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Small Cabin Forum / Cabin Construction / Easy and Cheap Log Cabin
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Stoney
Member
# Posted: 29 Apr 2019 12:59
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My email is braker1@bellsouth.net

Woodscavenger
Member
# Posted: 12 May 2019 14:53
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Shout out to Stoney!!

Had a blast reading this thread. Amazing almost 10 years running. Lots fo great info. I think I am going to use this style for a single pitch (shed roof) cabin. Planning on a 16x24 with a partial 8 or 12’ loft. Heigh of the walls probably 16’ front and 10’ back.

I like the pseudo log look and the simplicity of the linking “log” structures. I also like the look of open timbers and raw lumber rounded logs so was planning on doing a few things.

1) On the interior I am planning on cutting 1/4 rounds depending on the tree diameter and placing those in the corners with liquid nails and timber framing screws screwed in from the outside. I think this wil look cool, seal up any corner air leaks, stabilize the structure.

2) Along with corner posts I will likely put a 1/2 round or D log about very 8 feet along the walls. I will place a D log on top of those which now gives me a super simple support for my loft floor joists.

3) I am thinking about making my cabin in modules as my need for more space changes. I think the “fingers” that stick out. Past the exterior corners could be used to add on in a modular way. Instead of glueing in the additional 2” trim piece under the finger I would just use a couple of screws. Then a year or two from now I can easily remove the trim pieces and now I can slide a new linking log into that space and extend the wall. My exterior wall of the cabin now becomes and interior wall at the new room is added. Using another 1/4 round or D log in the corner should easily strengthen that connection and seal any drafts from that connection.

Can somebody blow holes in my theories or ideas?

Stoney
Member
# Posted: 12 May 2019 15:24
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This sounds like a pretty good plan. I never considered the option of adding on to the ends.
Good thinking.

Woodscavenger
Member
# Posted: 12 May 2019 23:14
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Thanks for the reply Stoney. I have seen this design bounced around another forum. What is the real world experience in terms of heat loss/heat capture and R values. Some people really hammer it but I want to know what the real experience is.

Thanks

Stoney
Member
# Posted: 13 May 2019 07:21
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This is one of the most difficult topics for most people to understand. You can't really think of log cabins in terms of R values. Log cabins for the most part work on terms of thermal inertia or thermal mass. That is the logs absorb the heat or cold and then release it into the air when the heat source is no longer available or on.
Some of the log cabin builders provide an explanation on their web sites.
The biggest culprit for keeping a cabin warm is air infiltration through gaps in the chinking or other areas. I think that my process has addressed this issue better than most.
I send booklets to Northern Canada and Northern Alaska and I haven't had any of those people even ask about R value. Of course you would still need some insulation in the ceiling or attic area.
I hope that this answers your question.

johnniepistol
Member
# Posted: 28 Jul 2019 02:45 - Edited by: johnniepistol
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Stoney Where can i purchase your booklet?

Stoney
Member
# Posted: 28 Jul 2019 06:27
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I can still be reached at:

braker1@bellsouth.net

Blaze
Member
# Posted: 31 Jul 2019 11:18
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Hey Stoney,

I am very intrigued with your style of lumber log construction.
Could you tell me about your ebook that you are offering for sale? How many pages and what is the content? Does it include certain engineering drawings for possible building inspector inquiries?

I am a builder and I hope to build one of these one day for my family.

Would their be a benefit to using pressure treated lumber on the outside 1/3 of the lumber logs? Would there be added protection with the pt lumber on the outside? Then let it dry out a season, and treat it with stain and deck sealer?

Also what about adding a 4" solid concrete block sill or solid concrete sill under the wall perimeter in order to reduce moisture wicking into the bottom logs for further durability?

Im just spit balling and trying to enhance this design for lower maintenance and further durability.

I like the idea of fastening and gluing the logs together with timber panhead screws that are coated as well, for a clean and tight fastening. Also, I wander about a better chinking solution than construction adhesive due to its characteristic of becoming brittle over time, maybe substitute an acrylic based caulking, that would have flexibility through the drying cycle.

I love this idea and by no means am downing it, just trying to figure out a way to help its longevity and viability for people who want a durable and cozy lumber log home.

Blaze
Member
# Posted: 31 Jul 2019 12:14 - Edited by: Blaze
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After reading others post in regards to water intrusion, I feel abother solution would be a modified vertical log construction with battens covering the seams and caulked. You could build a keyed in sill plated to tongue in the vertical logs and the doors and windows could be framed in with headers and cripples to support them, or just key the headers in and have them overlap a foot or so into the log next to the doors or windows. Just a modified idea.

alamodwc
Member
# Posted: 1 Aug 2019 11:51
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Stoney
Do you still have any of your fabricated log plans for sale? Have you changed anything since the first design? Thanks.

