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hakalugi
Member
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2012 10:59
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interesting - i wasn't thinking about the weight on the inside side of things since to me the 1st floor deck (built about 4' to 2' off grade) would actually bear the weight of these stoney-walls, which of course is attached to the posts. see attached.
i guess there would be a 'moment' generated on the post below the 2x decking area, trying to "bow them out", but no different than a load bearing 2x4 or 2x6 wall that bears on a beam/stringer that is lab bolted to the outside of a post, which then tries to "bow in the post" below it's attachment point(s).
yes, the half-lapped innermost board would be face nailed into the posts. the 1.5"x1.5" post tongues would be glued and screwed into the posts. the 'wind load' (wind blowing against the wide face of a wall) would, until the stone exterior is done, using later footers, would transfer to the 1.5"x1.5" tongue and face nailing. the posts themselves will have plenty of shear support via the loft floor and interior walls. so the hmmmm is these "infill walls" being strong enough from wind until the stone is built up. I guess I could alternate "butt joints at post" and "not" every other course. I couldn't pre-build the "not" courses though, seems like i'd have to place the 2x8 that spanned on the inside of the post after the fact and glue, nail, clamp in place. but that would make it stronger.
i just sent you payment so i'll look forward to seeing the plan book.
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hakalugi
Member
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2012 11:15
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re did attachment for clarity
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2012 11:29
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hakalugi,
I see how you are doing it now. It should work. I agree that alternating the butt joints at the posts would be a good idea.
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hakalugi
Member
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# Posted: 18 Dec 2012 14:13
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10-4. obviously:
1) i cannot spell "lag" (bolts), seems i wrote it wrong twice above
2) the middle 2x8 in the Stoney wall is not shown protruding higher than the others, it should be making a horizontal 1.5" tongue, but that obscured the inner 2x8 on this view so i dropped it flush with the inner/outer ones.
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Tom W
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2012 07:54
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Awesome Idea...really got my head turning now.
I would have to do 5 ply to get a decent r value for winter, 2x8 is really 1.5x7.25
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2012 08:14
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Tom,
I suggest that you do a little research on "Solid Wood Walls". There are many commercial log homes available that are only five inches thick. Depending where you live, you may find that three plys will be sufficient.
Many log home manufacturers also have information on the energy efficiency of their buildings.
The decision is totally yours.
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Tom W
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2012 08:33
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I am going crazy thinking of this now.
Your right most kits are 6" thick, with upgrades to 8"
I think I would use 4 2"x8" and a 2"x8" sheet of foam insulation, to create my 5 ply.
For a 28'x28' cabin the 8x8 I can get will cost me about $15G to get, I can make the 5 ply logs like you with a layer of 2" styro for a total cost of about $7000.
Then there is the look of all the nails...... It is just a cabin though....
What to do...waht to do.
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2012 09:25
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Tom,
The fourth layer of 2" by 8" would be fine. I recommend adding this layer on the inside after constructing the walls using my method. You can use this layer to cover wiring if you wish.
As far as the two inch foam, I have some reservations. If you sandwich the foam within the wall logs it could make the wall unstable. If you put the foam on the inside or the outside then it will have to be covered.
Nails will not hold much if driven into foam.
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littlesalmon4
Member
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2012 18:13 - Edited by: littlesalmon4
Reply
When it comes to wood thickness check around to see what is actually needed. You have to make sure that when it is fully heated the log is warm all the way through. You will lose all little heat this way but the log will also give you heat back on the inside. If the log never gets warm all the way through it will constantly steal your heat to try and warm itself.Kind of like a heat sink. Research I have done says for the coldest climate you would want 8" thick logs. In the Yukon we have regular stretches of -40. My logs are 6". Once you heat the frost out of the logs it is toasty warm and does not require much wood.
Clear as mud.... I thought so.....
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littlesalmon4
Member
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2012 18:18
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This may explain it a little better
http://pointsofcompass.blogspot.ca/2006/04/r-value-of-log-homes.html
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gijoe2222
Member
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2012 04:47
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Dear sir can please provide me a place i can get your ebook to build lumber log structures i am vet trying to build me a low cost housing , i am very interested in build a cabin this way have a great day looking forward to hearing from you sign gijoe
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ubuntucat
Member
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# Posted: 23 Dec 2012 08:37 - Edited by: ubuntucat
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Stoney
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Sonja
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# Posted: 5 Feb 2013 12:17
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I was looking for the book on e-bay but I can't find it. 
How can I get a copy????
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 5 Feb 2013 13:16
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Sonja,
You can contact me at my email.
braker1@bellsouth.net
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 5 Feb 2013 14:41
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I agree with everyone that this is a unique method with a nice appearance, and has the advantage of ease of construction, important for small cabin builds. MtDon is quite correct, though, about the insulation issue.
Another potential difficulty with this may be meeting seismic requirements. The statement that this method does not fit the building codes is not really true, since anything that can be engineered can meet the codes. I have no idea what engineering would be involved with this to meet lateral movement strength requirements. It looks, offhand, like there might be issues with hinging in the mid point of a wall, that is, a spline joint acting like a hinge, at the bottom cord of the gable triangle, or 'top plate' line. But it's an engineering question.
