden wagon with a couple old panels I wheel around to charge the old vehicle batts.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 10 Nov 2025 01:20pm
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Do you get the panels out of the box so the lower cells aren't being blocked? If not you are not getting the production you could.
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paulz
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# Posted: 10 Nov 2025 05:04pm
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Box comes out to unblock. Not a big deal, just a battery trickle charger.
Took this photo this morning at my gate. There was a house that came down in 1966. The foundation is my shop now. The place was solid trees, they cleared the area in front out for the house. Works for me! The cabin is just above in the red circle. It’s the back of my property line or I would have gone higher. Good build spot down below on the flat except for all the noisy traffic going by.
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gcrank1
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# Posted: 10 Nov 2025 06:14pm
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Quite a site Paul! It is truly amazing that you get the solar production you do.
By the normal site analysis for solar Im sure yours would be considered a poor candidate yet you made it work 
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paulz
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# Posted: 10 Nov 2025 07:22pm
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Thanks. To do over again: across the road on the other side of the valley are the power poles, and the property on my side bordering me already has a power pole with line running across. All I would need I guess is a drop box on a post on my property.
But at the time I bought it, like many of us, I just figured I’d park a trailer out here, which I did for first year or two. Later the solar came about with a cheap HF kit, and on that went. Couple benefits: no power bill like back at the grid house every month, and then when the neighbors complain that the power is out, I light up the cabin like a Christmas tree.
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paulz
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# Posted: 19 Nov 2025 05:59pm - Edited by: paulz
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Got my new Victron SCC hooked up to my old array down at the shop and some spare LFPs. No amps in yet…
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travellerw
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# Posted: 20 Nov 2025 08:27pm - Edited by: travellerw
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Quoting: paulz Got my new Victron SCC hooked up to my old array down at the shop and some spare LFPs. No amps in yet…
Solar controller is in "Float" mode. It thinks the batteries are stuffed. Since you aren't drawing anything, its not putting anything in or showing any amps!
Check your settings and make sure they are right for LFP batteries!
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paulz
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2025 07:18am
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Quoting: travellerw Check your settings and make sure they are right for LFP batteries!
I finally scrolled down and found the Lfp in battery settings. Is that the only setting I need to do?
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travellerw
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2025 10:13pm - Edited by: travellerw
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If you click the gear in the upper right hand corner, you will see the settings (as well as the ability to update). Standard LFP settings should be good to get you started.
Look for the setting that says "Battery Preset", change it to "selext Preset" then select "Smart Lithium"
With LFP, if they are full and you are not pulling anything, the controller won't show anything going in since LFP is so efficient and has such a low self drain! Pull the battery down a bunch and see how the panels perform.
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travellerw
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2025 10:22pm - Edited by: travellerw
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P.S. if you don't want to phaf with the app, you could always just turn the switch on the controller. Look for the little white rotary switch on the controller and turn it to 7 for LiFePO4.
However, if you already changed the setting in the app, it will ignore that (since you changed the setting from "rotary switch" to "Selec preset").
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