Stoney
Member
# Posted: 1 Aug 2019 13:54
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Blaze,
There are several issues with the vertical log idea. First, it no longer looks like a log cabin. Second, it would be more difficult for a novice builder and third the corners may not be strong enough to support the roof.
When it comes to your idea of using PT lumber on the outside you will dramatically increase the cost for very little benefit. If you have a two foot overhang on the roof then water should not be a major factor. Log cabins have lasted over 100 years with a roof like this.
The 4" concrete block is alright if you feel more comfortable about it but a good sill seal will also work to prevent moisture wicking. A concrete block is still porous and can wick moisture.
Your caulking for chinking material should be a the minimum be rated for external use on the outside. That's not as important on the interior.

tyiols
Member
# Posted: 11 Aug 2019 13:29
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It never amazes me how ingenious people can be.... although it never seems like my ideas are that good. Nice looking idea.

nagg33
Member
# Posted: 8 Oct 2019 13:47
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I'm just curious if anyone that has previously built one of these cabins is still active on the site and willing to post current up-to-date pictures, and other info (do's/don't-s). Maybe even some inside shots

reece11395
Member
# Posted: 7 Dec 2019 16:59
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What brand of constructive adhesive (Liquid Nails or Loctite? have you used and how much you applied to the boards to create strong bond?

Stoney
Member
# Posted: 7 Dec 2019 19:11
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The last building that was built I used Titebond III. I just put it in squeeze bottles and used a circular motion to apply it to the full length of the boards.

Jhorne12
Member
# Posted: 27 Dec 2019 21:24
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Where can I purchase Stoney ebook.

KL28936
Member
# Posted: 12 Feb 2020 13:03
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Just wanted to vouch for Stoney's booklet. I purchased it today and he had emailed me it in PDF format within 20 minutes or so.

Every thing is easy to read, super clear photos and you couldn't ask for more in regards to the information on there.

Exactly what I was hoping for and he is super quick to respond.

I emailed him using the address he has been posting in this thread.

This one: braker1@bellsouth.net

KelVarnsen
Member
# Posted: 12 Feb 2020 13:27
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Quoting: KL28936
Just wanted to vouch for Stoney's booklet. I purchased it today and he had emailed me it in PDF format within 20 minutes or so.


I just had the same experience a week or so ago. Very good.

MidnightMaker
Member
# Posted: 15 Feb 2020 12:52
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Hey Stoney, love this, especially since it's been going for 10 years! I'm planning on buying your booklet next weekend. Great idea and info.

I'm thinking about shaping the outside corners a bit to give it a more classical look, leaving the insides square.

I'm also thinking about seeing if I can do dovetailed ends instead of butt & pass. I'm also thinking about trimming off the center on the tops of the "logs" where they jut out and filling in the gap on the underside.

The idea of being able to tie into the exposed ends of the butt and pass corners is also very intriguing. I'd probably want to tie the addition to the main house with something a bit more structural, but it's still a great feature. I just registered to post this. Thanks!

Stoney
Member
# Posted: 7 Feb 2021 10:26
Reply 


It's hard to believe that we are still going strong after nearly 10 years. I would like to thank everyone for the kind words and the support from this forum.

For all of you who have purchased my booklet or have built using this method please take photo's and post them for others to see. Many just need to have the reassurance that others have succeeded in this endeavor.

willywilly2020
Member
# Posted: 8 Feb 2021 00:51
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Cool to see this back up at the top. I wonder with the spiking lumber prices if this method become financially inaccessible for folks...

gcrank1
Member
# Posted: 8 Feb 2021 10:07
Reply 


I was letting my mind run loose last night and this jumped in front.....
Sandwich sheet exp strips between the boards and use strategically placed 'tongues' along the run. This wouldnt be a complete thermal break due to the tongues but would have more R's that not, same look inside and out.

Champ7ac
Member
# Posted: 8 Feb 2021 16:30
Reply 


Stoney- You had mentioned before that in an earlier post, that you did not recommend using rough cut lumber.
Any suggestions on fastening, gluing, or alternatives that could be used, that would allow the use of rough cut?
I have access to rough cut lumber, and it would certainly help with keeping my costs down.

Stoney
Member
# Posted: 8 Feb 2021 16:51
Reply 


Thank you for this question. The reason that I did not recommend rough sawn is that you would need extra glue because of the course texture. I suppose that it might work but I wouldn't guarantee that it would hold over the long term. If you are determined to try this method then I would recommend using about 30% more glue to be on the safe side.

KelVarnsen
Member
# Posted: 18 Feb 2021 10:33
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Quoting: Woodweavil
My question are all the nail hole inside and out. They are not very aesthetically pleasing to the eye. Has anyone else thought of away to tackle this issue?


I share this same concern. Does anyone have a solution. Some of the photos of finished projects that have been stained look good but none of the pictures are close enough to see what the nail holes look like.

Stoney
Member
# Posted: 18 Feb 2021 11:16
Reply 


You could sink the nails with a nail punch and then fill the hole with wood filler.

DutchDude
Member
# Posted: 26 Aug 2021 17:39 - Edited by: DutchDude
Reply 


Quoting: Stoney
You could sink the nails with a nail punch and then fill the hole with wood filler.

You could just drive the nail 1/8" further with the nail gun .

Also, you just repeated the circles with the glue. You get a much, much stronger bond if you roll it on in a thin layer.

He anyone considered butyl tape for water/wind/insect proofing?

Going to build a 12x16 rental cabin in the spring. Looking forward to this project now!

scesposito
Member
# Posted: 21 Sep 2021 22:45
Reply 


Hi, is Stoney ebook still available? Where can I purchase it?
Thank you

Stoney
Member
# Posted: 22 Sep 2021 05:02
Reply 


The booklet is still available at braker1@bellsouth.net

alfr
Member
# Posted: 31 Oct 2021 13:00
Reply 


Stoney
Is your booklet still available? If so, I'd like to buy one depending on the price. I'm on a limited income. Thanks

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