I gave up on the idea of building log because:
-logs are heavy and you need a crane
-electrical and plumbing are problematic
-insulation
-bottom logs eventually rot
This method takes care of the first and forth. For elec and plumb, methods adopted by standard log builders should apply here, along with this method giving easy means of putting wire in the wall while building (but not later). If insulation and seismic are not issues, looks viable to me.
Remember that log construction in general is more prone to rot issues if not maintained properly. The horizontal joints will hold water if not sealed. Log construction drains this water along the curve of the log, this method provides a ledge for water to rest if allowed to get in. Easy to prevent with caulk, but must be maintained.
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 5 Feb 2013 15:15
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It is not my intention to argue the advantages of this method. My intentions are to offer this to whom ever finds this method attractive and useful for their purpose.
I believe that you are comparing apples to oranges. This method would be prone to some of the problems that any traditional log cabin would encounter. However if you don't like log cabins now then you wouldn't like my method either.
With this method, a crane is not needed to handle the logs and the electrical and plumbing are no different than in any other log building.
Seismic requirements are not a factor in many parts of this country so that is why I stress the importance of speaking with the local building codes office.
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Dirtroad Johnson
Member
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# Posted: 2 Mar 2013 14:05
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Stoney
Stoney, Today is the 1st time that I've been on this small cabin forum & I registered after browsing around. Man your post on the cheap & easy cabin was very interested. My wife & I are wanting to build like a 24' x 40' & we need to get by as economical as possible. We're retired & our income is about 50% less than what we use to have. I'm not a good carpenter so I don't understand all of the language but I'm really interested & would love to get someone experienced to help me & that could understand how you did this. What can I do to get the info from you on how to do this? Thanks for sharing & for any advice on this. Dirtroad Johnson
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 2 Mar 2013 15:17
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Dirtroad,
Just look back about three posts and you will find my email address.
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Hinezy
Member
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2013 20:07
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As I just purchased my property and can't afford to build quite yet, I'll be looking more into this style cabin in a year or two. I have a few questions, when you say the shell cost approximately $3000, I assume that's not a sealed and weatherproof shell. How much would you estimate it would cost to have it sealed up? My next question is what type of flooring options would you suggest if it had to be up on footers? I'm in a flood zone so I need to be up about 3 to 4 feet.
Thanks
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2013 20:41 - Edited by: Just
Reply
Hinezy
just a thought , if you are not going to build for a bit , maybe you could dig a pond .pile all the soil in one area and let it settle till you are ready to build . a cabin always looks better if it is closer to the soil it sits on imo .I did this with my old trailer sight,and it has worked great .the place is in a flood plane that floods every year about this time.lots of times i,ve gone to the place in a boat.but the cabin is always high and dry.the soil should settle for 2 or thee years before you build . A pond is a great addion to a cabin sight.you can dig a big pond for 1000$ you will never regreat it.. I beleave there is a thread on this sight about cottage ponds ,should give it a look!!
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Hinezy
Member
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2013 21:15
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I'd love to do that but unfortunately I'm on a small lot. 50 X 100!
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 5 Mar 2013 21:54
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they are building some nice small homes on posts in New Orleans I think there are some on u tube or put out a fill wanted sign .good luck just
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 6 Mar 2013 07:29
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The walls for my 24' x 35' building was about $3000. To finish it with the trusses and roofing ran about another $3000.
If I were going to build it on a footing I would construct the first course of logs and then build a floor within these as in regular stick built construction.
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Goatman
Member
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# Posted: 30 Mar 2013 11:36
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Hmm interesting here.
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Dirtroad Johnson
Member
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# Posted: 9 May 2013 15:17
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Stoney, Getting a little closer to starting a 1 bedroom cabin; might need some tips. Thanks, Dirtroad
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Ontario lakeside
Member
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# Posted: 9 May 2013 22:59
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I got a about 100+ 2x4s for free from a theater stage. all screwed together and in perfect shape. Im going to build a shed for all our dock stuff using this method. I will take some photos when Im done.
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thestartupman
Member
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2013 11:13
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Hi Stoney, I just joined this site after reading your post. I like your ideas, and have sent you a email requesting info. I do have a question I would like to throw out there for others with more experience. Has anyone given any thought to using a sawmill to create your lumber for the project? You could make them truly 2" think, or could even go a little thicker if a person was to want more mass. I know shrinkage would be something that a person would have to consider. Any and all thoughts on this would be appreciated.
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thestartupman
Member
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# Posted: 5 Jun 2013 11:18 - Edited by: thestartupman
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Sorry double post
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thestartupman
Member
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# Posted: 6 Jun 2013 09:45
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Here is one more thought on a modification of the design. If a person was not wanting to see the nails on the inside, or the outside of the walls. What would happen if two of the 2X8's where screwed together from the inside, then the last 2X8 was applied with long nails. Do you think this would hurt the strength of the walls? I know it would add more labor to the process, but might help give it more of a log look. Again, just another idea.
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Stoney
Member
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# Posted: 4 Jul 2013 09:57
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Besides the shrinkage issue of using sawmill lumber you would also have to deal with the adhesive not bonding well with rough sawn lumber. When it comes to the nails and screws, you would need to have that looked at by an engineer regarding spacing and the strength.
Long screws would also add extra cost to the building.
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